I am recently lowered about 1/2 inch on Ohlins DFV. They were installed a week ago and I attempted to get an alignment today only to find out that the alignment tech was unable to dial out excess rear toe in my alignment. I left the shop no more aligned than when I entered. They mentioned that they were unable to align the car without an aftermarket camber kit. Note, this problem is biased towards the rear, they were able to get within spec in the front. The tech did note that the tabs on the subframe that the alignment bolt brace against were bent out, possibly by the last tech to align the car (3 years ago at the same shop), but I have no way to prove that. I intend to bend the tabs back straight and brace them with a bead weld per a suggestion by Billman in another thread. Assuming that this will not bring the alignment range into spec, I was considering replacing the rear UCA with an adjustable version to add range to the camber adjustment and hopefully bring the toe down without having the camber too high. Is there a preferred UCA? Hardrace sells two versions, one where the ball joint slides along a track and is secured with 4 bolts, and another where a threaded rod is used to push/pull the upper ball joint. Hardrace S2000 Rear Upper Camber Arms (Pillow Ball Bushings) - 8512 - BuyHardRace.com and Hardrace Pillow Ball Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms 00-03- S2000 AP1 - 6826 - BuyHardRace.com . Is one design more reliable than the other? Am I even correct in my thinking or would the issue be better addressed with an adjustable control arm, since the rear toe is what is most concerning (over 1 degree on each side).


Thanks in advance.

 

I tried the threaded style upper control arms from another cheaper manufacture, however they were identical in design. I found them rather convoluted to adjust and lock down without being left uneasy about adjustment staying put and eventually after a few hundred miles found one side had bent at the threaded adjustment rod. I would avoid this design for those two reasons. The plate design is more strait forward and have good success running these on the front currently. For the rear they would probably work just as well, however I chose to run the more traditional SPC adjustable ball joints that press into the factory upper control arms. They are a reliable good option that is also cheaper. The caveat is you have to take them somewhere to get the old pressured out and new pressed in if you don't have the means yourself.

 

threaded ones make for easier adjustment and usually allow for better quality joints.

SPC joints can also be used as range extenders for WAY less money...so perhaps consider those.

I'd try fixing the subframe tabs before buying aftermarket parts, though.

 

Something is out of whack or they would be able to get it in spec. Not sure what your setup is, but have not heard anyone having issues lowered up to around an inch (with plenty of adjustment to spare). May just be the tabs being bent, but if not I would suspect something has been damaged. If its a control arm, an OEM replacment would fix it.

If you are wanting more adjustment than stock, then yes, you could get aftermarket ones. Cant provide input there as I have always run stock everything for my alignment related parts on this car.

 

You shouldn't need any aftermarket parts with 1/2" drop, I would fix whatever is wrong with your car using OEM parts.

Also, it's possible that the tech was just clueless how to align our cars - we already have camber, toe, and front caster adjustment from the factory

 

I'm leaning towards the shop not really knowing what they're doing. Up until I put the Ohlins on, the suspension was 100% stock. I do remember the tech talking about maxing out the camber the last time the car was adjusted, but never noticed the bent tabs or gave it a second thought as the numbers were within spec. The car has never been in an accident, and in my time with the car, I can't even think of any large potholes I hit. I'm tempted to bring the car to another shop but not crazy about paying for another alignment with nothing to show for it all over again.

 

Did you get an alignment sheet that you could show to help us understand how big the problem is?

 

Unfortunately they didn't give me one, but i caught a look at the screen when the tech was explaining why he couldn't adjust the car. The rear passenger side toe was at like 1.4 degrees, rear driver was 1.3 degrees. Camber was way off but i don't remember specific values.