Allright, here goes ...
I don't think that the cap is really needed. I had a rockford 360 amp with one 12", without a cap and never experienced any electrical shortages. Newer cars have better systems and more battery and alternator juice so I really don't think there will be a difference, although if you want one just in case .5 is the way to go.
ahhh, the cap question...this has been discussed many times. There are benefits but not as great as you would think. It's advantage is the ability to store that needed current closer to the amplifier, so you get quicker response. Now you tell me if you can tell the difference between that power being delivered over a wire about 15 ft long vs 1 ft long, considering that electrons move at close to the speed of light.
So, if you got a good price it won't hurt your system. Also stick with the 1F rather than the 0.5F. If you are looking to store power a 1F will store more, so if it is not going to cost you more $$$ get the bigger one.
Just my 2 cents.
So, if you got a good price it won't hurt your system. Also stick with the 1F rather than the 0.5F. If you are looking to store power a 1F will store more, so if it is not going to cost you more $$$ get the bigger one.
Just my 2 cents.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there's some funky stuff going on because of the RIPS circuitry when you use the 300/4 with the Stealthbox. The Stealthbox is running a 3 ohm load, right? According the JLAudio specs, if you bridge the "rear" channels and it sees a 3 ohm load, and you're running 2 channels for the front speakers at 4 ohms, the output of the front is reduced to only 37.5 watts per channel, not the rated 75 watts if you were running 4 ohm loads front and back. Maybe a bridged 300/4 is not the best match for the Stealthbox.
Originally posted by scooby2
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there's some funky stuff going on because of the RIPS circuitry when you use the 300/4 with the Stealthbox. The Stealthbox is running a 3 ohm load, right? According the JLAudio specs, if you bridge the "rear" channels and it sees a 3 ohm load, and you're running 2 channels for the front speakers at 4 ohms, the output of the front is reduced to only 37.5 watts per channel, not the rated 75 watts if you were running 4 ohm loads front and back. Maybe a bridged 300/4 is not the best match for the Stealthbox.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there's some funky stuff going on because of the RIPS circuitry when you use the 300/4 with the Stealthbox. The Stealthbox is running a 3 ohm load, right? According the JLAudio specs, if you bridge the "rear" channels and it sees a 3 ohm load, and you're running 2 channels for the front speakers at 4 ohms, the output of the front is reduced to only 37.5 watts per channel, not the rated 75 watts if you were running 4 ohm loads front and back. Maybe a bridged 300/4 is not the best match for the Stealthbox.
I have the same setup and called JL tech support....they indicated that the wording in the amp documentation is somewhat misleading....I was assured that I would get the full 75wpc at a 4Ohm load to my BA separates in the front and the 150 bridged to my stealthbox....sorry...can't help much on the rationale...you might want to call them to get more info.....
By the way, just added a new Alpine Mp3 HU to my set up and it rocks.....Luvin my JL gear
while ppl are buying parts to make the car lighter, your putting in stuff to make the car heavier...lol I say u buy all that stuff for another vehicle and leave the S as a sportscar ...just my opinion...too each his own, baby!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jshahan
[B]Another board member is selling somthing like this setup. FS: JL Audio Setup
I think that the Dynamat is a waste, I installed it and yes it does help, but only when the car is stopped. Topdown 70mph I can't tell.
[B]Another board member is selling somthing like this setup. FS: JL Audio Setup
I think that the Dynamat is a waste, I installed it and yes it does help, but only when the car is stopped. Topdown 70mph I can't tell.


