NFRs2000NYC

You can't test a lens's sharpness in not ideal conditions. My Tamron outside in midday produces RAZOR sharp photos at 2.8. They are so sharp, that pixel peeping an eyelash is STILL sharp.

NFRs2000NYC

You don't even need to go to F8. I had this conversation with Steve in depth, and we both agreed that one or two stops above wide open is the sharpest. However, shooting landscapes, I shoot at F11.

vtecmonster

why would you lower your F stop or raise it? Im guessing it has something to do with lighting

JoeyBalls

^ Larger F stop (small F Number) is a larger opening, allows more light in, gives you a higher shutter speed in low-light (fast lens) Also has better Bokeh

this is a quick and dirty, i'll let someone else chime in

babowc

have you guys used the nikkor 1.4G?

I blew up the picture in ps last night and checked out the pics i took @ f1.4 and color fringes are quite noticeable, i was a bit disappointed as I sold the 1.8D i had for this one..

I also noticed that even at f1.4, if you don't have a steady hand, you're not getting good shots with available lighting.. which was why I got the 1.4...

vtecmonster

so the lower the F stop the faster the lens can shoot in low light? I know my kit lens is real slow in low light. I didnt know that had to do with the lens i figured that was the body or something.

zzziippyyy

Except for what your focused on

philbert

there are 3 variables to consider - shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity (ISO).

longer shutter speeds (lower fractions) and bigger lens opening (larger aperture, smaller f-number) let in more light.

a higher ISO is more sensitive to the light you have, at the expense of noise.

along with changing the amount of light, the changing aperture also adjusts the depth of field - (wider opening gives shallower depth of field - your subject will be in focus, but things in front and behind of will not).

shutter speed is how long the shutter is open. the longer it's open, the more movement (both of the subject and the shooter) has an effect. a tripod (or VR) can address shooter motion, but with moving subjects, your limited by shutter speed.

ISO is sort of the last step, ideally kept as low as possible that will provide for the necessary minimum shutter speed required, given the desired depth of field.

philbert

agree with the general premise - you're less likely to go wrong with the camera manufacturers lenses. however, in any particular case, there may be a 3rd party lens that is "better" in some (or even most) respects. you'll have to consult various reviews to get a sense of what the differences are and which are important to you.