Bleeding brakes - fluid seeping from valve threads
#1
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Bleeding brakes - fluid seeping from valve threads
Hi,
Need some advice please...
I'm trying to change my brake fluid. First and only problem so far is that when I loosen the bleed valve (half turn or less) fluid is coming out via the threads as well as via the nipple. I think this is also letting air into the bleed tube so cannot get the bubbles out.
Any ideas how I can progress please?
Regards
Stuart
Need some advice please...
I'm trying to change my brake fluid. First and only problem so far is that when I loosen the bleed valve (half turn or less) fluid is coming out via the threads as well as via the nipple. I think this is also letting air into the bleed tube so cannot get the bubbles out.
Any ideas how I can progress please?
Regards
Stuart
#2
Doesn't really matter , a little fluid is ok. Trying warming the brakes a bit so the fluid flows easier and maybe open the bleeder less. As long as fluid is coming out no air is going in. Proper tube sizing as well so it is not pinched or stretched also. Once you see clean and clear and no air coming out of bleeder your ok
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Thanks Starchland.
Went ahead as you suggested, plus did it as two man job so that I could close off the valve while fluid was still flowing, so no air in.
Now all good. Brakes much "tighter"
Best regards
Went ahead as you suggested, plus did it as two man job so that I could close off the valve while fluid was still flowing, so no air in.
Now all good. Brakes much "tighter"
Best regards
#5
For the next guy reading this with the same problem, you could remove bleeder completely, apply some teflon tape, reinstall. This will seal the threads so now when you bleed brakes no air leaks. Now its a one man operation.
But an even better idea is to follow the gravity bleed method (search for the diy on this forum). With this method no pumping is used, so it doesn't matter if bleeders leak air. You just crack open one bleeder at a time, and wait for it to flow fresh, clean fluid (this method changes your brake fluid at the same time). You have to male very certain not to let MC run dry, and you need to follow the correct sequence of which wheel to do next (start passenger front, work counter-clockwise).
But an even better idea is to follow the gravity bleed method (search for the diy on this forum). With this method no pumping is used, so it doesn't matter if bleeders leak air. You just crack open one bleeder at a time, and wait for it to flow fresh, clean fluid (this method changes your brake fluid at the same time). You have to male very certain not to let MC run dry, and you need to follow the correct sequence of which wheel to do next (start passenger front, work counter-clockwise).
#6
The brake system was not designed to be used with Teflon tape. It seems like a recipe for disaster.
If the proper bleed technique is used, air will not be ingested anyway at the caliper end, anywhere.
If the proper bleed technique is used, air will not be ingested anyway at the caliper end, anywhere.
#7
Chillax. The suggestion was to use the teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads, not the brake hose threads. The bleeder screw threads are not part of the pressurized brake plumbing.
The bleeder flare seals the bleeder when its tightened, not the threads. All the tape does is making pressurized bleeding not suck air.
Some bleeder screws even come with a coating of thread sealant applied for this very reason (speedbleeders).
The bleeder flare seals the bleeder when its tightened, not the threads. All the tape does is making pressurized bleeding not suck air.
Some bleeder screws even come with a coating of thread sealant applied for this very reason (speedbleeders).
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#8
Yes the bleeder screw we are talking.
If you are adding Teflon tape to a system not designed for it to fix something that is of non-issue, but yet creating another issue doesn't make sense. You are now adding something which was never intended to be there. So if the bleeder screws are not part of the system why does fluid come out when opened and pressure in the system :s
Adding mass to the threads will change the point and location of where the torque is applied to that bleeder. Factor in heat and cooling cycles and just make sure you give people a disclaimer
If you are adding Teflon tape to a system not designed for it to fix something that is of non-issue, but yet creating another issue doesn't make sense. You are now adding something which was never intended to be there. So if the bleeder screws are not part of the system why does fluid come out when opened and pressure in the system :s
Adding mass to the threads will change the point and location of where the torque is applied to that bleeder. Factor in heat and cooling cycles and just make sure you give people a disclaimer
#10
Yes the bleeder screw we are talking.
If you are adding Teflon tape to a system not designed for it to fix something that is of non-issue, but yet creating another issue doesn't make sense. You are now adding something which was never intended to be there. So if the bleeder screws are not part of the system why does fluid come out when opened and pressure in the system :s
Adding mass to the threads will change the point and location of where the torque is applied to that bleeder. Factor in heat and cooling cycles and just make sure you give people a disclaimer
If you are adding Teflon tape to a system not designed for it to fix something that is of non-issue, but yet creating another issue doesn't make sense. You are now adding something which was never intended to be there. So if the bleeder screws are not part of the system why does fluid come out when opened and pressure in the system :s
Adding mass to the threads will change the point and location of where the torque is applied to that bleeder. Factor in heat and cooling cycles and just make sure you give people a disclaimer
As already stated, some bleeders come with a coating for this. You can buy this type of coating to accomplish this as well.