Is it difficult to change the coolant in the chargecooler? I realize that you need an adequate mixture of antifreeze during the winter, but as it warms back up, a higher percentage of water will allow better cooling.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]Is it difficult to change the coolant in the chargecooler?

 

Looks great

:jealous of your polished kit :

 

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Here are the first 2 "T's" you need. Top one is so the FMU can get the vacuum signal fromt the manifold. The bottom (slightly left) one goes to the BOV end nipple (This line needs the reducer fitting that comes with the kit so the BOV line can be reduced to meet up with the "T").


Installed the timing controller and MAP controller today. Here's the pic that the instruction manual does NOT show you: (What a mess. It would be very easy to connect up just one wire and the car will throw a CEL. Luckily, I planned it in advance and all the wires are where they ought to be.)


From the timing box comes a vacuum line that needs to sense manifold pressure. Shoved it through the firewall and "T'd" it into the previous mentioned lines:


Decided to put on the S/C pulley today. Tightening was not too bad at all if you have the right tools. Here, you see my "right-angle" reversible rachet with T-handle. Put on a 3/8" socket and an tiny extension and it's pretty easy. Next, is the 19mm wrench for tighten up the jam locknut. I used the closed end that has a bit of a bend and it was pretty easy from underneath if the car if jacked up on the left side.


Also finished off tying in the FMU fuel lines. One goes from the side fitting on the FMU and goes to the stock fuel pressure regulator and replaces the line that was already there. The center line off the FMU goes down to the fuel return line under the car. (This would be the other end of the fuel press. reg. line that was removed.)
Will put the kick panel back together now that I know the wiring is correct and it would seem that I have the RIGHT computer box! Tuck all those wires up neatly out of the way and that's it.
The hard top is off in preparation for doing the fuel pump tomorrow.
Tonight, I'll pull out the plugs, clean them and regap them to 0.035". Since they were new not long ago from the plug TSB, I'll try them for a while and see how they work.

 

I was originally going to go with the satin but when the guy told me it would only save me about a hundred bucks, I said to heck with it and just went with the polished.

 

Ooo, its coming along nicely!

 

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Did the fuel pump swap this morning. It's a blitch working one armed with your head between the roll hoops (my poor back and tenis elbow ).
Took out the spare tire, popped all the pins in the trim pieces, removed the vertical trim piece, then the tray itself comes out the trunk.

HINT: TURN OFF YOUR GARAGE HEATER OFF BEFORE DOING THIS SO YOU DON'T BLOW YOURSELF TO KINGDOM COME!
2nd hint: Don't bleed the fuel system like it says in the book -- too messy and you'll need a new little gasket on that thing next to the press. reg. that you have to turn. Pull the fuel pump fuse (second from the bottom on the left bank of fuses under the dash), crank the motor for about 15 sec., remove and then replace the fuel filler cap. Very little seepage but have a rag on hand to catch what comes out of the first fuel line you disconnect.

Here's a pic of the rear tray coming out:


The new pump is a bit longer so you'll need to cut the rubber tube by about a 1/4" so it resides up more into the housing. I used the new fuel screen that came with the pump and it gets in the way of the fuel level float so the whole thing needs to be twisted a bit to clear the float. (I hope it doesn't drift back and mess up my fuel gauge.) Put it all back together, fired it up after pressurizing the system for two key cycles. Started up right away - no leaks!

Went for a very short drive and ALL IS WELL! I still have my snow tires on and the roads are moist. Funny, can't seem to keep the tires on the ground once I hit 5000 rpm. It just breaks loose and spins the tires like a crazy fool. No CEL light (yet) and I don't (I hope) expect to see one.
All in all, it was a very fun install. I love putting stuff together and this was quite enjoyable. I didn't need anything that the Vortech manual didn't say I needed - no trips to Home Depot, just a 19mm wrench to tighten the belt tensioner. My mechanic even made me the crank pulley holder for free (but he kept it). Everything was included in the kit. I even have a few odds and sods left over. (I sure hope they were extras.

Except for the boost gauge, which I'll do one of these days soon,
<span style='font-size:11pt;line-height:100%'>IT'S DONE! </span>

 

Good job xviper

I had a few extra little parts arount too.... so I wouldn't worry about it

My roads are wet here too...makes for an interesting lunch break

 

Woo Hoo. That was fun following along. What was the most difficult thing to do?

 

Shotgun!