takchi

I've tested the entire lineup of pads from Winmax (W1 to W7). W7 is discontinued for now.

I've also played with the entire lineup of readily available Project Mu pads (NS400, B-Force, HC+800/HC+, Club Racer, 777, and 999).

Depending on the tire and experience level, I can help you with your choice. RBF600 is easy to pickup. If you have a better driving pace and find yourself getting a mushy pedal often, just go with a higher quality DOT4 fluid.


Sounds good. It might be harder to bed in the W2 or W3 pads when you have a transfer layer from the Project Mu pads, but once you get it bedded in, it's solid. You may want to consider a higher quality DOT4 brake fluid if you're flushing that often.

dv55xc

From what I know, the Project Mu HC+800's are a good all around pad. I use them for daily driving, track, and canyon/spirited driving. These pads can take a pretty good beating and I have yet to experience any brake fade. I am still a novice track driver so my skill level will match to these pads pretty well. If you are a serious/experienced track day driver then the PMu Club Racer pads will make more sense.

The difference between the 2 pads are the starting heat tempuratures and initial bite response. the operating temps of the HC's start at 0 and end at ～800℃. The operating temps of the CR's start at 300C and end at ～800℃. The initial bite of the HC's is stronger than stock. You will notice a difference. I dont have any experience on the CR's but from what I know they bite a bit harder than the HC's and dont break up in braking as it climbs in the temperature range. I'm not an expert on brake pads so if anyone has feedback and better info please chime in!

As far as fluids are concerned, I am running the motul RBF600 fluid. I dont think you can tell the difference between OEM and the Motul fluid but its good to to know that the Motul does have a higher dry and wet boiling point than OEM. Motul fluid is also easily attainable for me as I do not live too far away from Evasive and Ballade.

I hope this helps!

SpeedFreaksUSA

Hey Hope you had fun in the last sessions on Sunday, I took off a little early.

I'm a huge advocate of the HC+800 over a Winmax W3 or W4 for your type of use as they are a little more versatile- they essentially match or exceed the abilities of a W4 on the track or very spirited touge runs yet maintain street friendliness between a W2 and W3, in my experience.

As far as brake fluid I'm partial to the really high end stuff (ENDLESS RF-650, PROJECT MU G-FOUR 335 or PERFORMANCE FRICTION RH665) but not everyone needs something so aggressive. ATE type 200 and Motul RBF-600 are by far the most popular options since they are stocked pretty much everywhere and some of the most commonly recognized names.

-Matt M.

RainyDayLeo

From what I know, the Project Mu HC+800's are a good all around pad. I use them for daily driving, track, and canyon/spirited driving. These pads can take a pretty good beating and I have yet to experience any brake fade. I am still a novice track driver so my skill level will match to these pads pretty well. If you are a serious/experienced track day driver then the PMu Club Racer pads will make more sense.

The difference between the 2 pads are the starting heat tempuratures and initial bite response. the operating temps of the HC's start at 0 and end at ～800℃. The operating temps of the CR's start at 300C and end at ～800℃. The initial bite of the HC's is stronger than stock. You will notice a difference. I dont have any experience on the CR's but from what I know they bite a bit harder than the HC's and dont break up in braking as it climbs in the temperature range. I'm not an expert on brake pads so if anyone has feedback and better info please chime in!

As far as fluids are concerned, I am running the motul RBF600 fluid. I dont think you can tell the difference between OEM and the Motul fluid but its good to to know that the Motul does have a higher dry and wet boiling point than OEM. Motul fluid is also easily attainable for me as I do not live too far away from Evasive and Ballade.

I hope this helps!
[/quote]

Nice to see someone else running this! I'm a novice as well, but even I could tell I had brake fade towards the end of the day. I daily too so it's also a safety thing.

I did Matt! Your tips helped a lot. Second to last run was quicker after the spinout. The guys in C class weren't really passing...very well on the last run. I've taken into account for a consumable like brakes. I think the pad/fluid you guys mentioned sound like they'll be perfect for my application. Always great to hear other people's experiences!

114_ap2

I agree with the HC+800 with the Motul fluid. I have never driven with that combo personally but a buddy of mines got them and has no complaints. He pretty much uses his S the same way you do. Touge, street and 2-3 track days a year.

RainyDayLeo

By the way how's the brake dust in comparison to stock AP2 pads?

dv55xc

The short answer: They dust WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY more than stock lol. They are also noticeably louder than stock but its not annoying.

With any high performance brake pad you will ALWAYS get a lot of dust. The HC+800's are no exception. However I have been able to combat the brake dust a little by applying Wheel Wax. Right now I am using Max Coat from Chemical guys. Its just a wax that goes on the wheels and helps "prevent" brake dust from sticking to the wheel. Really all the do is make your wheels easier to clean. A LOT easier to clean mind you since the brake dust does not adhere to the wheel surface after you have Max Coat or Wheel Wax.

Even though Max Coat claims to prevent up to 75% of dust, if you're running a high performance pad it will dust in hard braking situations (i.e. canyon runs and track days). There is no way around it but at least you can prevent the dust from caking on to your wheels and bonding to the wheel surface. It also always helps to have a good wheel cleaner. I have been using Sonax full effect wheel cleaner and it really takes the hard work out of cleaning your wheels.

I hope this gives you a pretty good idea as to what you'll be getting in to!

RainyDayLeo

The short answer: They dust WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY more than stock lol. They are also noticeably louder than stock but its not annoying.

With any high performance brake pad you will ALWAYS get a lot of dust. The HC+800's are no exception. However I have been able to combat the brake dust a little by applying Wheel Wax. Right now I am using Max Coat from Chemical guys. Its just a wax that goes on the wheels and helps "prevent" brake dust from sticking to the wheel. Really all the do is make your wheels easier to clean. A LOT easier to clean mind you since the brake dust does not adhere to the wheel surface after you have Max Coat or Wheel Wax.

Even though Max Coat claims to prevent up to 75% of dust, if you're running a high performance pad it will dust in hard braking situations (i.e. canyon runs and track days). There is no way around it but at least you can prevent the dust from caking on to your wheels and bonding to the wheel surface. It also always helps to have a good wheel cleaner. I have been using Sonax full effect wheel cleaner and it really takes the hard work out of cleaning your wheels.

I hope this gives you a pretty good idea as to what you'll be getting in to!
[/quote]

ROFL well. Thanks for the heads up. I hear the PMU Club Racers don't dust up that much. But I don't have a need for that pad just yet and I'd like to pair up rotors for them. That won't be for awhile. I'll keep that in mind though, that and the wheel wax!

dv55xc

The short answer: They dust WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY more than stock lol. They are also noticeably louder than stock but its not annoying.

With any high performance brake pad you will ALWAYS get a lot of dust. The HC+800's are no exception. However I have been able to combat the brake dust a little by applying Wheel Wax. Right now I am using Max Coat from Chemical guys. Its just a wax that goes on the wheels and helps "prevent" brake dust from sticking to the wheel. Really all the do is make your wheels easier to clean. A LOT easier to clean mind you since the brake dust does not adhere to the wheel surface after you have Max Coat or Wheel Wax.

Even though Max Coat claims to prevent up to 75% of dust, if you're running a high performance pad it will dust in hard braking situations (i.e. canyon runs and track days). There is no way around it but at least you can prevent the dust from caking on to your wheels and bonding to the wheel surface. It also always helps to have a good wheel cleaner. I have been using Sonax full effect wheel cleaner and it really takes the hard work out of cleaning your wheels.

I hope this gives you a pretty good idea as to what you'll be getting in to!
[/quote]

ROFL well. Thanks for the heads up. I hear the PMU Club Racers don't dust up that much. But I don't have a need for that pad just yet and I'd like to pair up rotors for them. That won't be for awhile. I'll keep that in mind though, that and the wheel wax!
[/quote]

I'm running a set of AutoZone rotors and they are holding up well. They come with a 2 year warranty so if they get warped or damaged, just bring them to your local autozone store and swap them out. Just do yourself a favor and paint the rotor caps with high temp brake paint to prevent rusting. I did that as a precaution and I am glad I did.

TofuProductions

This may sound a bit far fetched, but on my prior vehicle (06 g35 coupe) i did the Akebona BBK swap from the g37 coupes.

I since then have been quite partial to Akebono (keep in mind also, I previously owned an 04 g35 coupe 6MT - which came with factor brembos whereas my 06 did not).

When my stock pads decided to run low, I decided on MY04 I wanted pads that were low dust but decent pad life with no real tradeoff in performance.

I never really heard of akebonos being run on the S2000, but I found a set on Amazon.. put them on and ... yep.. thoroughly impressed with them. On OE rotors, FYI.

I've run numerous sets ranging from Brembo, Stoptech, EBC, Hawk, etc... Akebono has still always been my favorite. (within a mix of OE and slotted or BBK rotors)


Sidebar: to answer your question, no I never have heard of anyone that ran Winmax. I know I sound biased in my response but hope it may give you a little insight. Good luck.