For those who run a Saner, what purpose do the spacers for the sway bar mount provide? Is it only for clearance on the steering boot or something else?

 

from Swift's website I think their sway bars are designed for AP1 only? ... I guess there shouldn't be any fitmet issue but not sure if they will perform as good if installed on a AP2?

 

How do I order a Saner bar?

 

http://shop.outlaw1performance.com/main.sc

 

I installed the CR FSB the other day..ez..took 35 min...I've noticed a huge improvement on cornering..very happy..very flat...but! have since
noticed when applying throttle I've now got wayyyyy more "wheel-skip"
than before change. Keep in mind I'm 100% stock '06 and my tires are getting worn..only about 1/8" tread left on rears..may be the rubber?
maybe not? I'm thinking to maybe get matching CR RSB to help rear
stay down...or maybe larger FSB like Swift or Whiteline. I contacted
Whiteline..humm?..I used to live in their neighborhood of Sydney for a year each in '83 and '91..wonder if the Warringah Mall is still there?haha

 

Would you know the size of the CR Rear sway bar?

 

A rear sway bar is not going to "help the rear stay down".

They act on the opposite side of the car. For instance, autocrossers in stock class get a huge front swaybar to keep the rear tires on the ground, so that the limited slip will work. A side effect of a very stiff front bar may be front tire lift in a turn, but the rears are both on the ground.

When exactly are you experiencing rear wheel lift? Or is it weight transfer under braking?

 

To me?....it's "rear wheel lift"...I'm in no way braking.

The Club Racer FSB is a huge improvement over stock...
but I seemto be experiencing more probs with the rear end
now after the change.

Even taking a corner at a relatively slow speed while applying
throttle a bit out of the corner I get wheel -spin.

Maybe I should turn off the VSA..would rather understand just
what I've done wrong with setup.

My car is "bone-stock" other than new FSB.

 

Its sounds as is most of the post are people with stock suspension, but you have to keep in mind the spring rates too. Clearly ap1 to ap2 to CR handling changes were done by changing more than just the sway bars. Its taught in school that if you had softer springs for street and really stiff sway bars, you could match the handling of stiff springs and softer sway bars. The video showing a stock s2k vs cr turn in at tsukuba clearly shows less nose dive under braking and better balance in the turn. If you look at the j's racing video vs the 350z, the 1st round the Z had too much over steer so they simple softened up the rear a couple clicks to compensate. The editor of DSport mag has been doing lots of tech articles on his AP1. I spoke to him in person and his setup was recommend by Robi Spec (suspension tuners for tons of time attack cars), he is running a Gendron FSB and no rear bar at all for RedlineTime Attack and has been doing pretty well.

 

Robispec also had an s2000 he tuned in sport compact car magazine with the best reviews/lap times. He had a robispec 30mm front sway, rear bar disabled, KW variant 3's, 255/40r17 tires with 17x9.5 +44 rims..and some other stuff.

the robispec sway bar and tuned KW variant 3's for the s2000 are not on his website, i bet u have to special order them?

http://www.modified.com/features/sccp_0806...2000/index.html

one thing i noticed is that the tuning (sway bars) for 255/40r17's all around is probably different than 225 front, 255 rear. The magazine also said that the best performing s2000's for the test had 255 tires up front and rear wings.