Waiting for Parts is Driving Me Crazy!
#52
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Originally Posted by Fongu,Aug 29 2007, 01:54 PM
The only thing I have left to get rid of is the Toda header.
Did you have a price in mind already? PM me.
#53
I heard today from John that the stage 1 cams will be available Monday "if the final testing goes ok".
I'm thinking about ordering a header from him, but guessing it will take 2 months to actaully see it.
I'm thinking about ordering a header from him, but guessing it will take 2 months to actaully see it.
#54
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Like I wrote on the last post on page 2, at least my header is being put together next week. All the bent tubes, collector, etc. are there to be fabricated. I'm calling in again next week to get the cam test and header build update.
If you are going to get the cams I would recommend that you do get the matching header and intake manifold if John gets around to developing it. Assuming that John knows what he is doing, which I think he does from his track record, the header and intake manifold design work together as a system to get the best results. What I have a question about is what kind of results would be had when doing more serious engine work, like changing the displacement and compression and if it would require a significantly different cam design.
If you are going to get the cams I would recommend that you do get the matching header and intake manifold if John gets around to developing it. Assuming that John knows what he is doing, which I think he does from his track record, the header and intake manifold design work together as a system to get the best results. What I have a question about is what kind of results would be had when doing more serious engine work, like changing the displacement and compression and if it would require a significantly different cam design.
#56
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You really can't beat it for battery weight reduction. Although the one I got does have some gotcha's that someone should consider for a daily driver car.
- the terminal build quality and strength are a little suspect
- the battery maintenance is different from regular lead acid, and could be dangerous if recharging/jumping is done the wrong way
- the lightest 3lb battery is good enough for a typical S2000, but is marginal when temperatures get close to freezing. The car always started, but I think the voltage drooped enough to reset the ECU which I think caused me some fuel consumption grief with the car going into pig rich mode after every cold temperature start up. This might not be an issue with a stock engine with stock I/H/E.
I'd probably go for the 4lb one if I were to get another one.
- the terminal build quality and strength are a little suspect
- the battery maintenance is different from regular lead acid, and could be dangerous if recharging/jumping is done the wrong way
- the lightest 3lb battery is good enough for a typical S2000, but is marginal when temperatures get close to freezing. The car always started, but I think the voltage drooped enough to reset the ECU which I think caused me some fuel consumption grief with the car going into pig rich mode after every cold temperature start up. This might not be an issue with a stock engine with stock I/H/E.
I'd probably go for the 4lb one if I were to get another one.
#58
I've been rocking the 4.5 lbs one for about 9 months now and not one single problem. Granted I live in Southern California and we don't see cold temps. But I have turned the car off/on 20 times within 1 hour (during tuning) and also run the radio for over an hour and still no hesitation at all.
#59
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Originally Posted by carrera4,Apr 5 2008, 06:18 PM
I've been rocking the 4.5 lbs one for about 9 months now and not one single problem. Granted I live in Southern California and we don't see cold temps. But I have turned the car off/on 20 times within 1 hour (during tuning) and also run the radio for over an hour and still no hesitation at all.
I considered the 6lb version but I think the new 4lb with 550 Amp would suffice.
Tan
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I agree that the product is good. Voltphreaks just have to come up with some more rugged construction. If you never run in cold weather and have near stock electrical, the 3 lb is fine.
But, for non-racing type enthusiasts, it would be a smarter choice to go at least a size bigger. Start chucking in a modified higher compression motor, big ass stereo and electronics and it can become annoying.
Crazy as it seems, even though it's expensive for a battery, its still one of the cheapest ways to reduce weight when replacing components.
But, for non-racing type enthusiasts, it would be a smarter choice to go at least a size bigger. Start chucking in a modified higher compression motor, big ass stereo and electronics and it can become annoying.
Crazy as it seems, even though it's expensive for a battery, its still one of the cheapest ways to reduce weight when replacing components.