220 lb-ft is still insufficient for the rear axle nuts. Torque them to 180 lb-ft and then 60° past that. See below for a detailed DIY with pix:

Retorquing the Rear Axle Nuts, How-to and Why

 

I might be inclined to roll some fenders.. Although that would be up to you guys.

Is it recommended that I use Honda MTF for my tranny? I ended up changing my engine oil yesterday because the light was bothering me,


1. Manga_Spawn 12 qts oil 1 diff fuild
2. moomoopanda 1 diff fluid, 2 oil filters
3.
4.
5.

 

Exactly. Maybe if enough people tell junky he will start believing it

 

It's really up to you. I've used the original/old Honda MTF formulation, the new/current Honda MTF formulation, GM Syncromesh Friction Modified, and Amsoil Synchromesh MTF all several times each. I recently went back to the Amsoil Syncromesh MTF from the new/current Honda MTF formulation. They all have their pros and cons. Why did I go back to the Amsoil MTF? I've experienced 1st gear popping out several times from a stop and I believe it was due to the Honda MTF. The last time I reached a conclusion, I preferred the Honda MTF but I'm willing to go with something else if it addresses the first gear pop-out issue; I know it has helped others as well. One thing to note is that someone had an oil-analysis done on the Honda MTF (current formulation I believe), and it seems rather thin.

Found oil analysis: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2721211

 

^ Have you tried a 50:50 mix of Honda MTF and Amsoil Syncromesh MTF? There's a thread on the other site where a guy claimed to completely eliminate his second gear pop-out problem. I didn't read the whole thing and I realize your first gear is the culprit, not second gear, but this solution might be worth a try:
Second Gear Pop-Out........... FIXED!

 

I was told that unless your trans is grinding you should just use regular mtf and not syncromesh because the syncromesh is thicker. I use honda mtf but I need to find a way to get some not at the dealer price.

Also the torque wrench i ordered goes up to 250 ft lbs so it should be fine for the axle nut.

 

250 is certainly better than 220 but still not as far as Billman recommends. I think someone estimated close to 400 ft lbs with his method. It is a full 60 degrees past the factory setting of 180.

Read https://www.s2ki.com/home/2012/09/21...ow-to-and-why/

 

In. Ill bring my 3/8 inch torque wrench that goes to 98ft/lbs or 132.9 Nm. It has slight rusting and sometimes hard to dial in precisely. Oddly, I think for once my s2 has more torque than my torque wrench.

We should meet at spets place. Its HUGE! Like lots of cars can park and be worked on all at the same time. Plus we can go polar bear diving for those of us who want to.

 

Yeah yeah... I just go by what’s proven to work on my own car for a zillion miles. I don’t like the idea of trqing the axel nuts near 200% over what Honda recommends. Seems a little excessive, know what I mean But you guys indulge yourselves. I am going to check and re torque mine to where I feel comfortable. If it isnt broke, dont fix it I say. There are signs you need to re trq far before you create any damage and that’s what I have learned to go by with my Vvvvast experience. BIllman can kiss my ass

You can prematurely wear out your bearings by over tightening them. 400lb from 220lb is not a little jump. I will be using the 250lb trq wrench I think

 

Guess it wouldn't hurt to try. Has mixed reviews, but I think I'll be fine. I will be making use of that torque wrench as well...