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High mount stop light

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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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Default High mount stop light

Anyone ever had the high mount stop light cease working? I checked the fuse (OK), then checked the connector with the light installed (OK), then removed the light from the trunklid and cleaned the connector...no corrosion and the contacts look fine. Also looked for any frayed wires in the trunk (thinking maybe it's shorting) and everything looks just like new. My understanding is that it's an LED...can they simply burn out like a bulb?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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LED's should last basically forever. If you're coming out to our meet in a few weeks, maybe we could try someone elses 3rd brake light on your car to see if it works.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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Those wires flex everytime you open/close the trunk lid.........probably worn out/broken inside the plastic casing.....same thing happened on my Miata after a number of years....just re-spliced the wires and added a bit more slack - no probs after that.

Reijo
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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How about your regular brake lights? Or is it ONLY the high mounted brake light that doesn't work?
It's fuse #47 near the battery. It's the same fuse that's for the horn. Does you horn work?

There are several LEDs in the light bar. They wouldn't all go at once.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:12 PM
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Horn works...so do both of the other brake lights...it's only the high-mounted light that's not functioning. Since none of the LEDs are lighting, this is looking like a problem in the wiring to the LED unit. I guess the next step is to pull out the wiring in the trunk, peel back the plastic casing and see if something's broken.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gcurnew,Apr 10 2006, 07:12 PM
I guess the next step is to pull out the wiring in the trunk, peel back the plastic casing and see if something's broken.
If you have a voltmeter, might be easier to test for power at the connector. You'll need two people, though.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:28 PM
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Yes, I guess a voltmeter would be tell me whether there's power to the connector, or if the connector is likely the problem. I'll corner one of my son's buddies (and his voltmeter) who's installed car stereos for a living...thanx
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by xviper,Apr 10 2006, 07:20 PM
If you have a voltmeter, might be easier to test for power at the connector. You'll need two people, though.
Or one person and a snowbrush...
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Tested with a voltmeter...no power at the end of the wire where it attaches to the connector. Now I'll pull the cable out in the trunk, peel back the casing and see if there's any breaks or visible wear that could be causing the problem.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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If you trace the wire, and then while examining it while moving the trunklid up and down a few inches, look for the point where it flexes the most and the break will most likely be within 6 inches of that point. Hopefully that'll save you some time.
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