Fog Lights
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From: Rockland County
Fog Lights
I'd be interested if anyone has installed fog lights on their S2K. Please provide info on what you installed and degree of difficulty. Pics would be great too!!
Thanks.
Thanks.
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Granville OH
The only decent installation I'm familiar with was Rick Hesel's. Check this out:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=64076
It looks great, but it is not very easy.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...&threadid=64076
It looks great, but it is not very easy.
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From: the tracks around Europe
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Piedmont
Foglights: Cheap. Cheap. Cheap. I didn't want to spend $$$ for foglights which would be useful to me 3 days a year, but when you need them, you need them. Picked up the lights for very little ($16). 55 watt halogens. Probably the same bulbs as the $$$ lights. Rest of materials were $3.
Mounted them inside a standard outlet box (double sized one, cut in half, screwed by the flanges to the back of the faux duct, inverted "U" position, suspended light from the top. The box was lined with galvanized gutter metal to help with heat control. There's a wire mesh on the bottom to keep stuff from falling inside the bumper. Would have used the longer dimension of the outlet box horizontally if I had to do it again. Elongated the mounting holes to permit adjustment of the light). As it turned out, the offset from the front of the duct was pretty big since the face of the duct is not perpendicular to the axis of the car (and foglight). Next I used a window screen material, placed within the duct opening, on the rippled duct front (black part), made a hole to match the desired light path, used another piece of galvanized metal and made a flange to bridge the gaps between the recessed part of the light and the duct surface. Used index cards and scotch tape to make the pattern first. Wired the flange in (tried soldering, but not necessary, didn't work well with the materials I was using, strength and rigidity not needed). Also cut little fingers in the sheet metal to lock into the mesh. Painted it all with a heat-resistant paint. Placed this in front of the duct. Still looked incomplete. At this point, got those speaker grilles which aren't needed with the door-mounted speakers. Took a convenient mallet and pounded it flat. Used my index card pattern to cut out the final grill front, leaving enough to fold over to keep the edges clean. You have to be careful to not scrape your bumper at all times. I was apprehensive about using masking tape...didn't know if it would pull the paint off the bumper. Maybe shelf paper would work. Punched holes in the speaker grill where the light would come out (can't use a drill on this material. The last thing I did was put a piece of glass in between the window screen flange and the speaker grill (used gasket cement to help hold it). Also painted all the new metal surfaces again.
The only issues which I won't know until I've used them is: will I have a problem with heat? Maybe, but I only intended to use them when it's cold outside anyway.
Wiring: Hot wire from the under-hood fuse box via an in-line fuse to an automotive relay. Used a wire I had run into the cabin from an earlier installation (always run extra wires when you do this stuff, then you won't have to rip the car apart again for trivial wiring needs) and found the driving lights hot wire. This wire is only hot when the driving lights are on (either "on" light positions). Connected this via a switch to the wire running thru the firewall to a relay which switches the battery-hot-wire for the foglight. This setup gives me a fused power, lights-on warning, harder to forget configuration.
Mounted them inside a standard outlet box (double sized one, cut in half, screwed by the flanges to the back of the faux duct, inverted "U" position, suspended light from the top. The box was lined with galvanized gutter metal to help with heat control. There's a wire mesh on the bottom to keep stuff from falling inside the bumper. Would have used the longer dimension of the outlet box horizontally if I had to do it again. Elongated the mounting holes to permit adjustment of the light). As it turned out, the offset from the front of the duct was pretty big since the face of the duct is not perpendicular to the axis of the car (and foglight). Next I used a window screen material, placed within the duct opening, on the rippled duct front (black part), made a hole to match the desired light path, used another piece of galvanized metal and made a flange to bridge the gaps between the recessed part of the light and the duct surface. Used index cards and scotch tape to make the pattern first. Wired the flange in (tried soldering, but not necessary, didn't work well with the materials I was using, strength and rigidity not needed). Also cut little fingers in the sheet metal to lock into the mesh. Painted it all with a heat-resistant paint. Placed this in front of the duct. Still looked incomplete. At this point, got those speaker grilles which aren't needed with the door-mounted speakers. Took a convenient mallet and pounded it flat. Used my index card pattern to cut out the final grill front, leaving enough to fold over to keep the edges clean. You have to be careful to not scrape your bumper at all times. I was apprehensive about using masking tape...didn't know if it would pull the paint off the bumper. Maybe shelf paper would work. Punched holes in the speaker grill where the light would come out (can't use a drill on this material. The last thing I did was put a piece of glass in between the window screen flange and the speaker grill (used gasket cement to help hold it). Also painted all the new metal surfaces again.
The only issues which I won't know until I've used them is: will I have a problem with heat? Maybe, but I only intended to use them when it's cold outside anyway.
Wiring: Hot wire from the under-hood fuse box via an in-line fuse to an automotive relay. Used a wire I had run into the cabin from an earlier installation (always run extra wires when you do this stuff, then you won't have to rip the car apart again for trivial wiring needs) and found the driving lights hot wire. This wire is only hot when the driving lights are on (either "on" light positions). Connected this via a switch to the wire running thru the firewall to a relay which switches the battery-hot-wire for the foglight. This setup gives me a fused power, lights-on warning, harder to forget configuration.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 216
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From: Piedmont
The flash made the grill look pretty awful, but in actuality, the grill makes the foglight pretty much invisible in usual lighting conditions. You would have to look carefully to notice it is there.
Does anyone know how far forward the light should be aimed? One of the drawbacks of the duct location is that the foglight is very close to the ground and can't be aimed too far forward without being beamed into the oncoming drivers' eyes.
Does anyone know how far forward the light should be aimed? One of the drawbacks of the duct location is that the foglight is very close to the ground and can't be aimed too far forward without being beamed into the oncoming drivers' eyes.
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