I have No EMS at this time, But I would be interested in a Modifry'ed factory gauge. This range sounds good to me as well.

2 bars - 160

 

Also, in the event of higher temp you then want to know if it is still climbing or dropping. If my temp gets toward 215 on the track I would then back off and expect to see it drop back a bit. If it continues to climb I have a cooling problem and need to come straight in.

 

So given that data (I hadn't looked in my Helms), does it make sense that up to 5 bars can be lit in "normal" operation but only 2 datapoints beyond that and you're clueless?

 

So I would also like to see the possibility of making this work on a MY04. Yes we have a higher granularity on the temp gauge but my suspicion is that it is not linear, i.e. 7-8 bars will be wider than 1-5 9-14....

On of the issues that has annoyed me(as I'm sure it has everyone here) is the lack of precise gauges. I would love to see full digital readout of the actual temp(among other things). My question is, is it possible to use the speedometer readout to show this or does that have too many negative consequences(i.e. affects milage etc...) It seems we have a built in 3 digit gauge already I wonder if we could use that(so long as it reads up 999) to display information other than just speed(obviously we would need a toggle switch). Possible?

 

Lude, I think what's important is that the gauge span a realistic operating range for a broad range of users, including guys who drive stock S2K's on the street (but who are interested in having a finer calibration of the car's ECT) to guys with highly modified S2K's who track their cars. The range Modifry is proposing makes sense because (i) the low value of two bars represents the earliest safe "go VTEC" point (but, again, I personally wouldn't drive the car into VTEC until my oil reached 160 degrees F. but that's just me), (ii) the high value of 7 bars represents a reasonable "too hot for anyone under any conditions, regardless of what pressure radiator cap you're using" temperature, and (iii) the increments are in equal, easily remembered units of 15 degrees F. Thus, you've got an easy to understand gauge, spanning a reasonable range, that provides a fine calibration of ECT variations. Just my two cents.

CrazyPhD, while modifying the spedometer to show different data would be neat, I'm not interested in paying for the (likely hugely) expensive task of having someone build a box to do it. The neat thing about what Modifry's proposal is that it's not that hard (well, it doesn't seem all that hard, at least in theory, and I willingly admit that it's well beyond what I could do), as it only involves intercepting the voltage signal from the ECT sensor and buildling a controller for the gauge display.

Modifry, the one request I'd like to put on the table is that I'd like the ECU to still receive the ECT signal, even though that signal would be displayed via the ECT gauge -- because I use my AEM EMS for datalogging on the track, and it would be nice to continue to be able to log my ECTs along with my oil temperatures and all the other variables that the EMS monitors. If it's too much to do, no worries, but logging the data is helpful for me. I suspect other EMS owners feel likewise.

Best,
CB

 

Feel free to laugh at me , I am used to it Is it possible to have this unit "Flash" the bars once an extreme temperature has been reached?

 

[QUOTE=cbender,Sep 15 2004, 07:16 AM] Lude, I think what's important is that the gauge span a realistic operating range for a broad range of users, including guys who drive stock S2K's on the street (but who are interested in having a finer calibration of the car's ECT) to guys with highly modified S2K's who track their cars.

 

My 0.02 on the thresholds is to do one of:

160 160
175 175
190 195
205 215
220 235
235 255

In normal use I like 235 being the max as if I see that I'd still treat that as "oh sh@t". But, I do see some value with 255. It's nice to know if that "oh sh@t" was the result of just getting hot, or if maybe there is a coolant blockage or leak.

But, in any case I'd still probably choose the greater resolution and max it at 235. To be honest if it gets to there often then I'd be working on cooling. This would give a better idea of the temp creeping up.

Also, I'm assuming we'd tap the input to the ECM to this controller. Then cut the output of the ECM to replace the signal from the controller. This way the ECM still gets the signal. This may be needed for OBDII anyways for stock cars to pass emissions.

 

OK, now we're getting some good discussion.

Rather than do lots of "quoting", I'll just directly answer some of the questions raised.

1. The plan is to T-tap the ECT output where it connects to the ECM, so YES, you will be able keep your existing datalogging and whatever other features the AEM has. It also means the stock ECM will maintain the "cold rev limiter".

The difficulty is that we have to make this work on 2 different ECM's, and from what I've read the AEM uses a different resistance than the stock ECM. That means the ECT voltages will be different in each application. I envision a different software build (or possibly a switch setting) for each ECM.

2. No, we can't make the gauge blink. Well, we can, but it will blink once every 10-12 seconds, which would be useless. It has a built-in delay that can't be disabled without, at best, some major surgery on the gauge assembly. What a shame too.

3. In my mind, I envisioned the "Stop you moron" indicator desired by LudeDude to be a separate output on the module tied to a beeper, flashing light, aah-ooga horn, or whatever. It would be set to activate at a preset temperature somewhat higher than the red bar temp.

And I just thought of another idea - It's also possible to use the output as a "change of state" indicator. Let's say we connect that output to a bright light on the dash or windshield pillar. If the temp crosses the 220

 

I'd want to keep the fuel gauge seperate. Not to mention I'd rather not have to think about what temp range each segment of the gauge equals to.

I like the Flashing light alarm, you can stick a bulb or LED just about anywhere in the drivers line of sight. I'd probably put it on top of the steering column cover.