Damn oil pan threads
I was replacing a few things on my gf's 91 accord exr today. Of all the problems to encounter, I just have to encounter one that's related to doing an oil change!
I noticed that when I try to put back the oil plug (bolt) into the oil pan, it will tighten and then it will loosen again. Upon inspection of the bolt with a friend, we saw that the threads on the bolt was virtually fudged. Friend of mine gave me one of his extra one. When I used my friend's, the bolt would stop halfway. So we suspect it's the thread on the oil pan that's fudged.
So right now, the fudge up bolt is in there but with an oil leak, probably takes 1 hr to produce 1 drop.
What are my options, other than buying a new oil pan?
Yes, try the oilpan thread re-tap. Find out what the thread size and pitch is and get the appropriate tap and run it in (use the bolt as the guide). Your biggest problem will be keeping the shavings out of the oilpan. Coat the tap with a heavy grease or Vaseline. When done, use Q-tips the swab out the inner surface around the hole to get any grease that might be there. Put in a new plug bolt. Don't use the old one.
If this doesn't work, you'll have to remove the oilpan and put in a new threaded hole that's a bit bigger than the original. This will involve drilling out the old threads, re-tapping the threads to a bigger size and getting a new plug bolt of that size.
If this doesn't work, you'll have to remove the oilpan and put in a new threaded hole that's a bit bigger than the original. This will involve drilling out the old threads, re-tapping the threads to a bigger size and getting a new plug bolt of that size.
I called a couple of reputable auto tech shop and they want $215 to do the weld-a-nut method (which is what they both recommended)
Or I can get a new aftermarket oil pan for $100 and replace it myself. I think the problem I'd run into is having to unbolt the downpipe or exhaust first
Rusty bolts and all
I supposed the re-tap method that Dave mentioned would be a good (and cheap) start.
Or I can get a new aftermarket oil pan for $100 and replace it myself. I think the problem I'd run into is having to unbolt the downpipe or exhaust first
I supposed the re-tap method that Dave mentioned would be a good (and cheap) start.
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Now, now, Ian. Haven't you seen all the horror stories about dealer oil changes? I have many of them bookmarked for quick reference. I know you take pride in your dealership's (T&T) competence, but if anyone wants to know about what Calgary Honda did to BlackS2000's car when they changed his oil, just ask. And then there's that ugly business about the spark plug recall and what they did with those.


