Excellent point. My lengthy (as usual) post dealt mostly with what happens if you increase front AND rear swaybars. If you only increase one end, that end will have more bias, regardless of motion ratios (though increasing front only has more increase in bias than increasing rear only by a similar amount would).

Since he is on 10k/10k springs (560/560), he's already shifted bias rearward significantly compared to stock (as detailed in my lengthy post). So dialing in more front bias with larger front bar is warranted.

He is also on stock stagger, so the amount he might want to go isn't as far as someone square. If he's looking to emulate what others have done successfully, it could be a little misleading, because vast majority of those with his spring rates have also gone square, meaning their suspension config isn't going to work the same way for him.

 

I'm running 10k/10k Ohlins with stock AP1 bars and AP2 rear subframe in my AP1 with 255 square 200tw tires. The balance is very good now that the rear is calmed by the AP2 subframe. The balance changes depending on how I drive it. I can make it push, be neutral, and oversteer too. Depends a lot on the track and the line I take and especially on managing weight transfer. Your staggered setup should result in more understeer in steady state conditions though. You'll also want to address alignment if you haven't already. More camber is your friend. And don't forget adjusting shocks as well as tire pressures - although that doesn't make as much difference as some say.

How comfortable are you with oversteer? People who grew up with front wheel drive cars can be caught out by it - and even confuse a neutral car for oversteer. A little understeer is definitely easier and safer to drive fast.

 

The car behaves very different at balancing traction on slow speed corners vs high speed. Unless you are running a big wing, the car wants to over steer at high speed but the same car will push or feel balanced at a slower speed corner depending on the suspension bias. I tune my cars suspension to be more balanced at high speed without aero/wing, which means it pushes more in slower tight corners.

 

If you're tracking the car on grippier-than-stock tires, then regardless of overall spring rates, keep in mind that the AP1 rear bars (esp '00-'01) can induce major issues with inside rear wheelspin at corner exit. Over time, repeated wheelspin incidents can damage the OEM diff due to the shock that occurs when grip is suddenly restored.

 

would it not tame rear end spin with 04 subframe with 04 arb ^^^ Mr T

 

First and only mod/change I've ever done is sway-bars on my MY03 (it was too over-steer'y) when I first bought it.

I changed it to:
MY01/02 FSB (thickest, similar to CR FSB)
MY06+ RSB (thinnest RSB)

Handles a dream after the change. Feels very balanced and sticky. Doesn't oversteer easily nor unexpectedly anymore (only when I want it to). Much more predictable and communicative of oversteer. Grips like an AWD car, lol.