How about $20 rotors?
10-11-2017, 04:13 PM
#31
i ordered some super cheap rotors once. They were <10 each plus shipping. THey cracked on track within 2 sessions. Would they be fine for DD yes, go for it. For track lowest i would go would be Centrics/Autozone/Napa/Etc for 25-40 a pop. Those typically last me a weekendish
On my CR with DTC 60s all around my rotors will last at least through 1.75 sets of pads. And this year, we haven't gotten a day under 90. On my ap2 with the WASP ducts, my pad life went from 4 weekends/10 days to about 6-7 weekends and the cracking issue all but stopped - the rotors get torn up but don't crack and I toss them after 2 sets of pads as well.
It's all about heat management, cool down laps and some paddock cruising right after a session.
Definitely, get off that pad stagger if you are on a stock master cylinder or ABS. Now if you have deleted abs and some fancy brake bias controller, all bets are off.
10-12-2017, 10:56 AM
#32
I don't know what cheap ass rotor you guys are using, but they should last longer than 2 sessions.
On my CR with DTC 60s all around my rotors will last at least through 1.75 sets of pads. And this year, we haven't gotten a day under 90. On my ap2 with the WASP ducts, my pad life went from 4 weekends/10 days to about 6-7 weekends and the cracking issue all but stopped - the rotors get torn up but don't crack and I toss them after 2 sets of pads as well.
It's all about heat management, cool down laps and some paddock cruising right after a session.
Definitely, get off that pad stagger if you are on a stock master cylinder or ABS. Now if you have deleted abs and some fancy brake bias controller, all bets are off.
On my CR with DTC 60s all around my rotors will last at least through 1.75 sets of pads. And this year, we haven't gotten a day under 90. On my ap2 with the WASP ducts, my pad life went from 4 weekends/10 days to about 6-7 weekends and the cracking issue all but stopped - the rotors get torn up but don't crack and I toss them after 2 sets of pads as well.
It's all about heat management, cool down laps and some paddock cruising right after a session.
Definitely, get off that pad stagger if you are on a stock master cylinder or ABS. Now if you have deleted abs and some fancy brake bias controller, all bets are off.
I trail brake heavily so with too much pad out back it bakes the car too loose, I have tried it. I run 60/30 and have ran 70/30's before. I have 2.5" brake ducts I built. When I first put them on they stopped my cracking rotors for a bit but once I started getting even quicker they started popping again. I do a full cool down lap and push the car in impound a few times. Cant drive around grid due to TT impound and instructing. The best thing I've done for brakes in Girodisks. Those lasted me about 15 days before they cracked. even then its just a tiny hairline that cant be felt. I bet another weekend could be pulled out of them with care. I pulled them as preventative before they let go. Replacements just suck at ~400 a set.
If you're not cracking rotors regularly on OEM calipers you are; not going fast enough, not running a sticky tire, not running wide front tires, and/or using 2 piece rotors.
10-17-2017, 05:10 PM
#33
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The el cheapo rotors that made it 2 sessions were some off brand internet find. Figured for $10 why the **** not. Was an interesting test lol. I typically run Autozones and those will last a weekend or two. My front pads last 4-6 weekend and rear are about double that.
I trail brake heavily so with too much pad out back it bakes the car too loose, I have tried it. I run 60/30 and have ran 70/30's before. I have 2.5" brake ducts I built. When I first put them on they stopped my cracking rotors for a bit but once I started getting even quicker they started popping again. I do a full cool down lap and push the car in impound a few times. Cant drive around grid due to TT impound and instructing. The best thing I've done for brakes in Girodisks. Those lasted me about 15 days before they cracked. even then its just a tiny hairline that cant be felt. I bet another weekend could be pulled out of them with care. I pulled them as preventative before they let go. Replacements just suck at ~400 a set.
If you're not cracking rotors regularly on OEM calipers you are; not going fast enough, not running a sticky tire, not running wide front tires, and/or using 2 piece rotors.
I trail brake heavily so with too much pad out back it bakes the car too loose, I have tried it. I run 60/30 and have ran 70/30's before. I have 2.5" brake ducts I built. When I first put them on they stopped my cracking rotors for a bit but once I started getting even quicker they started popping again. I do a full cool down lap and push the car in impound a few times. Cant drive around grid due to TT impound and instructing. The best thing I've done for brakes in Girodisks. Those lasted me about 15 days before they cracked. even then its just a tiny hairline that cant be felt. I bet another weekend could be pulled out of them with care. I pulled them as preventative before they let go. Replacements just suck at ~400 a set.
If you're not cracking rotors regularly on OEM calipers you are; not going fast enough, not running a sticky tire, not running wide front tires, and/or using 2 piece rotors.
10-19-2017, 08:48 AM
#34
Registered User
Not to derail things here, but does anyone on here have experience with Centric Cryogenic blank rotors? I have had the Centric non-cryo blanks on my S2000 for the past 4 years and they just feel a bit rough. I used OEM Honda pads and did the rotor break in procedure. I should mention that the car is only exposed to stop and go traffic, never has been tracked.
10-19-2017, 09:04 AM
#35
Not to derail things here, but does anyone on here have experience with Centric Cryogenic blank rotors? I have had the Centric non-cryo blanks on my S2000 for the past 4 years and they just feel a bit rough. I used OEM Honda pads and did the rotor break in procedure. I should mention that the car is only exposed to stop and go traffic, never has been tracked.
What does this mean?
"just feel a bit rough"
The advantage to cryogenic treatment is that it alleviates stresses an makes the rotors less likely to crack. Cast iron has tons of carbon...so its beneficial to cryo treat cast irons that will see shock loading (rotors do not), or largely varying thermal loading (track rotors do).
They shouldn't feel any different. They wont resist pad smear (commonly referred to as warped rotors), and they won't appreciably resist ACTUAL warping from physical loads derived from lug torque issues or hub plane issues.
FWIW, the factory rotors are not cyro treated. But I believe the factory rotor planes are thicker than aftermarket replacement planes.
In short:
Hell no, there will be virtually no benefit to using cryo treated rotors on your street car.
Cast iron rotors are cast at like 3000F. It melts at like 2500F. Stock pads and most street pads are rated for *maybe* 800F. Something to keep in mind.
Pay more attention to pads than you would rotors...especially for street use.
10-19-2017, 09:49 AM
#36
Registered User
What does this mean?
"just feel a bit rough"
The advantage to cryogenic treatment is that it alleviates stresses an makes the rotors less likely to crack. Cast iron has tons of carbon...so its beneficial to cryo treat cast irons that will see shock loading (rotors do not), or largely varying thermal loading (track rotors do).
They shouldn't feel any different. They wont resist pad smear (commonly referred to as warped rotors), and they won't appreciably resist ACTUAL warping from physical loads derived from lug torque issues or hub plane issues.
FWIW, the factory rotors are not cyro treated. But I believe the factory rotor planes are thicker than aftermarket replacement planes.
In short:
Hell no, there will be virtually no benefit to using cryo treated rotors on your street car.
Cast iron rotors are cast at like 3000F. It melts at like 2500F. Stock pads and most street pads are rated for *maybe* 800F. Something to keep in mind.
Pay more attention to pads than you would rotors...especially for street use.
"just feel a bit rough"
The advantage to cryogenic treatment is that it alleviates stresses an makes the rotors less likely to crack. Cast iron has tons of carbon...so its beneficial to cryo treat cast irons that will see shock loading (rotors do not), or largely varying thermal loading (track rotors do).
They shouldn't feel any different. They wont resist pad smear (commonly referred to as warped rotors), and they won't appreciably resist ACTUAL warping from physical loads derived from lug torque issues or hub plane issues.
FWIW, the factory rotors are not cyro treated. But I believe the factory rotor planes are thicker than aftermarket replacement planes.
In short:
Hell no, there will be virtually no benefit to using cryo treated rotors on your street car.
Cast iron rotors are cast at like 3000F. It melts at like 2500F. Stock pads and most street pads are rated for *maybe* 800F. Something to keep in mind.
Pay more attention to pads than you would rotors...especially for street use.
My apologies. I guess "feels a bit rough" does sound vague now that I have read it again. What I mean is, when I apply the brakes moderately, it feels like there is some slight warp in the rotor. It's not enough to shake the steering wheel.
I think when I had bedded in the brakes, some pad material may have gotten unevenly distributed on the rotors. I'll look into pads. Appreciate the info.
10-19-2017, 09:53 AM
#37
Thanks for your quick reply.
My apologies. I guess "feels a bit rough" does sound vague now that I have read it again. What I mean is, when I apply the brakes moderately, it feels like there is some slight warp in the rotor. It's not enough to shake the steering wheel.
I think when I had bedded in the brake pads, some pad material may have gotten unevenly distributed on the rotor. I'll look into pads. Appreciate the info.
My apologies. I guess "feels a bit rough" does sound vague now that I have read it again. What I mean is, when I apply the brakes moderately, it feels like there is some slight warp in the rotor. It's not enough to shake the steering wheel.
I think when I had bedded in the brake pads, some pad material may have gotten unevenly distributed on the rotor. I'll look into pads. Appreciate the info.
NP. You may have some deposits. Or it may just be time for new brakes.
My go-to pads for street use are Raybestos EHT or Stoptech Sport. They dust a bit. But...dust washes off.
The Raybestos have more cold bite...but the Stoptechs have slightly better pedal feel. I'd probably pick the Raybestos for slow speed stop/go use where the brakes aren't really getting hot.
I would avoid general use ceramic pads...including the factory pads.
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Inspired (10-19-2017)
10-19-2017, 10:18 AM
#38
Community Organizer
Thanks for your quick reply.
My apologies. I guess "feels a bit rough" does sound vague now that I have read it again. What I mean is, when I apply the brakes moderately, it feels like there is some slight warp in the rotor. It's not enough to shake the steering wheel.
I think when I had bedded in the brakes, some pad material may have gotten unevenly distributed on the rotors. I'll look into pads. Appreciate the info.
My apologies. I guess "feels a bit rough" does sound vague now that I have read it again. What I mean is, when I apply the brakes moderately, it feels like there is some slight warp in the rotor. It's not enough to shake the steering wheel.
I think when I had bedded in the brakes, some pad material may have gotten unevenly distributed on the rotors. I'll look into pads. Appreciate the info.
The following users liked this post:
Inspired (10-19-2017)
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