any suspension mod and you will more than likely be getting an alignment...

 

Changing your sway bars will not require a realignment.

 

anyone know if the tanabe front bars are solid or hollow? i'm thinking of going with the tanabe front bar and ap2 rear bar on my 00' ap1.

 

Any recommendations for my car with the things in my sig?

I autox and road course.

 

Do luck FTW

 

Anyone running a whiteline swaybar at front ? Im thinking of upgrading the front swaybar to whiteline, en leaving the rear stock.

I have a 01 AP1

 

I just bought a set of '00 sway bars from someone in the for sale forums and I got a 31.8 front bar and a 27.2 rear bar.

You don't think I could have possibly gotten a mugen bar do you? I measured this with a caliper on the middle of the bar.

 

I'm running a Whiteline on my AP2, made a massive difference in cornering speeds and the ass end feels much more planted. Best mod (that actually does something) money can buy.

 

Since I haven't seen any recent posts about the Saner FSB, I'll throw this out there.

After reading lots of mixed reviews such as clanking on early models of the swaybar and waiting for months after ordering I was a bit skeptical about buying one. IMO for the price of $275 shipped, nothing else comes close for what I was looking for. So I went ahead and ordered one.

Judy was quick to respond to my emails, let me know that they were out of endlinks and wouldn't be able to ship for a few days. So I waited a week and ordered one. It showed up 4 days later. I am very impressed with the quality of the packaging and included hardware. I am looking forward to installing it in the next month or so when I take my S2000 out of storage.

I will be autocrossing it in mid April and attending a few HPDE's starting in May. I will update this thread if I have an clanking issues

 

Wow, there is a lot of varying information in this thread.

If you want to figure out about how stiff one bar is compared to another, you need to look at the Polar Moment of Inertia of the bar center section.

The formula for this is:

J = pi * (OD^4) / 32 <-- for solid bars

J = pi * (OD^4 - ID^4) / 32 <-- for hollow bars

pi = 3.14159
OD = outer diameter
ID = inner diameter

When you compare the J values for each different bar, you can determine relative stiffnesses. This approach has some flaws - it assumes the lengths of the piece in torsion are equal and it assumes the ends (lever arms) are the same length. Some of the bars have multiple mounting holes for the end links. That is how they effectively increase or decrease the stiffness of the bars. The actual stiffness of the bar doesn't change, the length of the lever arm applying the torque changes.

If you run the numbers for the '00 FSB compared to the CR FSB, they're nearly identical. For MY00-01 owners, you have NO reason to switch to a CR bar.

I have a decent amount of experience with the Saner bar. For the money you can't go wrong. I received the "updated" endlinks and they still clack like crazy...it's a characteristic of the actual spherical bearings. If that's going to bother you, I'd recommend a different FSB.

For auto-x with v710s, the Saner bar on full stiff was not stiff enough. I decided to add a 4th mounting hole to each side, farther forward of the 3 original holes. Here is a writeup I made detailing that process -

Modifying a Saner FSB

Hope that helps everyone with their quest to find the perfect bars. Gendron and ARE bars are awesome, in my opinion, and I wish I had gone with one of those from the beginning.

Cheers