I would raise the front 1/4". You will want to make it right before getting an alignment. I messed with mine 5 different times before I was completely satisfied with heights. And now I am selling my coilovers haha.

 

I ended up with 6 full threads showing on the LF, 5 on the RF. 2 on the LR and 1 on the RR. Everything is JUST under 13" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender lip. The only thing that's NOT is the RR. It's about 13 3/8". I'm not sure that lowering it one thread on the coiover is going to give me 3/8" - in fact, I am sure it won't. I may need to RAISE the LR a bit and lower the RR at the same time. What's interesting is that you can't detect it with the naked eye when standing behind the car, etc. So...may just leave it be.

I have a feeling that an alignment is going to be very tricky on it now. I had to use a small jack in order to get it up onto my larger jack.

It's back on jacks as I prepare for the fluid change. It won't come out of storage until May anyway, so I have time. Thanks again for the help - I will get some photos up soon.

Thanks,
Shumax

 

thanks for the info, cant wait to see the pics! For an alignment just find a competent shop and ask around your area to see which shop has done previous alignments on s2ks. If you can, find a shop with an open bay so that you do not have to drive up a steep ramp. Also you do not have to remove the wheel from the car during an alignment if that is what you are assuming, all tires stay on the vehicle during an alignment.

 

That's pretty low for Bilsteins. How much bump travel do you have with it at those ride heights? At a 13.25" ride height, I was contacting the bump stops quite often. You can put zip ties on the damper shafts to see how far the dampers are traveling when you drive around. If they're contacting the bump stops lightly, it's not a big deal. If you're getting into them pretty hard, the bump stops can cause a pretty dramatic increase in effective spring rate and cause that tire to lose traction when turning or braking.

Unless you are on a leveled surface, you'll notice changes in your corner heights (and subsequently, your corner weights). It's fairly pointless to adjust the perches to yield even corner heights unless you're on a surface that you've measured and know to be fairly flat. Concrete slabs may look flat but can be quite wavy when you look at them a little closer.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I'm curious why you suggest this? I'm now at 13" all around except the RR which is 13 3/8". I plan to mess with it some more, I know.

In effect, it's a rather snug 1 finger gap in the front and a rather loose one finger gap in the rear.

Thanks,
Shumax

 

Interesting. Do you know how many threads you had showing to achieve 13.25"? I'm trying to determine where others' are based on the number of threads showing. I think I'll likely raise the front up a bit more as it does look a bit "dumped." I drove it a few miles on some rough road and it wasn't bottoming out a bit. Nor was it bouncing around. Firm, but it felt a lot like stock, honestly.

Thanks,
Shumax

 

I had more threads on the front than the rear, that's all I remember. I only used my PSSs with the Bilstein springs for ~1 week before modifying them and running stiffer rates. I also opted to use the Honda bump stops over the Bilstein bump stops, as they looked to be more progressive in spring rate than the Bilstein ones - purely a qualitative observation. I never measured the stiffness of either bump stop.

 

hey nmrado, were you contacting the bumpstops during regular driving or at the autox/track? Currently im at 13inches from the fender to center cap in the front and 13.25inches in the rear (no more adjustment left)and ive been over some serious dips at around 85mph and have not hit the bumpstops yet (i scraped the front wind deflector/front mudgaurds pretty good)? Dont we have to remove the dust covers in order to put the zip ties on the damper shaft in order to measure distance travelled?

 

The only street driving my car sees is before an event to make sure it's all running/working correctly and short drives to local auto-x and lapping events. I contacted the bump stops during street driving and track lapping. I never used the off-the-shelf PSSs at an auto-x.

I left the dust covers off and installed zip ties on the shafts. I think you'll find that you're contacting the bump stops much more often than you think you are. My stock setup hit the bump stops quite often, as well. The progressive nature of the bump stop keeps it from feeling like an abrupt contact. My current bump stops are much thinner and firmer than the stock or Bilstein stops. I crossed an overpass on an interstate one time while driving it back from an event and nearly lost control of the car because of how hard the rear came in contact with the bump stops.

 

No I am wondering if I should raise everything up to like 13.75"?