Are normal Ohlins good enough?
10-17-2022, 11:05 AM
#11
if you're gonna drop ohlins long stroke money, why not consider karceps 2way non remotes in the str package, you're within a few hundred dollars.
if you want singles, the karcepts mcs singles track package is actually less than the ohlins long strokes.
if you want singles, the karcepts mcs singles track package is actually less than the ohlins long strokes.
10-17-2022, 03:10 PM
#13
10-17-2022, 03:54 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
I’ve watched a YouTube about rebuilding a pair of PSS9s. Can’t say they were for an S2000, wasn’t mentioned. From what I could see, there was only a single washer stack, assuming for compression only. This seems to be the way our stock shocks are valved also. I notice that any drop off results in a bang. I also got a look at the damping “adjuster” of the Bilsteins. Now I see why people say they are hard to dial in. Basically covering/uncovering a hole in the shaft as you rotate the adjuster. Zero linearity to the adjustment. More a Bell Curve.
I believe I’m going to go with the regular Ohlins but sprung 10k/10k. I am a bit concerned about roads like route 28 from Deals Gap to Fontana Village. Pothole patch upon patch with an undulating surface to boot. Strangely, it’s a road that I think the stock suspension really shines on. Slow, it bangs and hammers but pick up the pace and the stockers soak it up admirably. It even seems unexplainably quiet when at speed on that road. You don’t get a road like that often, but when you do, I’d hate to be banging off bump stops.
Appreciate everyone’s input, going to research what is the best way to buy them, with the springs already on or separate so I have spare parts to experiment with. So, I’ll be a few days yet if anyone wants to weigh in.
I believe I’m going to go with the regular Ohlins but sprung 10k/10k. I am a bit concerned about roads like route 28 from Deals Gap to Fontana Village. Pothole patch upon patch with an undulating surface to boot. Strangely, it’s a road that I think the stock suspension really shines on. Slow, it bangs and hammers but pick up the pace and the stockers soak it up admirably. It even seems unexplainably quiet when at speed on that road. You don’t get a road like that often, but when you do, I’d hate to be banging off bump stops.
Appreciate everyone’s input, going to research what is the best way to buy them, with the springs already on or separate so I have spare parts to experiment with. So, I’ll be a few days yet if anyone wants to weigh in.
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noodels (10-17-2022)
10-17-2022, 04:35 PM
#17
Work well on the UK B roads 10k with stagger tyre on mine also
10-17-2022, 04:43 PM
#18
10/10k springs will have the benefit of requiring less preload, though it sounds like you don't intend to go very low in the first place. With the 10k springs in the back you will feel bumps more vs 8k springs because that's the end of the car you sit over, though Ohlins do a good job soaking up pot holes anyways and the extra stiffness will make hitting the bump stops less likely.
A tangent, be careful as there may still be two different kits floating around in warehouses at this time. When Ohlins updated to HOS MI21 revision they initially changed to an 11/7k spring setup however it seems like they quickly changed back to the 10/8k setup after realizing it was a bad match. I imagine most kits are 10/8k kits now as it has been sometime since the switch however there may still be a few 11/7k kits wandering around. I got my set early on when they made the switch back to 10/8k and I had to confirm with an Ohlins rep which springs I had based on the serial numbers printed on them; the manual still listed 11/7k springs. The 8k springs had easily decipherable serial numbers to make out what they were however my 10k springs had mismatched serials which looked like they were pulled from a parts bin. Either way you'll have to buy additional springs to get the 10/10k setup. Places like SBG may slide you a deal if you purchase with them.
A tangent, be careful as there may still be two different kits floating around in warehouses at this time. When Ohlins updated to HOS MI21 revision they initially changed to an 11/7k spring setup however it seems like they quickly changed back to the 10/8k setup after realizing it was a bad match. I imagine most kits are 10/8k kits now as it has been sometime since the switch however there may still be a few 11/7k kits wandering around. I got my set early on when they made the switch back to 10/8k and I had to confirm with an Ohlins rep which springs I had based on the serial numbers printed on them; the manual still listed 11/7k springs. The 8k springs had easily decipherable serial numbers to make out what they were however my 10k springs had mismatched serials which looked like they were pulled from a parts bin. Either way you'll have to buy additional springs to get the 10/10k setup. Places like SBG may slide you a deal if you purchase with them.
10-17-2022, 04:44 PM
#19
He's referring to Ohlins' 3rd bypass path. DFV.
It pretty much "deletes" harsh cracks and roughness by just bypassing fluid at a certain piston speed while keeping the base damping simultaneously for slower movements.
Key word is simultaneously.
A lot of shocks have "blow off" valves to bypass extremely high speed movement. But not the same functionality as Ohlins. It takes them some portion of a second to recover from that event.
That's how I understand the DFV...and in real life, the Ohlins do actually do a really good job of deleting out all the really high speed chatter.
It pretty much "deletes" harsh cracks and roughness by just bypassing fluid at a certain piston speed while keeping the base damping simultaneously for slower movements.
Key word is simultaneously.
A lot of shocks have "blow off" valves to bypass extremely high speed movement. But not the same functionality as Ohlins. It takes them some portion of a second to recover from that event.
That's how I understand the DFV...and in real life, the Ohlins do actually do a really good job of deleting out all the really high speed chatter.
10-18-2022, 09:22 AM
#20
100000000%. I also live in Western PA (outside of Pittsburgh) and have had Ohlins DFVs for a couple years now. One of the best things I ever did for the car. I have Ohlins DFV, Swift 12k/10k springs and the Urge Designs rear lower cups to get the correct travel out of the rear.
I can set the ride to caddy soft all the way to extreme uncomfortable stiff for track days and everything in between. I've regretted not one single moment with my Ohlins.
Do it Do it Do it. It more than takes the edge off of all the roads and such around here, and gives you so much more control over the car. It no longer gets unsettled by all the road imperfections, nor do you have to wince and brace yourself for those bumps/expansion joints.. I know you know what I mean! Ha.
I can set the ride to caddy soft all the way to extreme uncomfortable stiff for track days and everything in between. I've regretted not one single moment with my Ohlins.
Do it Do it Do it. It more than takes the edge off of all the roads and such around here, and gives you so much more control over the car. It no longer gets unsettled by all the road imperfections, nor do you have to wince and brace yourself for those bumps/expansion joints.. I know you know what I mean! Ha.