My baby's tucked in for the winter now
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From: Chicago
I've heard the the fuel stabilizers are not so important any more with modern gas?
Holy cow Shell, everyone gives me a hard time for only having 1700 miles, but you are right there with me. Although I did buy mine last Dec 1.....
Holy cow Shell, everyone gives me a hard time for only having 1700 miles, but you are right there with me. Although I did buy mine last Dec 1.....
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From: Dillsburg, PA
Fuel stabilizers (otherwise known as dry gas) just prevent your gas lines from freezing. Any moisture in the tank can freeze.
The best medicine is to keep a full tank, with a bottle of dry gas in it. I always am sure to run the car a little after putting the bottle in, so it gets into the gas lines.
Pouring that in before the fuel is my usual routine. (Every other tankful, in the winter.)
No particular brand. Heet is fine, nice and cheap. Less than $1 at Wal-Mart or just about any convenience store in the winter.
The best medicine is to keep a full tank, with a bottle of dry gas in it. I always am sure to run the car a little after putting the bottle in, so it gets into the gas lines.
Pouring that in before the fuel is my usual routine. (Every other tankful, in the winter.)
No particular brand. Heet is fine, nice and cheap. Less than $1 at Wal-Mart or just about any convenience store in the winter.
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From: Waukesha
Actually the fuel stabilizer (Stabil, or other generic equivalent) is not the same as "dry gas." The latter is simply alcohol which, as we all know from experience, mixes with water. The resultant mixture is combustable, thus keeping water from collecting at the bottom of a fuel tank, freezing, and blocking the flow of fuel to the engine.
Stabil is a petroleum product which prevents the decay of gasoline into lacquer over time. The insides of any engine do not enjoy lacquer coating them. I do not know whether modern gasoline is any better. But all experts I know definitely recommend Stabil for any fuel likely to spend more than one month in your tank.
Stabil is a petroleum product which prevents the decay of gasoline into lacquer over time. The insides of any engine do not enjoy lacquer coating them. I do not know whether modern gasoline is any better. But all experts I know definitely recommend Stabil for any fuel likely to spend more than one month in your tank.
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From: Waukesha
Two other recommendations for winter storage:
On a concrete floor, there is often moisture which soaks into the concrete elsewhere in the garage (like under another car that is driven in snow), and permeates through to the concrete beneath your S2000, exposing the vehicle to moisture from below. Cover with a sheet of plastic that portion of concrete over which you will park the S2000, and the humidity damage (to brake rotors, etc.) is dramatically reduced.
Experts disagree about starting the engine once a month. Some say it's better to circulate lubricant, coolant, etc. by running the engine for a while (they never define "while" but it seems to be anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes, i.e. long enough to get the temperature gauge up to warm and get the heater to put out warm air). Others point out that starting is the time when the engine suffers the greatest stress/wear/damage, and simply starting it does more harm than good. All experts agree that it would be beneficial to take it out and drive it once a month but I do not do this because of the salt on the road (my S2000 doesn't come out of hibernation until there's been at least one big rain to thoroughly wash to pavement, even if there are some warm sunny days before then!).
If the vehicle is stored for 12 months, it should definitely not be standing on the tires -- use jack stands. But if only 3-4 months, most people don't bother with stands. Somewhere in between (like 4-6 months) is anybody's guess!
On a concrete floor, there is often moisture which soaks into the concrete elsewhere in the garage (like under another car that is driven in snow), and permeates through to the concrete beneath your S2000, exposing the vehicle to moisture from below. Cover with a sheet of plastic that portion of concrete over which you will park the S2000, and the humidity damage (to brake rotors, etc.) is dramatically reduced.
Experts disagree about starting the engine once a month. Some say it's better to circulate lubricant, coolant, etc. by running the engine for a while (they never define "while" but it seems to be anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes, i.e. long enough to get the temperature gauge up to warm and get the heater to put out warm air). Others point out that starting is the time when the engine suffers the greatest stress/wear/damage, and simply starting it does more harm than good. All experts agree that it would be beneficial to take it out and drive it once a month but I do not do this because of the salt on the road (my S2000 doesn't come out of hibernation until there's been at least one big rain to thoroughly wash to pavement, even if there are some warm sunny days before then!).
If the vehicle is stored for 12 months, it should definitely not be standing on the tires -- use jack stands. But if only 3-4 months, most people don't bother with stands. Somewhere in between (like 4-6 months) is anybody's guess!
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The BikeDr.. very good recommendations. I never thought of the moisture problem, from other vehicles being stored in the garage. I can see a heated garage causing more problems than non heated, because the heat would melt the salt and grime off.
I used to store a 57 VW in the garage, actually for the whole year, drove it once or twice a year. The flat spot problem did not appear to be a problem. Anyway, I think if we do the best we can in storage prep we should be ok!
Aarons2k
I used to store a 57 VW in the garage, actually for the whole year, drove it once or twice a year. The flat spot problem did not appear to be a problem. Anyway, I think if we do the best we can in storage prep we should be ok!
Aarons2k
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From: Sheridan
My Honda dealer carries "StabilStor" and I've used it in my XR250L every winter since 1994. I fill the tank, add the "Stabilstor" and run the engine to get the stuff through the system. Then I start the engine once a month too. This seems do keep the bike's engine/carburetor free from gum.
I plan to do the same with the S2K, PLUS, I plan to drive the S2K every month. I will chance the S2K on winter roads where I wouldn't risk riding the bike. Both are garaged together in an unheated garage. Oh yes, I bring the bike's battery inside during cold spells.
Should I bring the S2K's battery inside?
In general Sheridan and cold, dry winters and uses shale not salt on the roads.
Barry
I plan to do the same with the S2K, PLUS, I plan to drive the S2K every month. I will chance the S2K on winter roads where I wouldn't risk riding the bike. Both are garaged together in an unheated garage. Oh yes, I bring the bike's battery inside during cold spells.
Should I bring the S2K's battery inside?
In general Sheridan and cold, dry winters and uses shale not salt on the roads.
Barry