KWV3 is too low
03-18-2016, 05:16 PM
#1
Thread Starter
KWV3 is too low
Just installed my KWV3s tonight and the car is too low for my liking.
On the drivers side I have 1.25 finger gap, but on the passenger side it is just a one finger gap. I cannot get it any higher than it is now. The helper spring is completely compressed and I couldn't get the adjuster to turn anymore. I am using stock top-hats and they are installed at the same level for both sides.
Is this how low they usually sit? I was hoping to have the car close to stock height.
Any help would be appreciated.
On the drivers side I have 1.25 finger gap, but on the passenger side it is just a one finger gap. I cannot get it any higher than it is now. The helper spring is completely compressed and I couldn't get the adjuster to turn anymore. I am using stock top-hats and they are installed at the same level for both sides.
Is this how low they usually sit? I was hoping to have the car close to stock height.
Any help would be appreciated.
03-18-2016, 07:39 PM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are you using the wrench supplied with the coilovers or are you using your hands? Are you maxed out in terms of threads for the coilovers collars? When I installed them I only dropped the car an inah and I had a lot more room to go up. I think you can get them pretty close to stock height.
03-18-2016, 07:53 PM
#3
A "1.25" finger gap is about 1 inch lower than stock.
Don't adjust them higher than what KW recommends. If you preload the spring too much, it will ride more harshly. Though the dampers should be able to control a little bit of extra spring force.
Don't adjust them higher than what KW recommends. If you preload the spring too much, it will ride more harshly. Though the dampers should be able to control a little bit of extra spring force.
Trending Topics
03-19-2016, 09:03 AM
#8
He's saying he is high enough that the helpers are fully compressed with the wheels off the ground.
Yes, OP, as I had mentioned, you can only preload the springs from this point on to go higher. The shock is at its maximum starting position.
Coilovers don't typically allow you to get back to stock height. They need to be shortened a bit in order to lower the car and have enough travel left.
If it makes you feel better, the stock springs are slightly preloaded.
The shocks can handle a little extra force from the preload. Don't go crazy, though.
You *may* need an extra rebound click on the shock setting once you're done.
Yes, OP, as I had mentioned, you can only preload the springs from this point on to go higher. The shock is at its maximum starting position.
Coilovers don't typically allow you to get back to stock height. They need to be shortened a bit in order to lower the car and have enough travel left.
If it makes you feel better, the stock springs are slightly preloaded.
The shocks can handle a little extra force from the preload. Don't go crazy, though.
You *may* need an extra rebound click on the shock setting once you're done.
03-22-2016, 09:22 AM
#9
did you follow the KW instructions on how to measure the setup of the shock? start with the minimum lowering (it should be only like .5" lower than stock)
read page 3:
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras/...ah68650005.pdf
the helper/tender springs should be fully compressed no matter what, their only job is essentially to act as a spacer and prevent the main spring from losing their seating.
when I install KW coilovers (which are the worlds easiest suspension to install on any car because of the copious documentation available from the manufacturer)I typically set the static length of the coilover on all 4 corners at the minimum lowering height (longest overall length for the coilover).
after that; each corner is probably carrying a different load so I corner balance after installation.
read page 3:
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras/...ah68650005.pdf
the helper/tender springs should be fully compressed no matter what, their only job is essentially to act as a spacer and prevent the main spring from losing their seating.
when I install KW coilovers (which are the worlds easiest suspension to install on any car because of the copious documentation available from the manufacturer)I typically set the static length of the coilover on all 4 corners at the minimum lowering height (longest overall length for the coilover).
after that; each corner is probably carrying a different load so I corner balance after installation.
03-22-2016, 09:30 AM
#10
KW refers to the minimum drop as "max" measurement, IIRC.
The helpers don't need to be fully compressed at all times no matter what. They just need to be in contact with both, the main spring, and tophat so that the main spring does not go fully loose on full extension.
Even though you will likely never fully extend the shock while the car is on the road. Unless you're lifting a wheel for a long time (turning), or hanging a LOT of air time.
The helpers don't need to be fully compressed at all times no matter what. They just need to be in contact with both, the main spring, and tophat so that the main spring does not go fully loose on full extension.
Even though you will likely never fully extend the shock while the car is on the road. Unless you're lifting a wheel for a long time (turning), or hanging a LOT of air time.