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Hey S2KI. I'm planning on installing a backup camera in my 2007 S2000, and had some questions about how to wire this up that I couldn't find easily online.
The Sony XAV-AX6000 comes with a button to view the rear camera at any point without having to shift in reverse. To have this working properly, the camera would need to receive 12V of power when the car is switched on, and not when shifted to reverse. So if at all possible, I'd like to avoid splicing into the power wire of the backup/reverse taillight.
Questions:
Would the +12V ignition on accessory terminal be a good power source for this?
The head unit still needs to know when the car is shifted in reverse to activate the camera automatically, and therefore needs to have its reverse trigger wire (purple & white wire) hooked up. I'm wondering in this scenario is it possible to connect this wire to a fuse location that receives power when the car is shifted in reverse? According to my 2007 instruction manual, the fuse location for Backup lights is Fuse #9 (7.5 A). However, it seems like this fuse is responsible for some other things, so I don't want the head unit switching to the camera feed unpredictably. Is it possible to do this with an Add-A-Circuit fuse tap, or is it not possible and should I just run the purple/white wire from the head unit to the backup/reverse light?
I've attached a wiring diagram to visually explain what I'm trying to achieve here. Please let me know if this would work and thanks for your help!
Yes, the ignition switched aux power connection on fuse panel is an ideal place to power any auxiliary device. That's why its there.
Your reluctance to do this the easy way seems misguided. You can easily tap into reverse wire without modifying stock wiring. Vampire tap connectors are very sophisticated these days.
They pierce wire insulation with a thin, sharp probe. If ever removed, insulation closes back up and is virtually invisible. No damage, no modification, no risk.
My original post wasn't clear. When I said "I'd like to avoid splicing into the power wire of the backup/reverse taillight", what I really meant was I don't want to use this as a power source for the camera, and I'd like to try limiting the scope of wiring the trigger wire to near the dash since in this scenario I'm already there using the 12V IGN terminal as the camera's power source. I'm fine with tapping/soldering, etc, I just want to avoid running another wire to the back of the car if I don't need to - and wasn't sure if I could use a fuse for the trigger wire, hence the question.
@spider2k thank you. Your answer led me to the wiring diagram for the back-up lights:
My original post wasn't clear. When I said "I'd like to avoid splicing into the power wire of the backup/reverse taillight", what I really meant was I don't want to use this as a power source for the camera, and I'd like to try limiting the scope of wiring the trigger wire to near the dash since in this scenario I'm already there using the 12V IGN terminal as the camera's power source. I'm fine with tapping/soldering, etc, I just want to avoid running another cable to the back of the car if I don't need to - and wasn't sure if I could use a fuse for the trigger wire, hence the question.
@spider2k thank you. Your answer led me to the wiring diagram for the back-up lights:
It comes with red/black convenience leads (switched +12V and GND) for other devices. I'm wondering if I could simplify the backup camera installation by using this +12V lead and not the +12V ignition switch terminal on the fuse panel?
Only thing is - I am also installing the iDatalink Maestro SW steering control adapter (https://www.crutchfield.com/S-9aDUi4...l-Adapter.html), and will be using the power/gnd leads for it as well. Not sure if that poses any issues? (I know the harness says it comes with steering controls already, but I've tried it and it seems to work intermittently, so I'm hoping the Maestro will solve that issue).
Updated diagram - please lmk if this would work fine?
power wise, you're fine. nothing will draw enough current to matter on that circuit.
that "steering control" on that harness is just a 3.5 wired into the honda connector. the radio may not like the resistances, who knows. the best option is the modifry as its hard coded to know the values.