Matrix,
that looks sweet and stock. How is the lid attached to prevent air leakage?

 

I am totally a post whore. I tried to sleep and I came up with another solution, so I just HAD to draw it. (I am a freak this way.) This will enable you to keep much of the coveted enclosure volume and enable you to mount the plexi flush with the lip. I hope this helps:

 

I cut the MDF so that it sits about 1 inch into the lip from underneath. From that I just secured it to the lip with a clamp.

I took your picture and modified it to illustrate what I mean (I hope you don't mind).



This will address 3 sides, the back side (towards the tails lights) is the difficult side. There is no lip there, so you need to cut the MDF very precisely to get a very close fit. Once carpeted it should fit in there very tightly.

There is one drawback to this installation. You will need to cut the well out of your trunk liner. I just bought another one.

Also put some acoustical batting into the well.

 

Guys, I truly appreciate the idea sharing. It has definitely spawned a couple of my own.

However, I have a couple of points I'd like to reiterate:

1. I'm not installing a "box." The well itself is the basis for the enclosure.
2. I have more than enough volume for two 10's.
3. I do not want the plexi level with the main deck of the trunk.
4. The mounted subs and their excursions must remain below the main deck so that a "stealth" cover may be placed over the trunk floor.
5. Vinyl will be used- not carpet.



Matrix- nice, non-invasive approach!

WG- I am definitely going to have to add a brace such as you have detailed. It will have to be a triangle(as pictured) plus a square or rectangle on top of that. The trunckwell is not a steady incline. It has an incline that meets a vertical line(about 4.25") and then the overhanging lip(about .75"). Considering that plexi will be at least .75" thick and the fact that I only want to ensure that all is below the deck, I'll be aiming for an ending volume of 1.4-1.5 cu.ft. Again, my subs displace .1. I'm assuming that when all the finishing work is done I might lose an add'l .1 cu.ft. My initial volume figure is 1.85 - .1 - .1 =1.65 cu.ft. before lowering the top below the deck. That allows me to place the top piece only about an inch below the deck.

In the end, however, it will all be worth it. Subs will be protected. I'll have a completely flat trunk floor. Right now the only piece that will be mounted on that trunk floor will be the PS2. That means my clubs and/or clothing bag(s) will fit. It's now just a matter of securely attaching those braces. I reall don't want to break out the fiberglass again.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by matrix
This will address 3 sides, the back side (towards the tails lights) is the difficult side.

 

My name's not Skip, but [noted] as well

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by FF2Skip

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by matrix
No tinny-ness because of the acoustical batting, but definite sound transfer through the body and that was by design.

 

So far only rattles I have are from the bottom of the conv. top housing and the license plate.

 

Those were evident with my removeable enclosure(2-10's also).

Is yours a 12" sub?