Ok I had a Python alarm put in last year when I bought the car. When the weather got cold the door locks wouldn't work. no lock or unlock. They would work once I drove the car for awhile. My installler suggested that I should put in a peice that will bump up the amperage when I lock/unlock the doors. I believe its called a 451M. so far it seems to work fine except NOW when I get in the car and put the key in the ignition and not even turn the ignition on the doors lock by themselves. I thought maybe the alarm is doing this but I have a funny feeling that its the OEM keyless entry. What i'm going to try after work today is first unplug the alarm brain and see if it does it and if it doesn't then i'll have the alarm brain plugged into the bit reader and check it to see if this option turned itself on. If it still does this when I do inplug the alarm brain then I know that its the keyless entry acting up. Has this happened to anyone else??
Let me know ASAP. Thankyou

 

I don't think the stock setup locks, or unlocks, the doors when the key is in the ignition.

It disables the remote when the key is in and on. (Maybe just in?)

When the key is in locking the drivers side door will also lock the pass. side door.

But I don't think there is a stock setup that will lock/unlock the doors based on the key being in and/or on.

ModiFry or DarkKnight might have a more complete answer for you.

 

That is a feature which can be turned off.

Its called ignition controlled door locks. It is a feature of your aftermarket Alarm.


Have your installer trouble shoot it. I bet your 451M is senseing voltage when the key is in and is locking/unlocking your system.

 

I hope so thankyou

 

One more note on the factory door locks. You don't really need "more amps" you just need "less voltage".

If you're triggering the door locking/unlocking through the Keyless Entry Module (or the factory alarm wires that go to the Keyless Module) you can't use a bi-polar transistor output from an alarm system. You can use relays or FETs but not bi-polar (OK, now in English).

The factory Keyless Entry module expects a ground signal to do a lock/unlock command. Most 12v systems will accept anything between a perfect ground (0.00 volts) and 1 or 2 volts as a "ground". Not so with the factory Keyless module. It wants to see a voltage around .3 volts or less.

Most alarm systems use bi-polar (regular ordinary CHEAP) transistors to generate a "ground" output to trigger low-current devices like the inputs on the Keyless Entry module. In most cases these transistors work fine. But bi-polar transistors have a distinct voltage drop (loss) that is usually several tenths of a volt. When coupled with the Keyless module's need for a "near-perfect" ground you end up with a lock/unlock system that either doesn't work or works intermittently.

My alarm system had the exact same problem, which I fixed by installing a module between the alarm and the Keyless Entry module that generates a "better" ground. I used FETs instead of bi-polar transistors because an FET provides a lower voltage drop, and my locks have worked fine for years.

It's likely that the "high amperage" device mentioned above is simply a relay, which has very low voltage losses and successfully triggers the Keyless module. You could also use very small low-current "reed relays" to do the same thing, or get fancy and go solid state with the FET idea. Just remember that if your doors don't lock/unlock correctly from an after-market alarm it's because of a voltage problem. Find a way to get teh voltage closer to ground and it will work perfectly.

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