Thanks bgoetz. So I'll need to loosen the lower shock bolt through the upside down "U" and the upper control arm bolts, then raise the suspension with a jack, and tighten those bolts to spec? Do the top shock mount bolts need to be loosened as well? Also, the mechanic that did the install said one of the lower shock bolts would not work, so he used a long bolt with a nut to secure it. Would that affect anything? Sorry for all the questions. I'm going to be tackling this on Saturday and don't want to miss anything.

 

Ah makes sense...I concur, failure to preload would cause those specs. I'd loosen the whole thing, preload, tighten to spec, get it re-aligned.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/848...lling-springs/

 

Yep, just follow that DIY, you don't need to touch the upper mounts. I think you are going to find that your ride height is uneven, so do this:

After you preload and get the car off jack stands, adjust one side on your front to the height you want. Note that you will need to adjust, put the wheel back on (I typically just use 3 lug nuts for ease of removing to adjust again), roll the car/bounce the suspension, then measure. Once you get the height you want measure where the perch is using a set point on the shock or by counting the threads and then put the opposite side to the same measurement/thread count. Repeat the process with the rear. Short of corner balancing this is the best way IMO to set up the height adjust.

 

Some will suggest preloading again to the new height, but as long as your making small height adjustments (.25" +\-), it isn't necessary. If you preloaded consistently on all corners your height should appear pretty much even from side to side.

 

I was told by a member the proper way to preload is to put car on lift loosen all suspension bolts lower car onto jackstands on the suspension arms then tighten with arms on jackstands. Top mounting bolts don't need to be touched but all others do.

Once you align the car you will end up preloading the bottom bushings so you don't need to do them, when you do the alignment loosen the front lower arm bolt in the rear and tighten them after you finish the alignment.

 

I'm on springs, so my height isn't adjustable. I really appreciate all of the info guys. I'll be doing this Saturday Morning. I'll post an update once I get the alignment.

 

There is no guarantee the alignment shop will touch every adjustment. If its already spot on, they won't loosen that bolt, so that bushing would still have preload.

Putting cars suspension on jack stands isn't going to properly simulate ride height when car is sitting on its tires. Furthermore, if you are going to lower the car onto jack stands, why use a lift in the first place. Just put the car onto the stands and do everything from there.

The ideal way to do this is on one of those drive on lifts, where the car rests on its wheels. If you don't have access to that, I suggest using 2 sets of ramps. Drive front wheels onto ramps. Jack rear, lower car onto second set of ramps.

Be very careful here, ramps aren't meant to be used this way. Make sure you are on solid, level ground. Make sure ramps are rated for the load. Make sure you have something under the car as a backup (your floor jack, spare set of wheels, etc). Use your brains, do this at your risk, etc.

 

^^^^ jack stands and using a jack to slightly lift the car off the stands works just fine. All you are doing is loading the bushings somewhat close to where they will be with the car on the ground and making them consistent all around.