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Problems with GT3

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Old Jul 12, 2001 | 09:49 PM
  #31  
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The settings in the menu for the Traction control are for the arcade mode, not the simulation mode. You have to go into the setup for each car to turn off these "driver aids" in simulation mode by setting them to zero. How do I know this? Well I got GT3 last night, played it for a few hours, and then had to leave first thing this morning on a trip and won't get back until next week so I brought the manual along with me on the plane and read it. If I had been able to play the game like you guys, it would probably still be sitting in the package unread so I thought I would share this bit of information. Turning these aids off really helps get rid of the terminal understeer that is prevalent with them on.

As for the sensitivity of the buttons, Sunchild, you should try using the right analog stick for the acceleration and braking. It takes a little getting used to, but it should give you a similar amount of control to the DC triggers. When I started using the stick a few years ago in GT1, it really made the more powerful cars a lot easier since I could gradually roll the power on as I was exiting corners. My friend resisted at first when I tried to get him to use it, but once I started kicking his ass because of the better throttle control I had, he quickly converted. Give it a shot and see if it works better for you.

Mark
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Old Jul 12, 2001 | 10:01 PM
  #32  
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From: Gunma(aka InitialD state)
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sunchild
[B]Ok.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 12:25 AM
  #33  
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I can do just fine when holding my S2K at a certain speed. If I am at a long straightaway, I can keep it at a constant speed of 50 mph or whatever the speed I want, just by applying the right amount of pressure to the button..... And I heard somewhere that the PS2 buttons are all analog.

And for the record, SEGA SUCKS! Always has, always will.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 06:00 AM
  #34  
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Ok, it makes sense that the buttons are pressure sensitive. I checked and it works. Anyways, this game is growing on me. After driving the Mugen NSX, I can see that this game can have twitchy feel too.

I'm glad the accelerator is analog, since that means that the pedals on the wheel will work properly. I guess the wheel owners knew that already.

Now I just need a recaro shell! Maybe just a sparco would do!
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 08:09 AM
  #35  
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From: Boise
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sunchild
[B]Ok, it makes sense that the buttons are pressure sensitive.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 12:49 PM
  #36  
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You MUST buy the Logitech wheel ! Talk about making it a good simulation ! Yeah the force feedback needs some adjustment for "open road" situations (feels like reverse-of-normal wheel-pull). I'm already planning to make a mini formula car shell to sit in. You'll find me dead of dehydration in front of the screen.

Has anyone figured out the exact effect of the wheel control settings? I mean the highly descriptive names (Amatuer, Pro, etc.) just don't mean anything. Back in GT2 we could set the sensitivity directly.
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 12:53 PM
  #37  
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From: Boise
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Penforhire
[B]
Has anyone figured out the exact effect of the wheel control settings?
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 04:56 PM
  #38  
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No one's mentioned the biggest complaint a few of us had when taking turns at GT3 the other night -- it seems you can't save more than one game on a single memory chip?!? Are we missing something?
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 10:34 PM
  #39  
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From: Boise
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by twohoos
[B]No one's mentioned the biggest complaint a few of us had when taking turns at GT3 the other night -- it seems you can't save more than one game on a single memory chip?!?
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 10:51 PM
  #40  
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From: jimisapostwhore
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I didn't realize you can only save 1 gt3 game per card. I'm going to get another one.
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