8W7
Anybody have some insight in this lttle sub? I plan on ditching my current sub(PG xenon 12), as it disspoints me with it output(glassed tub in toolwell). Aswell, i would like to regain some of my trunk back so i plan on moving my amp into the well, and getting a 8W7 underneath the softop cover..
Is this possible? I plan on fibreglassing the whole tirewell(under the softop) and put the 8" in there.
The amp i am using a PG xenon 200.4(800X4). Bridged at 3 ohms on the w7 i will apparently get 300 watts to it or so.
Is this possible? I plan on fibreglassing the whole tirewell(under the softop) and put the 8" in there.
The amp i am using a PG xenon 200.4(800X4). Bridged at 3 ohms on the w7 i will apparently get 300 watts to it or so.
Sounds OK. As long as you realize that the bass put out by an 8" sub is limited. If you really want bass, get a 10" sub. I have 283WRMS running to my Clarion 10" sub in the tool well, and it leaves me wanting more. If depends on what you want from the sub. As far as putting it under the soft top cover....be prepared for some serious rattling.
Someone on here as actually placed an 8" sub IN the soft top tray (tray was taken out and re-inforced, and a sealed enclosure formed to the under side). There was a hole that was cut in the new tray, and was formed down, to allow the sub to sit recessed in the tray, thus allowing the top to still work.
Also, I think modifry has a design for a sub enclosure that is at the FRONT of the passenger foot well. I have seen a picture of it, and it looks amazingly stealth, and the sub is pointed BACK into the cabin. With something like this, 300W will BLOW YOUR MIND, as the sub is not 5' from your head, and in the same compartment.
I will see if I can find some pics.
John
Someone on here as actually placed an 8" sub IN the soft top tray (tray was taken out and re-inforced, and a sealed enclosure formed to the under side). There was a hole that was cut in the new tray, and was formed down, to allow the sub to sit recessed in the tray, thus allowing the top to still work.
Also, I think modifry has a design for a sub enclosure that is at the FRONT of the passenger foot well. I have seen a picture of it, and it looks amazingly stealth, and the sub is pointed BACK into the cabin. With something like this, 300W will BLOW YOUR MIND, as the sub is not 5' from your head, and in the same compartment.
I will see if I can find some pics.
John
umm.... 8W7 heh? jeez, you'd best hope Dave doesn't wander in here... he'll tell you exactly what he thinks of the 8W7... 
first thing you should do is buy a tape measure, then go here to this site, then pull some panels in your trunk, take some measurements, go inside, and start working on how you're going to get a 8.3" deep and 8.5" diameter sub in or below your top well while also finding the recommended .875 cubic feet for the enclosure. (roughly a 16.75" x 10" x 14" box) you might want to consider doing your calcs on how you plan to make everything Dimensionally transcendental.
essentially, what i'm telling you is -- that's a big sub, and a big box, that you plan to put into a tiny area.
and John, i don't know that modifry sells his sub enclosure, but it is slick. i sat in his car a the 2005 SESM and didn't even notice the loss of legroom.... in fact, i completely forgot that sub was supposed to be there until i was long out of the car.
here's a link to his page: http://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/stereo/index.htm
this is the original thread w/ the bad link: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=139485&hl=
here's another footwell sub install: http://www.damnloud.com/s2000/10w3v2.html
(on this install, i'd be concerned about the quantity of sheetmetal he removed and the structural integrity and safety in that area... he actually completely penetrated the external firewall.)
and here's another in cabin option: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247330

first thing you should do is buy a tape measure, then go here to this site, then pull some panels in your trunk, take some measurements, go inside, and start working on how you're going to get a 8.3" deep and 8.5" diameter sub in or below your top well while also finding the recommended .875 cubic feet for the enclosure. (roughly a 16.75" x 10" x 14" box) you might want to consider doing your calcs on how you plan to make everything Dimensionally transcendental.
essentially, what i'm telling you is -- that's a big sub, and a big box, that you plan to put into a tiny area.
and John, i don't know that modifry sells his sub enclosure, but it is slick. i sat in his car a the 2005 SESM and didn't even notice the loss of legroom.... in fact, i completely forgot that sub was supposed to be there until i was long out of the car.
here's a link to his page: http://www.modifry.com/freebies/old/stereo/index.htm
this is the original thread w/ the bad link: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=139485&hl=
here's another footwell sub install: http://www.damnloud.com/s2000/10w3v2.html
(on this install, i'd be concerned about the quantity of sheetmetal he removed and the structural integrity and safety in that area... he actually completely penetrated the external firewall.)
and here's another in cabin option: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247330
Originally Posted by PJK3,Oct 19 2005, 08:53 PM
...you might want to consider doing your calcs on how you plan to make everything Dimensionally transcendental.
If I didn't believe in dimensional transcendentalism, I wouldn't have bought an S2000.
Seriously, though, I've never heard an 8W7 but I've read that it can play as loud and as low as larger subs. To be sure, fitting one under the soft top will be a challenge but fitting any sub under there is a challenge, the 8W7 only more so because of its depth.
I think our spare tire shelf has the necessary volume for a sub. It's the top to bottom distance that limits your options. I've measured a height of 8 inches at the back of this area (on the border with the trunk). From there to the passenger roll bar cover, the height rises to about 9.5 inches. Speaking just for myself, I wouldn't want a sub to fire up into the soft top but, at the trunk border, the height is not enough to mount even an 8 inch sub firing towards the back of the car.
The options I've thought of (from least to most favorite) are:
1. Put the baffle board next to the passenger roll bar cover and shoehorn an 8 inch sub in there. Is 9.5 inches from absolute top to bottom enough for this?
2. At the back, on the trunk border, since even 8s won't fit, use ported 6.5s.
3. Extend the enclosure over the shock tower bar and onto the trunk ledge. This might look stupid and ugly but it would yield pleanty of enclosure volume, I think. It would also create enough baffle board height for an 8 or even a 10.
Mounting depth, though, would still be a problem. Due to the depth and diameter of typical magnets, the metal cross member that frames the border between the trunk and the area under the soft top would cause obstruction. Reverse mounting would sidestep this issue but then you have given up valuable trunk space and the back of the sub is exposed to harm.
Originally Posted by BlazeONE,Oct 20 2005, 08:08 PM
Im pretty sure that the W7 cannot be inverted.
I will then extened the MDF over the bar so only the "bottleneck" will affect the basket and the magnet(which should be the right size).
Would i noticed incresed bass over my current setup? PG Xenon 12 bridged off a 4 channel(400 watts). I hardly heard any bass from this sub and was very dissapointed(sealed 1.2 cube box).
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i'm 90% sure that the W7 subs can be invert mounted... but i think it is a bit different than the standard invert mount. that being said? i've never done it so ymmv.
given your current setup? i think it's possibly a setup or maybe an excursion issue. i'm not 100% sure, but as i recall, the "rated" power listed on the PG site for the 200.4 is "rated" for max power output and not RMS.
so you're actually getting more like 200 Wrms x 2 @ 8 to 2 ohms bridged. still, that could provide you with 400 Wrms to a 8 to 2 ohm load for each voice coil.
i don't know how you're current sub is wired, but if it's DVC, be sure you're bridging your channels and sending 1 set of bridged channels to each DVC.
a 12" sub w/ 400 Wrms should be hitting pretty solid. no vision blurring stuff, but enough that you've got rattles to deal with and that you should feel it hitting.
an 8W7 is unlikely to do much better. what it gains in excursion, it loses in cone area.
so if you're set up right and are wanting more... then before buying an 8W7, i'd look into more power and a 12W6 in that same box.
given your current setup? i think it's possibly a setup or maybe an excursion issue. i'm not 100% sure, but as i recall, the "rated" power listed on the PG site for the 200.4 is "rated" for max power output and not RMS.
XENON 200.4
----------------------------
• Tried and true triple Darlington output stage
• Buffered RCA full range thru output
• Remote Monitoring Display (RMD) port
• Low Pass Level control ready (LPL-44)
200W x 4 (4-1 ohm stereo)
400W x 2 (8-2 ohm bridged)
----------------------------
• Tried and true triple Darlington output stage
• Buffered RCA full range thru output
• Remote Monitoring Display (RMD) port
• Low Pass Level control ready (LPL-44)
200W x 4 (4-1 ohm stereo)
400W x 2 (8-2 ohm bridged)
i don't know how you're current sub is wired, but if it's DVC, be sure you're bridging your channels and sending 1 set of bridged channels to each DVC.
a 12" sub w/ 400 Wrms should be hitting pretty solid. no vision blurring stuff, but enough that you've got rattles to deal with and that you should feel it hitting.
an 8W7 is unlikely to do much better. what it gains in excursion, it loses in cone area.
so if you're set up right and are wanting more... then before buying an 8W7, i'd look into more power and a 12W6 in that same box.
Originally Posted by BlazeONE,Oct 21 2005, 01:27 PM
Was running the front 2 channels to the components(200X2), and wired the sub was wired in parallel to get a 2 ohm configuration and bridged off the rear 2 channels of the amp(400 watts).
Going to try and salvage my current setup before i do go ahead with the 8, as i keep looking at it it just looks harder every time to get it in there. The previous ownerhad teh install done at it was absolute shit install and maybe thats where i think the problem is stemming from(and the amp also had ONE set of RCA's to the 4 channel amp for all 4 channels, should have been two sets).
Going to try and salvage my current setup before i do go ahead with the 8, as i keep looking at it it just looks harder every time to get it in there. The previous ownerhad teh install done at it was absolute shit install and maybe thats where i think the problem is stemming from(and the amp also had ONE set of RCA's to the 4 channel amp for all 4 channels, should have been two sets).
Ah well, looks like ill dump my xenon 12, redo the enclosure and get a W6V2..
Thanks






