ssm05ap2

I have a 2005 S2000 with B&G springs and Koni yellow shocks. I just had the shocks and springs installed a week ago or so. I took the car to get an alignment on Saturday. I was planning on having the alignment done back to factory specs. The guy doing my alignment said he could only get the right rear wheel back to -2.7 degrees, but he got the left rear wheel back to -1.5 degrees. I thought it was odd that the camber adjustment would max out at that much of a difference on either side. I took it to another shop this morning to get another opinion, but they told me their alignment rack wouldn't work because my car is too low. I am trying to determine whether I need to get the SPC ball joints to get back to factory specs in the rear and/or front. I did some searching on the forum but was unable to find an answer.

Here are the alignment specs I was given:

FL: Camber: -0.9 degrees before/-1.1 degrees after
Caster: 5.4 before/5.4 after
Toe: -0.22 before/.03 after

FR: Camber: -1.5 before/-1.3 after
Caster: 5.4 before/5.4 after
Toe: -0.21 before/-0.02 after

RL: Camber: -1.8 before/-1.5 after
Toe: 0.47 before/0.17 after

RR: Camber: -2.8 before/-2.7 after
Toe: 0.27 before/0.14 after

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

RedCelica

honestly it sounds like you've got a damaged suspension part. Have you hit or run over anything? If the camber has been off for a while I'd have it looked at. Do you know what the alignment specs were before the suspension was installed?

ssm05ap2

I did have the alignment checked a couple weeks before I had the shocks and springs installed. I don't remember the exact specs. The camber was definitely not off like it is now. I haven't hit anything. Should you generally be able to get back to factory specs without a camber kit when lowered 1.25"?

bgoetz

Did you preload the bushings? If your too low to get on the rack, your pretty low.

ssm05ap2

I didn't install the shocks/springs myself. I had a mechanic do it. Would failure to preload the bushings affect the alignment/camber? I think the guy was saying it was too low for the laser alignment system they use not to actually get it on the rack. Excuse my ignorance - I'm not sure exactly how the alignment rack works. I'm just trying to figure out my next step, and I'd rather avoid buying 4 adjustable ball joints if they aren't needed.

bgoetz

Not preloading the bushings could make it screwed up from side to side, like it is now. In addition to wearing your bushings. Not sure that it would effect as much as you are experiencing though, but it is a good place to start and it needs done.

Slowcrash_101

That's a lie, if you can get the car on the rack it can be aligned. Most people just can't align these cars properly. I like to loosen both camber and toe adjusters in the rear at the same time, it's the only way to properly align the knuckle. Most people just turn one adjuster with the other locked in place. The manual states to do camber adjustment first(rear adjuster) then toe(front), I do it this way but only tighten the adjuster once I've aligned the knuckle, and unless you're replacing the lock nuts with new ones you'll need to overtorque them by a good 20-30lb/ft.

The bushing on the toe arm usually fails and this affects alignment adjustment, also if the suspension wasn't properly preloaded it affects camber because the upper arm contracts relative to the lower if raising the vehicle.

ssm05ap2

Thanks for the help guys. I guess I'll start by making sure my mechanic preloaded the bushings. If not I'll go ahead and preload them. Next step will be to take it to a different alignment shop to see if they are able to adjust the camber any more. And last resort will be coughinb up the money for the SPC ball joints.

ssm05ap2

OK, so I have another question regarding the bushing preload. My mechanic states that the suspension had to be compressed in order to tighten the shocks, and the car was on the ground when the upper mounts were tightened. Would that mean that the bushings were preloaded properly?

bgoetz

No, based on his response he does not know how to properly install shock on an S2000. Preloading is pushing the shock up from either the bottom of the brake rotor for the fronts or the lower ball joints in the rear till the car lifts ever so slightly off the jack stands, then tightening the lower shock bolt and the two upper control arm bolts all of which had to be removed. This loads the bushings at where they will be when the car is on the ground, otherwise they would not be loaded right and in order to get the ride height even the shocks will be adjusted uneven, causing issues like you are having now. Quite honestly his response would be concerning as he thinks that the upper mounts are all that needed tightened with the car on the ground.