Hey guys i know there is like 800000 threads on alignment specs but here is the thing... I have an ap1 lowered on neuspeed springs which lowered the car 1.25 inches all around. Now the real problem i got an alignment, well tried to get an alignment and they said that id have to raise my car back up if i wanted an alignment so i just laughed and walked out and i am yet to get an alignment. NOT GOOD! So when accelerating hard or cruising on the freeway or at higher speeds the car just feels so loose and all over the place like unstable. Has anyone else had this problem and what was wrong or what was broken? lol thanks!

I DD my car but i look forward to taking turns hard and like to drive hard sometimes but don't wanna wear out my tires like crazy like if i were to go with like a UK spec setting so what you guys think i should run, also post your set ups if you want! just bought all 4 brand new tires yesterday now wanna make them last!

I have ap2v1 wheels 215/45/17 front, 245/40/17 rear and im going to a different shop next week so lets see if i can get some answers from you guys.

One last thing can all my stock alignment stuff be able to put my alignment to OEM even when i am lowered on the springs? Do i need any aftermarket stuff to get a good alignment?


Thanks everyone for your time and responses very very appreciated!

 

You don't need any aftermarket parts to get a proper alignment. When you lower the car it naturally adds negative camber. If you are slammed then you probably can't get back to stock spec, but with your drop it won't be a problem. UK spec sounds perfect for you, there should be no issue dialing that in. Your toe is likely way out of spec right now which could contribute to the unstable feeling but check your tire pressure also.

 

OMG

 

To the OP: A reputable alignment shop should have no problem aligning your car.

 

Yo 1nate7 thanks for the straight answer not other comments! After that said thanks for answering everything and i was wondering what is the exact benefit of doing the uk spec, what is the difference over stock spec performance wise! Thanks dude for everything.

 

I just had my first high performance alignment done. It's the same as a regular alignment but you chose your own specs. If you want excellent handling outof a stock suspension, ask for full negative camber up front (-1.9 was my max) and -2.5 rear. This gives you tremendous grip when cornering. If you want straight line tracking and stability, you need negative toe in the rear. I specified -1/8 total in the rear, zero up front, and max caster front and rear. No more tramlining on concrete freeways or bump steer.

 

so for the cornering set up that you said just stick with 0 toe? thanks dude

 

Bump anyone else have an idea? Thanks

 

max camber front
max caster front
0 toe front (maybe a touch toe out)

.2-.3 more camber rear
touch of toe in rear

thank me later.

 

Without a big FSB, I recommend more than a touch of rear toe. Start somewhere around 3/16" total toe in. Adjust from there depending on whether you want more or less rotation.