Swift or Eibach springs?
We have discussed this before, and again I would assert this is an over generalization that does not always apply. Any shock for a given application is more than just the core fundamental technology, there are other relevant factors that will come in to play when purchasing a shock.
Would you consider going from a cheap Ebay no-name monotube to a Koni sport or KW shock a step backward? I think not, however I don't expect we will agree on this, which is fine. Others can make their own decision on what works for them.
Would you consider going from a cheap Ebay no-name monotube to a Koni sport or KW shock a step backward? I think not, however I don't expect we will agree on this, which is fine. Others can make their own decision on what works for them.
Lately I've been considering CR shocks paired with ground control springs/adjustable perch. This way I get my rate and ride height of choice with a quality OE damper. I don't have a need for adjustable shocks, I don't have time to tinker with variables these days. The only thing that I think I want that the OE dampers don't provide is digressive valving. Are the Koni's digressive?
I have never owned CR shocks, but I have been in a CR. My rough estimate is that the damping curve is similar to the base car, just higher. The Koni should have a more digressive curve, especially with bump damping.
This is my complaint with the CR shocks. They are good, but its more of the same. The damping curve is too linear in my opinion, uses too much bump damping relative to spring rate and rebound, and does not have enough rebound overall. Because of the damping ratio, I would make sure your spring rates stay very close to, or even under OEM CR rates.
Other than that I think you would have a good setup. I went for Koni because I wanted higher spring rates and a different damping profile than stock.
This is my complaint with the CR shocks. They are good, but its more of the same. The damping curve is too linear in my opinion, uses too much bump damping relative to spring rate and rebound, and does not have enough rebound overall. Because of the damping ratio, I would make sure your spring rates stay very close to, or even under OEM CR rates.
Other than that I think you would have a good setup. I went for Koni because I wanted higher spring rates and a different damping profile than stock.
Are you having a specific issue with the CR shocks? CR shocks are the same high quality showa monotube as the AP1/2 shock, except they are valved for stiffer springs. As long as the spring rates are a good match to the valving, I think you will have a hard time improving on that setup significantly without spending lots more. But if you had to go aftermarket and are concerned about longevity you would want something that can be re built cost effectively. IMO, nothing will outlast the OEM shocks (CR or base), so with any aftermarket performance shock, you will have an increased service interval compared to OE. A quality aftermarket shock that can be rebuilt easily and affordably would be Bilstein.
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1437488069' post='23687705
I could afford a moderately priced aftermarket shock (new CR shocks I can get for $900), but not if I have to rebuild them a couple times a year.
Thanks, and sorry for the tangent here.
Thanks, and sorry for the tangent here.
Lately I've been considering CR shocks paired with ground control springs/adjustable perch. This way I get my rate and ride height of choice with a quality OE damper. I don't have a need for adjustable shocks, I don't have time to tinker with variables these days. The only thing that I think I want that the OE dampers don't provide is digressive valving. Are the Koni's digressive?
Mark up is about 40%, so, if you have some people you know in the company. then $750.
That's why if I get a different type of shock, it would have to been a big step up in performance to be worth spending 2-3 times as much, plus having to rebuild it.
But, I"m still not sure how often this rebuild process really needs to be done. I wouldn't need to rebuild them just when performance slightly diminishes, but, again, I drive about 25,000 freeway miles a year.
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