Fiberglass box building question.
Real quick guys. I have been building a fiberglass box for my subs. It's my first time and I have never seen one that's not finished up. So some real quick questions.
I have about 1 layer of the thick style fiberglass, the real thick large fiber stuff on the inside of the box, and some of the real good automotive finish stuff, so far so good, I think one more laer of the thick stuff should get me to the point where I can stand on the box. How think edoes it need to be. Fiberglass is expensive at home depot and I have limited budget but lots of time.
The other is how to get the MDF to stick to the fiberglass. I decide to cut a nice clean line around the box after I find exact airspace I need. Then fiberglass over the box and then the MDF so I get a nice good seal and then use a nice silicon sealent on the inside. So will this work. Anybody got some build up pictures. I intend to use a sealed box so I don't have to factor in the ports. And I can have a little ley way on the interior volume.
Also should I dynomat inside the box or not. I have heard on the side that this might be a good idea. But it does not make much sense to me.
So far I am only out a little cash but would like to not make this a even more expensive mistake. Thank's guy's.
Also on a side note I got 14 gauge through the door's and run back to the amp's 10 gauge to the subs. Well its a lot better then the 24 or so the factory supplied and the 20 that was being run to my subs, hidden inside the box.
Also no more buzz now that I have nice sheilded wires running everywhere. 4 gauge to feed the amp's power box down to dual 8's. Then 14 to the RSD's 12 to the 8W0's. The wole this is comming together very well but I need to make it all pretty. After this comes the amp housings in plexiglas and ceder. Now wood I can do fiberglass is a little weird to me.
So many question's so little time. I have learned more about physical installation in the last few day's then in the last three years. Now I am off to study bass box design.
I have about 1 layer of the thick style fiberglass, the real thick large fiber stuff on the inside of the box, and some of the real good automotive finish stuff, so far so good, I think one more laer of the thick stuff should get me to the point where I can stand on the box. How think edoes it need to be. Fiberglass is expensive at home depot and I have limited budget but lots of time.
The other is how to get the MDF to stick to the fiberglass. I decide to cut a nice clean line around the box after I find exact airspace I need. Then fiberglass over the box and then the MDF so I get a nice good seal and then use a nice silicon sealent on the inside. So will this work. Anybody got some build up pictures. I intend to use a sealed box so I don't have to factor in the ports. And I can have a little ley way on the interior volume.
Also should I dynomat inside the box or not. I have heard on the side that this might be a good idea. But it does not make much sense to me.
So far I am only out a little cash but would like to not make this a even more expensive mistake. Thank's guy's.
Also on a side note I got 14 gauge through the door's and run back to the amp's 10 gauge to the subs. Well its a lot better then the 24 or so the factory supplied and the 20 that was being run to my subs, hidden inside the box.
Also no more buzz now that I have nice sheilded wires running everywhere. 4 gauge to feed the amp's power box down to dual 8's. Then 14 to the RSD's 12 to the 8W0's. The wole this is comming together very well but I need to make it all pretty. After this comes the amp housings in plexiglas and ceder. Now wood I can do fiberglass is a little weird to me.
So many question's so little time. I have learned more about physical installation in the last few day's then in the last three years. Now I am off to study bass box design.
I'm working on a box, too, and I found this site to be _extremely_ helpful:
http://expert.cc.purdue.edu/~smolik/
My solution to attaching the tub to the MDF was to first make a wooden frame that would be at the top of the fiberglass well fro nailing the MDF baffle to, but it sounds like it's too late to do that for your box. smolik used caulk and a final layer of fiberglass to seal the tub and baffle together.
I don't know about Dynomat on the inside, but I'm thinking about putting that stuff between the box and the well. Another website I found (forgot the address) says to line the inside of the box with ropes to make structurally supporting "ribs" which you would lay a layer of fiberglass over.
I've only finished the first layer so I can't say too much more.
This site was also somewhat useful:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/carsub.htm
best of luck to you!
Howie
http://expert.cc.purdue.edu/~smolik/
My solution to attaching the tub to the MDF was to first make a wooden frame that would be at the top of the fiberglass well fro nailing the MDF baffle to, but it sounds like it's too late to do that for your box. smolik used caulk and a final layer of fiberglass to seal the tub and baffle together.
I don't know about Dynomat on the inside, but I'm thinking about putting that stuff between the box and the well. Another website I found (forgot the address) says to line the inside of the box with ropes to make structurally supporting "ribs" which you would lay a layer of fiberglass over.
I've only finished the first layer so I can't say too much more.
This site was also somewhat useful:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/carsub.htm
best of luck to you!
Howie
Well what I did is make a piece of MDF that would cover the exact top of the box. I then cut the excess fiberglass on the box I made in order to make a flat rim, not a exact cut as te fiberglass was flexing. Then I took strips of fiberglass and rode them over the edge of the MDF and on to the box and glassed them into place. I will be shooting expando foam into the corners to insure no air gets out. I will finish the outside of the box in a nice primer then paint after sanding of course and then carpet the top peice with 337 spray and auto carpet from all and ed's.
Already cut the holes it is looking real good, all I got to do is make sure it's water tight and patch some of the corners up to make it look good and it goes in. More then likly will be done tonight or tommorow morning and then it's off to finish the amp racks.
Already cut the holes it is looking real good, all I got to do is make sure it's water tight and patch some of the corners up to make it look good and it goes in. More then likly will be done tonight or tommorow morning and then it's off to finish the amp racks.



