bgoetz

I have two very tiny rust spots in the typical rear quarter meets rear bumper spots. The one is pretty much limited to the lip where that god awful black trim piece use to be. The other is about the size of a dime in the same area and does not appear to have made it to the pinch weld in the rear quarter yet. I really want to try to get these things before they get to the pinch weld and potentially get behind the rear quarter (who knows maybe they already are).

My plan of attack: Expose all of the rust by removing paint until I see clean metal. knock out as much of the rust as possible with a dremel and light sanding. Hopefully by this point I will be limited to the lip and just upon to the outside of the rear quarter in the one spot and the lip and a quarter size area on the other. From here I am going to use loc-tite rust converter as opposed to a POR 15 due to the fact that rust will still be present and it is my understanding that POR 15 does not do as well as a converter in these situations. Lastly I will use OEM touch up paint in a airbrush to detail spray the tiny areas, really trying to limit the total surface area impacted (a rattle can would just not be fine enough).

My concerns:

1. POR 15 would work better. I have read tons of great reviews on POR 15, but I read many articles that suggest a true converter like the loc-tite is best when you cans go to clean metal and I can't. That said the loc-tite is a bit scary in that it implies that if you don't leave rust you could cause rust. I have just read so many different opinions, I think I will just pull the trigger on the loc-tite, especially since I have a bottle on hand. Unless someone makes a convincing argument (someone with experience in both).

2. Can you spray OEM touch up in a airbrush without diluting it? I read it may need diluted to spray well. What do I use and how much? Honestly if I can't use the airbrush I will likely just brush the touch up on, as a rattle can will be way to big of an area and taping that tight will leave a huge paint line.

Any thoughts from paint experts?

vtaky0

did you ever fix this?

tut4u2

I just went through this myself with my car. I used a mix of POR-15, Loctite Naval Jelly, and Rust Converter depending on where the rust was located.

I did POR 15 on the fenders from the inside because once I started sanding the rust I found that it was more significant that I thought.

Here are some photos:

bgoetz

Yes I actually did fix it, but then it started creeping back around the edges of my repair. So I am on round 2. The first time I messed up and did JB weld then POR. This time I did POR then the JB weld. I think this is going to be the way to go with this repair. For what it is worth it did last over a year the last time around and it was barely creeping back, this time I expect it will work even better.

I dremeled all of the rust out, hit it with POR-15, filled with JB weld and will be sanding/painting shortly. I use just a color matched rattle can and took my time the last time and it came out great. I will do the same this time around

vtaky0

I fear you are wasting your time. The rust will just come back again.

Get it done professionally with a warranty on their work.

bgoetz

I don't know, I think I mostly removed it and have replaced everything with JB weld. In all truth it really isn't a difficult task and it is so small that it is hardly noticeable. If it seems like it is getting out of hand then I may have a shop cut it out or try to DIY it by cutting/welding, but at this point it isn't a big deal.

simons

Dealing with rust myself. Do you still own the car? How did it go the years after your repairs with the rust? As Far as I can see, the rust comes from within the 2 sheets metal that forms the bodywork, and when it is visible in the paintwork, it means there is a terrible load of rust on the inside of the panels, especially between the two sheets metal that are spotwelded together at the seem of the arch. For some reason moist seems to get in between the inner and out metal sheet of the bodywork.

If you are still here and reading, please update! And ca you share a pic of yoir rattle can paintwork? Am really curious to see if it is visible or a diy with a spray can, can look oem?