After taking my car to an alignment shop, I was told they couldn’t get my rear alignment into my desired spec (-2.5 in the rear). They were kind of vague with why and didn’t charge me anything, but also recommended a shop that specializes in alignment “issues”. Here is the print out of the post alignment at Shop 1:




As you can see. Rear camber is my issue. Here’s my setup:

- Koni Yellow Adjustables - Fixed Height
- Lowering Springs - Unsure of brand (2 finger gap to Fender)
- Megan Rear Anti-Bumpsteer Toe Arms
- Megan Driveshaft Spacers

I went to Shop 2, who gave me a better run down of where they were having issues.

The tech was very in tune with the Camber/Toe adjustment procedure, and how one effects the other, so I’m confident in his knowledge and abilities.

He said that driver side cannot be brought and more POSITIVE, it’s got room to go further negative, but I was asking for -2.5 in the rear. He said it could easily be brought down to -3 or more, but was basically maxed out “low side” camber. This makes sense with car being lowered, right?

The passenger side is the opposite, maxed out “high” at -1.9 and could be brought upright toward 0, but can’t move any further NEGATIVE. This seems strange... with the car being lowered, extra negative camber seems like it should be a certainty.

He said that obviously with the adjustable toe arms there is plenty of room to bring toe into spec on either side, regardless of my ideal camber spec.

I asked him if anything was visibly bent or about frozen/seized eccentric bolts. He said nothing is visibly bent, and nothing was frozen.

I replaced my axles and the previous owner had replaced the diff. With nothing visibly bent, is there a possibility that the subframe shifted? With the ball joints looking okay and nothing visibly off, that is the only thing I can think of. It also seems like the rear of the car is lowered slightly “unevenly”, with the out-of-camber passenger side seemingly 1-2mm lower than the driver side. Again not quite adding up.

With my cars rear end being skewed in some fashion, I’m trying to figure out where to start before just throwing parts at it.

Should I loosen and attempt to reset the subframe? Is there a way to measure it? Any help would be super appreciated!

 

Thinking about it.... with all the rear suspension components being attached to the subframe, is a shift even a possible cause of this issue?

seems like even if I shifted the subframe toward the driver side, it would pull the whole passenger side in together, and not actually change the camber?

 

I'm actually dealing with a similar problem, but in the front. My only difference is I'm on stock suspension. I ordered the Spoon Rigid Collars and will be installing this weekend and taking it to get aligned after. I can post up my results when it's all done to maybe help you rule it out.

 

Correct...since nothing on the rear suspension mounts to the chassis, the rear subframe shift shouldn't affect camber.

BUT its a good idea to re center it anyway since toe and camber are dependent angles.

You probably have a slightly bent spindle or maybe a worn bushing or eccentric tab.

Spindles bend pretty easily. Maybe the PO hit something sideways.

Or maybe the toe arms are set incorrectly and now its difficult to get camber dialed.

Straighten out that toe, though. Honda wanted an excessive amount. Use somewhere between 0.06 and 0.1 deg per side maybe.