I’ve seen several posts about adding spoilers and wings but not much about removing the stock lip spoiler in prep for such. Decided I’d document my process here as I prep for adding an APR GTC-200. I’ve seen some add on top of the OEM lip but I wanted to remove it for a clean install. I also ordered the trunk support kit for handling the increased weight and downforce without warping the trunk. I may document that in another thread for the install. This is a 2004 AP2.

For removal of lip, here’s the tools / items I used:

- Bondo squeegees - https://a.co/d/etzZOZn
- Variable speed drill
- Eraser wheel - https://a.co/d/jhqy7nK
- Gloves, rags, applicator pad
- Goo gone
- Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax - https://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-...uid-70961.html
- Plastic trim tools - https://a.co/d/bTbKiWu



OEM lip spoiler before starting the process


1. Didn’t get any pictures during the process but start with the bondo squeegees and force one under one end of the OEM lip and begin to work it back and forth to break the seal of the 3M tape that is holding the lip onto the trunk. It takes quite a bit of force and patience in slowly working it back and forth to get it further and further under the lip. As you work it under the lip, use the plastic trim tools (won’t scratch paint) and stick the tip of one of the tools under the lip to create upward pressure and hold it off the surface of the trunk. Keep working the squeegee further and further while moving the trim tools and using multiple of the trim tools to add pressure on both front and back of the spoiler. You’ll work your way all the way across the trunk. It gets easier as you go and it will eventually pop all the way off. It is normal for it to leave quite a bit of the 3M tape on the trunk.


Spoiler removed and 3M tape and residue on car


2. Use a drill and the eraser wheel to remove the tape and residue. You can use the plastic trim tools to try and scrape off the large pieces of tape first. Do NOT put the drill on full speed. Keep a lower speed (half trigger pull) and apply some pressure to the trunk. Take frequent breaks so as not to build up too much heat in the wheel. It will remove all the residue from the car. Don’t worry about the lint and haze it leaves. That will come off as you begin to clean further. Again, takes a little time and patience.


Eraser wheel starting to take tape and residue off


3. While taking breaks to let the wheel cool, use Goo Gone or similar and a microfiber cloth to clean the haze and lint off the car that the eraser wheel leaves behind. You’ll begin to see what the trunk is going to look like, with a shine from the initial cleaning. Ensure to get all the Goo Gone off and completely dry the surface once done with this step.


Continuing to remove tape and clean surface


4. Once cleaned and dry, use a cleaner wax and an applicator pad to apply a layer of wax. Let it haze for a couple of minutes and then wipe off with a clean microfiber cloth. The surface should shine like new, with the wax removing any small surface blemishes left behind from the spoiler. The picture below was prior to applying the wax and you can see how good it already looked. After the wax, I couldn’t even tell the spoiler had been there.


Cleaned and ready for cleaner wax as last step

Hope this is helpful for anyone else looking to remove the OEM lip spoiler in prep for another spoiler or wing. With the right tools and a little patience, it was easy and I’m super pleased with the result. Bring on the GTC-200!!

 

Nice job!

I believe the OEM rear spoilers are bolted to the trunk lid but this post is valuable for removing aftermarket spoilers which are held on with 3M double sided tape.

-- Chuck

 

Nice! I wondered about that. I guess it was an OEM Honda spoiler that someone added to the car after purchase. It had the bolt holes on the spoiler as you can see from the photos but, thankfully, it wasn’t drilled through the trunk. I inspected the trunk from inside first and could find no evidence of where bolts may be used. I was nervous the whole time was going to hit one though. Nope - the Bondo squeegees just kept sliding. Haha

I appreciate the clarity on the post though.

 

I'm sure you were relieved to not find any bolts! No way I was going to drill holes in my trunk lid so I opted for an aftermarket replica spoiler which has been happy and secure for almost 10 years back there. I assumed the OEM spoiler would have studs and just nuts inside the trunk not the not simple bolt holes so my fears were moot. I'm guessing my replica spoiler is lighter that OEM 'cuz no spring changes were requires.

Your goal is function not fluff and what you're installing claims to actually put some down force on the car and won't just glue on. Please keep us informed on how you mount it and how you get the down force applies to the chassis and not merely the lid.

-- Chuck

 

Will do! Yeah, I can’t wait to get the APR on there. It should be in tomorrow so I’ll be installing later this week. I also ordered the CR trunk reinforcement kit from HondaPartsNow to ensure the trunk can handle the weight under downforce. I’ll get more pics and the process up here as I install. Thanks again.

 

Got the APR mounted! Working on building and custom mounting a splitter around my intercooler piping. Can’t wait to get this all wrapped up and try it out.


Mounted super easy. One of the drill holes was pre-marked on the underside of the factory trunk lid so easy to drill the first hole and then line everything up. Super sturdy and excellent quality.

Work in progress! Getting a custom splitter built from 1/2” birch and trying to get it mounted frame mounted around my intercooler piping (DevSport won’t work). Getting close.

 

Had to get one more pic posted with the splitter mounted and out in the wild. Loving the new look.