zro260

First off this is my very first post so hello to everyone reading this, also I better start off by standing up and admitting that I'm an electronic junkie - ok, on to good stuff.

My current budget is 2500, which should be adequate..... My only requirement is to utilize a single amp solution, ch 1/2 for the front imaging and 3/4 bridged for the sub.

Option1: Alpine CDA-9833
Option2: Alpine CDA-9835
Yellow Top
Focal 165K2P
Single Subwoofer & enclosure. I really need help in this area.
Option1: PG Xenon Gold 100.4
Option2: PG Xenon Gold 200.4
Option3: Soundstream Van Gogh 500.4

Wiring:
Everything KnuKonceptz of course.

Amp Mounting:
IF Phoenix Gold - installed vertically on a PAS2KNut amp rack.
IF Soundstream - installed on a PAS2KNut amp rack (spare area).

Installation:
Me

Also, has anyone upgraded their ground/alternator and accessory wiring, just curious if I need to plan for this.

Thanks - Andy

ATF Kuk

it seems like you have everythign figured out, what kind of help do you need with the sub and enclosure?

GSteg

are you using the yellow top as your primary battery or secondary battery?

if you're going to get a bigger alternator AND the yellow top, disregard what i said

KaCee

9833 + Ipod interface ($75 Ebay) would be my vote. I just installed it a few weeks ago and couldn't be happier as far as source units/music sources go.

I'm curious to hear the responses on the battery wiring and if it needs to be upgraded. I am thinking about using a JL450/4...so similar power. I assume the optima is needed...but how about the stock altenator and stock wiring to the battery????

zro260

ATF Kuk::
For discussion purposes I'll use the PG 200.4 since this is the amp I'm thinking of using. Now PG claims the amp (200.4) is stable to 2 ohms (I assume mono) when bridged, this yields 400x1 (8/4/2 ohm).

Should I use a woofer thats 4 ohm (DVC) giving a final load of 2 ohm for the amp ?
Any sub recommendations ?

In regards to the enclosure, is there anyone on this forum who builds custom enclosures similar to JL's ? Im also curious if anyone has weighed a custom box made of MDF&Carpet and compared it to JL's (w/o the sub).

GSteg::
The yellow top will be used as the primary (and only) battery. Hmm, bigger alternator - I've looked and cant seem to locate any high amp oem(modified)/aftermarket solutions.

KaCee::
I'm actually leaning towards the 9833 as well, I just dont see the advantage of the 9835 or the 9833.

The Optima isn't really required, however I do like the higher voltage output and the extended cycle life - I currently use Redtops in all my vehicles with great success. The wiring upgrade (i.e 0/1 gauge) for the charging/ground system may not be necessary, its just something I'd like to plan ahead of time and do it all at once when I install everything.

GSteg

although you can use the yellow top as the primary battery, i wouldn't do so. the cranking ampere out of those batteries aren't as high as the red top, which is more suitable.


to keep a higher voltage, you'll need more energy from the start, and that is to have a bigger alternator. A battery wouldn't help if your alternator can't keep up with the demands.

either get a new alternator (migth be expensive) or have a shop rewind the alternator to a higher output.

Only replace the battery if the one you have right now is dead or old. With the stock alternator, you're going to be draining the yellow top if your demand exceeds the alternator's output. Keep it long enough like that and when the optima reaches about 10.5v, say goodbye to extended life. They'll take lower voltages than conventional wetcell batteries, but they aren't really what people would call true deep cycle batteries. You've used the red top first hand with experience before and had great success, why stop?


red top>yellow top when it comes to primary battery.

PJK3

1 yellow top is just fine. GSteg while i would agree that if he exceeds the alternators ability over time, he'll sap the yellow top, i've got to disagree w/ you on that being an issue.
you're NOT going to be sapping any battery completely dry while just running the stereo. the OEM alternator is rated for like (remembering) 125 amps or so... for you to get that kind of draw, you'd have to be talking about substantially over 1500 Watts CONTINUOUS draw for an extended period of time (not including amplifier inefficienies). sorry, w/ the system you're talking about - you're just not going to exceed the output of the alternator... now, if we were talking about a system w/ 2500 Wrms output... i might be concerned -- but there is NO way you need that kind of power in the S for common use.

i've had good success with my yellow top and i'm loading close to 800 Wrms at full volume. i know w/ my system, i had about 5-10 minutes of play time (w/o engine) before the OEM battery was flat. the yellow top lasts much longer (maybe 20+ minutes? i haven't really tried to drain it dry), and i've never had any start problems.

and for the power levels you're talking about, i wouldn't even touch an alternator rewind. the S has a very large alternator given the size of the car (mostly due to the electric assist steering and the HID's most likely). so, rewinding an alternator is a waste of money, imo. i'm sure Dave will back me up.

zro260 -
i'm not sure what to tell you about the Xeon amps... one good thing is that they seem to be current regulated, so you can load them any which way and get max power. but, i'm not sure i'd put them on the same tier as the VanGogh. what other amps have you considered?

while i haven't heard them, the new Infinity amps seem to have good specs, and i highly suspect they are rebadged JBL or HK amps...
the Alphasoniks also seem to be praised by Dave... i plan to try one out for the sub on the Ody, as i've found a very good deal on one...

regarding subs -- how much trunk do you want to sacrifice?

GSteg

Looking at the best case possible, he'll be running the PG xenon 100.4

you are very right saying he'll need over 1500w before getting any drain from the battery with the 125amp alternator supplying power. except that is the best case if everything is perfect. Honda did not put in the alternator just for an audio system. I'm sure you know that the engine itself will take away about 50A from that. Add in about another 5-10A for the headlights. Wouldn't hurt to account the ampere draw from ECU also. of course the headunit is going to pull about 7 Ampere. zro260, ever use the air conditioner sometimes? lets say you do and throw in a few more amperes. So how much ampere is left for acessories and add-on? not much I would say. How could we forget? Most would know that the stock alternator makes power progressively. No instant current power right away. You'll need to rev it much higher to get peak output from the alternator, and chances are, you are not going to stay at that RPM for a long time.

I am not saying a HO alternator is the end of all thing, but if your goal is to prevent dimming and such, a yellow top is NOT a solution. a bandaid perhaps, but not a solution. The battery isnt' going to be drained completely with that system. 100% agree. but what can happen is voltage dipping about 10.5v and then your battery will be damaged.


If he lives in a colder climate, then the yellow top is even less ideal for his use.

darkknight1999

I have a large system in my S and one of the larger size yellow top batteries and I've had it 3 years without any problems ever. There is no chance you need to upgrade the alternator in your car. Infact the more I think about it I don't know anyone that's needed to do that on this board.

NFRs2000NYC

I say no to the Xenon line. They are expensive, and put out the same power at any ohms. THis is good for speakers, but bad for the subwoofer, especially with only one amp. Soundstream Tarantula, Van Gogh, any amp thats 125x4 @ 4 ohms would be good. Alphasonik has nice amps as well.