Looking for Brakes and Rotors
#1
Looking for Brakes and Rotors
I recently purchased a 2002 S, and I'm loving it. A few weeks ago, I went out with the local S2k club for a drive, which consisted of fairly brisk driving on some curvy roads. About 1/2 way through our trip, I noticed some significant brake fade. I think I want to get some upgraded rotors and pads.
My S is my daily driver, and I do a lot of backroad driving (never above the speed limit, of course!) I will do some solo and maybe a track day or two, so track performance isn't as important as overall usability. I would like to go with drilled rotors for heat dissipation (perhaps slotted) with some good pads that don't squeal too much and release minimal break dust.
I see a ton of options out there, and I'm considering the StopTech Cryo-SportStop Drilled Rotor. I'd like to keep the rotors under $100 each and the pads to less than $150 for the front and back sets.
Can any of you make some suggestions based on your experience?
Thanks!
Steve
My S is my daily driver, and I do a lot of backroad driving (never above the speed limit, of course!) I will do some solo and maybe a track day or two, so track performance isn't as important as overall usability. I would like to go with drilled rotors for heat dissipation (perhaps slotted) with some good pads that don't squeal too much and release minimal break dust.
I see a ton of options out there, and I'm considering the StopTech Cryo-SportStop Drilled Rotor. I'd like to keep the rotors under $100 each and the pads to less than $150 for the front and back sets.
Can any of you make some suggestions based on your experience?
Thanks!
Steve
#2
Registered User
You simply need better pads. Keep your OEM rotors or pick up some cheap blanks (centric premium) and look into stoptech street sport, if you want something more aggressive for track check out project mu hc 800pads.
Drilled rotors suck and are purely for looks, they will crack much sooner if you ever take your car to a track.
Oh and don't forget to flush your fluid with at least ATE superblue/type 200 or better
Drilled rotors suck and are purely for looks, they will crack much sooner if you ever take your car to a track.
Oh and don't forget to flush your fluid with at least ATE superblue/type 200 or better
#3
damn I wish my budget for rotors were that high!!!
But I use centric rotors and carbotech xp10/8. My car is mostly track use however and not a daily, but with properly bedded carbotech pads they should be okay for daily and some track use
But I use centric rotors and carbotech xp10/8. My car is mostly track use however and not a daily, but with properly bedded carbotech pads they should be okay for daily and some track use
#4
Former Sponsor
Look into the new Project Mu NS400 pads. They slot in right between the Hawk HPS and HP+ but with minimal dusting. They are what I would run on a daily/fun drive/auto x car. Before they came out, I would recommend the HP+, but they are loud and dust a lot. The HPS, Ive felt, are not even as good as the OEM pads for certain tasks.
OEM rotors work just fine - we use them on the time attack car as well as on numerous other customers cars, as well as our personal cars. We really like the Centric Premium rotors - great quality and they seemed to last longer on track than other brands.
If you're looking to save some money, just go with some upgraded pads and a fluid flush. If you really want to do it right and its in the budget, do stainless steel lines and add in some new rotors.
If we can help with anything, let us know.
Austin
GT Motoring
OEM rotors work just fine - we use them on the time attack car as well as on numerous other customers cars, as well as our personal cars. We really like the Centric Premium rotors - great quality and they seemed to last longer on track than other brands.
If you're looking to save some money, just go with some upgraded pads and a fluid flush. If you really want to do it right and its in the budget, do stainless steel lines and add in some new rotors.
If we can help with anything, let us know.
Austin
GT Motoring
#5
Did you buy the car from an enthusiast or a normal person. If it was a normal person, chances are they had the brake pads replaced with inferior brake pads (wearever, wagner ect). The oem pads are pretty good. You would have to be driving very aggressively to fade them in a few turns. My recommendation is pretty much on par with everyone else's. Stick with oem or centric premium rotors, the drilled/slotted are overpriced and cannot be resurfaced if need be. Get some oem pads, stainless lines and flush your brake fluid. Use oem Honda fluid if you do not want to use ate superblue/ amber 200 or another high performance brake fluid. Then if you choose to start tracking- pick up a dedicated track setup of centric rotors and aggressive pads.
#6
Thanks for your responses, everyone. If you think that the standard rotors are good, I'll stick with them and try new pads, lines, and fluid for now. I can always do the rotors later if I'm still getting too much fade.
Steve
Steve
#7
Registered User
FWIW, I've never gotten brake fade on the street, on stock pads and rotors. Make sure your brake fluid is less than a year old, and DOT4. You may be feeling air in the lines.
For rotors, get Centric blanks, that's all you need, drilled/slotted rotors aren't worth the extra money.
For rotors, get Centric blanks, that's all you need, drilled/slotted rotors aren't worth the extra money.
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#8
Moderator
if I could do it all over again....centric premiums with ferodo ds2500 pads. Perfect street/light track setup imho. I dont see a point in drilled rotors as it compromises the integrity of the rotor.
#10
+1 for the centric Premium rotors. Make sure you get the PREMIUM rotor and not the cheap standard one. Also upgrade the brake fluid and follow the DIY for the gravity bleed. Most people recommend ATE Super Blue, and for $15-$20 a liter it's a no brainier. No comment on the pads as I just replaced mine with OEM AP2's.