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Decided to mount the S/C on the engine today.
Started by removing the VTEC solenoid and putting in the oil feed.
I have already modified my stock oil pressure sender (for a "proper" oil pressure gauge) and wanted to NOT extend the fittings out too far from the engine. I'm worried that the weight of a long chain of fittings compounded by the engine's vibrations might cause to mishap. I kept the stock sender as close to the block as possible and used only a couple of the supplied fittings to tap the oil feed. I will also squeeze some foam between the brass fitting and the oil filter coolant line to act as a cushion.


Next, you see the VTEC solenoid extension bracket that also acts as one of the upper mounting braces for the S/C. There are several mounting points. This thing is REALLY mounted well. I don't have any fear that the thing will rattle loose. After hearing about some issues with oil leaks here, I decided to use some high temp, high vacuum grease on the rubber gaskets (both the stock one and the supplied one). I started the car up after this install and no leaks anywhere.


Here is the mounted S/C with it's belt tie wrapped out of the way so I can still drive the car without interference. You can also see where the oil feed line is hooked up. That relay in the foreground is for the coolant motor. Left one wire off for the time being so the motor won't run since there is no coolant yet.


From another angle:


When you get to the point where the instructions say to NOT use any of the hardware from the stock idler pulley, DON'T LISTEN TO THEM! You must use the stock washer/spacer that faces the engine block or the pulley will not turn as has been discovered by another owner recently.

Next up: Installing the air filter assembly and maybe the chargecooler. I'll see if the engine can get enough air by "sucking" it through the non-turning S/C. If not, I'll just "jury rig" an air filter for the time being.

 

Don't change it. Your way is better, just loosen up the fitting and swivel it a little bit for more clearance if you're worried about it. I'm going to make mine a bit more vertical to take the bend out of it.

 

Lookin' good xviper

Yeah the idler pully instructions were pretty bad

So what do you have left??
-Fuel pump?
-black boxes?
-intake?
-aftercooler?

Thes pictures would have been very helpful if I didn't do mine yet. So thanks from every one else who will use them

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by spapdx
[B]Lookin' good xviper

Yeah the idler pully instructions were pretty bad

So what do you have left??
-Fuel pump?
-black boxes?
-intake?
-aftercooler?

Thes pictures would have been very helpful if I didn't do mine yet.

 

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Here are some of the parts for the airbox assembly. Notice the brass fitting in the box on the left? It's actually supposed to go into the hole in the "elbow" just above the orange box.


Kinda like this. I looked all over for that stupid brass fitting. Thought they stiffed me. A tube goes on that fitting that runs to the valve cover breather fitting. This used to dump into the passenger side fitting on the black rubber intake tube.


Here it is mounted in the car. Those metal brackets wouldn't work right (match up with upper rad bolt and base of cross member) if both holes and screws are used. Had to use only one screw and only on the bottom hole in each position on the air box.


Trimmed the "accordian" tube down a bit and connected airbox to S/C.


Removed that tube that normally goes into the driver's side of the rubber intake tube and put this little orange filter on.

(cont'd in next post)

 

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Various pics of the whole thing on the car but belt still not driving it.




Next up: mount computer box OR fuel pump.
(It's snowing as I type so what's the point ............. <big sigh>, so maybe next week or the week after.)

 

Just came back from a short errand. The car seems to able to run while sucking air through a "dead" S/C. However, I don't think it likes it though. Beginning at 3000 rpm, there is a noticeable bit of vibration coming through the stick that wasn't there before. Anybody with a "running" S/C notice more vibration? At least there are no leaks.
I may be finishing this up sooner than I had planned.

 

Dave, just finish that bad boy up and lets go drifting this weekend

 

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Had a little time on my hands and studied the wiring diagram for the timing and map controller. Figured out where all the male and female connectors need to go and crimped them on the proper wires. Should be a lot easier than doing it on my back under the dash. Also have the vacuum line extension connected up and ready to go too.

 

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Decided to fill the chargecooler system with coolant. I used about a 50:50 mix of long life anti-freeze. Took about a gallon or so. Unless you have a really good fitting bung or stopper, don't do it the way the instruction manual says. You'll dribble anti-freeze all over the place. Just clamp both hose lines on and poor it in. Let it bubble and burp it's way down. It's slow but it'll get there. When it doesn't go down anymore, go "key" your ignition to activate the pump for about 30 seconds. Shut it off and top up. Continue doing this till you no longer need to top up. It took me about 3 key cycles.


Also finished off most of the vacuum lines. One from the FMU to "T" with the stock fuel pressure reg to manifold line. Plus one from the BOV to "T" with the just mentioned vacuum line.