Hey,

I'm planning on replacing my capacitor that is 5+ years old/missing screws/etc.

I've been looking at the Alumapro's since I saw one for sale for cheap. (~$250 for a Alumapro15)

The main thing I want is to combine the distribution block/capacitor into one unit (so that I don't have to have a separate distribution block).

I'm thinking the Alumapro5 would probably be enough for my needs...it'd only be connected to my ~2000 (alphasonik)watt amp.

Any insight that can be offered into this?

Thanks again for all the help! Hopefully after this project I'll be done until I get a double DIN installed in the dash...

 

Unless you're planning on running a series of capacitors to smooth out the power to the amplifiers (like, a large series) or going for SPL competitions, save your money on a cap. If you're worried about current draw from your amp, upgrade your battery and alternator.

Capacitors do nothing spectacular after the inital 'burp' of sound.

 

well the big "burps" of sound are what causes the headlights to dim and everything, right?

 

We're talking competition where it's a one time hit that counts. Contestants pull up and "burp" their system - i.e. a one time bass hit, putting down max power. After that, the cap simply acts as a power filter - an inefficient and ineffective one if only one cap is used.

Headlight dimming power dips are caused by insufficient current produced by your alternator/output capability of the battery.

In other words, upgrade your alternator and/or battery...

 

lol...alright...we'll see how it goes, i'll probably go without a capacitor then

 

Unless you're running serious power, you should be alright. My only upgrade is to an Optima Yellow top in the S and 1/0 chassis ground. I have no problems with headlight dimming pushing my 2 amps - 500Wx1 and 65Wx4, total of approx 750W - at max volume (well, max before distortion...need to upgrade my woofers...)

 

well how many regular watts is 2000 alphasonik watts? lol

i took tomorrow off so i'll be installing everything tomorrow

 

You've got a pair of 10's that can handle 2000W? What 10's are those? And are we talking 2KW RMS or max? Sony Xplod amps at Walmart rate themselves at 1500W - until you read the fine print and see that they're rated at a mere 400-500W RMS...

And what 12 do you have that can handle 2KW of power? Don't get me wrong, they're out there, but there's really only a few brands that make them...

Planning on running everything at max volume all the time as well?

So lets say you turn the gain down so you're putting down 1000WRMS (much more reasonable, I believe). A stronger battery and alternator will more efficiently handle that power load than a cap.

Moving on to a full 2KW, a better battery and alternator would be required - a cap just wouldn't be enough. I run 4 amps in my truck - 2 strapped to the subs for 2000-2200WRMS, and 2 more running the separates in the doors at 180Wx2 and 90x2 total (total power is nearly 3000WRMS, amps are underrated). It takes the volume to be cranked to nearly max before I start seeing the lights dimming - and that's at idle. On the highway, I have no probs with lights dimming at max volume. 200A alternator and Deka Intimidator battery (equivalent to Optima yellow top, about $50 less). Keep in mind that a 200A alternator isn't always pushing 200A - engine speed plays a major role in alternator output. One of these days, I'll have my alternator rewound, looking for 300-400A output.

 

10" subs are rated at 1200w RMS each, 12" is 2200w RMS.

12" is mayhem 900, PSW912, not sure what model the 10's are...had them for a while, but I do remember they are 1200w RMS.

 

Very nice

I still say upgrade your battery and alternator