ottawas2000guy

Read every thread I could about camber adjusters, so I understand the issues with the SPC's and the castle nut on the Hardrace/Megan setup. I also generally understand wheel fitment, but this is getting into specifics and I haven't seen this addressed. Before doing research I was set on the SPC's to bring the top of the tire in a bit since I'll be running 255 square RE-71R's on +49 TC105N's.

Question is, am I going to be fine with just a roll and liner trim in the front if I run about -2.5 - 2.8 camber with the Hardrace ball joints. Or should I go with the SPC's despite they're issues to ensure good clearance. I really don't want to pull or mess up my fenders.. I don't understand the guys who have beautiful s2000's with bacon fenders and it doesn't bother them. It would drive me insane. haha

B serious

What problems are you reading about with SPC?

Upper joints allow you to fit a given wheel with LESS necessary camber. KnowwhatImean?

For example, with an upper joint, you may only need -2Deg to fit some given wheel.

With lower joints, you may need -3Deg to fit the same wheel.

Trim your front fender tabs (cut 3 of them off completely) if you want to greatly reduce the risk of bacon fenders.

ottawas2000guy

Ya I’m wondering specifically with the +49’s and 255’s if I need to go with the uppers. I’ve hear people having issues with the adjustment slipping, the nut stripping and the entire joint getting loose in the hole.

B serious

I cannot see a properly tightened SPC joint slipping unless you drop the car off a cliff. Or don't properly tighten the nut. Proper install is key.

There will, however, be more stress on the UCA because the stud of the ball joint is longer. It won't last nearly as long as OEM. And you'll need to inspect the LCA for cracks if you're tracking it.

Those are the real downsides.

The upside is cost, replacement cost, lowered risk because it's an upper ball joint, which does not bear load. And that you can do your fitment with minimal camber.

Don't think of it as an adjuster. It extends the range of your stock adjuster. Set the ball joint so that the tire clears satisfactorily. Then tighten it down to he 130LB or whatever is spec'd and forget it exists. Do all your adjustments with the stock adjuster. Once your alignment is done, tack weld it if you feel unsafe. Mine is just properly tightened and it has never slipped in 5 years....even after hitting track curbing hard enough to bend a spindle and slip/rotate the stock adjusters.


I got about 30K out of mine. They're not loose yet...but they're old. I don't trust any non-OEM joint to last. They're cheap enough to just replace.

Lower joints are load bearing joints. Idk if I'd feel good about using Megan racing parts to hold the whole corner of the car up. Especially since you're extending them out and up. You'll probably want to inspect and replace them at fairly short intervals to be safe.

You may or may not need any aftermarket camber kit to clear your +49.

You will need to roll your fenders, and cut off your front fender tabs and relocate your rear bumper tabs.

If you want completely untouched fenders, you'll want the upper joints in front for sure. Maybe the rear also.

ottawas2000guy

Thanks for the reply. I may go with the SPC’s then, as it’s encouraging to hear a good review. I don’t mind rolling the fenders and trimming the liners , I just didn’t want to flare them. From an aesthetic perspective I wouldn’t mind pulling the wheel in as well as I don’t like an overly aggressive fitment.

SakeBomb Garage

We have installed Hardrace/J's/Spoon etc offset ball joints on many car without any issues. Our yellow shop car has 17x9 +49 TC105N with a offset lower balljoint (J's iirc) and they fit perfectly with the fenders rolled (but not pulled) and about 2.25 deg of camber. I've never personally ran SPC but I've heard of many people that have had issues (loosening the most common one, but also warping the upper control arm housing which means new upper controls arms are needed).

I agree with B Serious that the upper control arm takes less load and therefor problems shouldn't be as common but in practice the lower ball joint is a solid billet piece which isn't going to cause any issues. I'll take better design and more load over sketchy design and less load any day.

Either way we carry Hardrace and can order you SPC ball joints (though I don't recommend them). PM Me if you are interested.

ottawas2000guy

Thanks Sakebomb. Your feedback aligns with some other members experiences I’ve seen on the forums. I’ll put some thought into it. I’m glad to hear I should be fine with minimal camber and just the lower joint. Thanks for that info, that answers my question.

ottawas2000guy

I should have brought this up originally, but anyways. What’s everyone’s opinion then on offset bushings for the upper control arm vs adjustable ball joints? It will essentially accomplish the same task of adding camber, pull the wheel in and is a simple part with nothing to break or come loose. Obviously a bit more work to install but cheaper to buy. Thoughts??

B serious

Its definitely safer than a ball joint of any type.

But not sure if they tend to slip, etc. I would imagine you'd need to offset the bushing 100% negative. So you may get some more clearance (neg camber) than you need...which means you'll be narrowing the front track when you add some positive camber back into the alignment.

I had a friend use them successfully for time attack. I guess rules don't restrict offset bushings like they do adjustable upper joints.

That's why I suggested only using the amount of clearance you need with the SPC.

SakeBomb Garage

All of the offset bushings I'm aware of are either delrin or poly, either way they will add lots of hysteresis to the suspension unless they are frequently lubed. IMO neither Delrin or poly bushings have any place on a suspension. The most reliable, easiest method is the offset lower ball joint and the price is not appreciably more than any of the other options. The only time I would consider offset inner bushings would be if you were building to a specific rule set that doesn't let you run an offset lower ball joint.