What swaybar with Ohlins RT stick stagger
So I finally ordered the Ohlins R and T in its standard format. 10k/8k. I’m currently running HKS 20specs with 10k/10k. I’m switching because for 4 years I’ve had the HKS, I just can’t stop wondering what I’m missing. The HKS have a little bounciness to them that I just can’t dial out with the settings. Otherwise they are really good for the spirited mountain driving I do. I want to keep my car OEM plus so I intend to keep the stock wheels. I e been running CR swaybars but now with the 8k rear springs I’m afraid the car will be too front biased. I like that the stiffer bars reduce body roll but I’m thinking about going back the stock bars. Another consideration is the varying road quality around here. I like the idea of keeping the best ride and suspension articulation that I can. Any feedback from your experiences?
Thanks
Jon
Thanks
Jon
Dont tune by body roll. People have everyone convinced they need to address body roll but that is not really it.
Does the car feel like it is pushing or oversteering more than you like? That is one input for determining if you need to tweak the sway bars. Drive it and then decide what you need vs just buying a different bar up front. Sway bars address the balance partially by sacrificing grip on one end vs adding grip, so you want to keep as much independence in the suspension as you can which is why it is best to tune as well as you can with spring rates first (no sacrifice to suspension independence)
Always tune with springs first, then tweak with sway bars. The only exception is when competing where class rules prohibit certain mods (aka street classes in scca autox where you cant change spring rates)
Proper spring rates will address responsiveness and balance, then you can tweak the bars from there.
As for being bouncy, bars will not help that. Do you mean that after a bump, the suspension bounces a bit before settling? If that is the case your dampers are not up to the task for the spring rates you have. Dampers should control that. Have to look at what rates are recommended with those and if within that range, they may need a rebuild.
Does the car feel like it is pushing or oversteering more than you like? That is one input for determining if you need to tweak the sway bars. Drive it and then decide what you need vs just buying a different bar up front. Sway bars address the balance partially by sacrificing grip on one end vs adding grip, so you want to keep as much independence in the suspension as you can which is why it is best to tune as well as you can with spring rates first (no sacrifice to suspension independence)
Always tune with springs first, then tweak with sway bars. The only exception is when competing where class rules prohibit certain mods (aka street classes in scca autox where you cant change spring rates)
Proper spring rates will address responsiveness and balance, then you can tweak the bars from there.
As for being bouncy, bars will not help that. Do you mean that after a bump, the suspension bounces a bit before settling? If that is the case your dampers are not up to the task for the spring rates you have. Dampers should control that. Have to look at what rates are recommended with those and if within that range, they may need a rebuild.
IDK, for a street car, I'd just go by stability and roll feel, myself.
I have MY00-01 front and rear bars with my standard Ohlins. Non staggered wheels and tires. The car is a AP1 with AP2 rear subframe.
Car feels great everywhere. Very responsive on twisty roads. Nice and planted on the highway.
I used to have a AP2 rear bar. Switching to the MY00 rear bar made very very little difference in push or oversteer because I never drive at 10/10ths on the street. It just made the car roll a little less.
But everything here is me saying blah blah blah.
Try a few different combos and see what you like. There's no one right answer.
I have MY00-01 front and rear bars with my standard Ohlins. Non staggered wheels and tires. The car is a AP1 with AP2 rear subframe.
Car feels great everywhere. Very responsive on twisty roads. Nice and planted on the highway.
I used to have a AP2 rear bar. Switching to the MY00 rear bar made very very little difference in push or oversteer because I never drive at 10/10ths on the street. It just made the car roll a little less.
But everything here is me saying blah blah blah.
Try a few different combos and see what you like. There's no one right answer.
Last edited by B serious; Jun 13, 2025 at 09:26 PM.
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