Help! REAR blinkers not working
Hi guys,
I’ve done a bit of research and haven’t found a solution so I’m hoping someone can here can help.
I have a 2002 Honda S2000
front turn signals work
Front left turn signal is rapid
hazards work at a regular blink rate
sidemarkers work
REAR turn signals do not work at all
checked the 7.5 amp fuse, it’s good.
Replaced all the bulbs with new ones.
Wiring looks fine near where the bulb plugs in to.
don’t know what else to do! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve done a bit of research and haven’t found a solution so I’m hoping someone can here can help.
I have a 2002 Honda S2000
front turn signals work
Front left turn signal is rapid
hazards work at a regular blink rate
sidemarkers work
REAR turn signals do not work at all
checked the 7.5 amp fuse, it’s good.
Replaced all the bulbs with new ones.
Wiring looks fine near where the bulb plugs in to.
don’t know what else to do! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by stonemonkeyyy; Aug 29, 2022 at 09:24 AM.
This is a puzzle. You using "blinkers" to mean "turn signals?" All the "4-ways"/Hazards work including the side signals? They're the same circuit as the turn signals.
Fast blink is notification there's a bulb out. Could be burned out or missing or a LED snuck in there. Fuses and bulbs looking good has fooled me. Test them. Don't forget the side turn signals.
-- Chuck
Fast blink is notification there's a bulb out. Could be burned out or missing or a LED snuck in there. Fuses and bulbs looking good has fooled me. Test them. Don't forget the side turn signals.
-- Chuck
This is a puzzle. You using "blinkers" to mean "turn signals?" All the "4-ways"/Hazards work including the side signals? They're the same circuit as the turn signals.
Fast blink is notification there's a bulb out. Could be burned out or missing or a LED snuck in there. Fuses and bulbs looking good has fooled me. Test them. Don't forget the side turn signals.
-- Chuck
Fast blink is notification there's a bulb out. Could be burned out or missing or a LED snuck in there. Fuses and bulbs looking good has fooled me. Test them. Don't forget the side turn signals.
-- Chuck
I dont know what you mean by, "All the "4-ways"/Hazards work including the side signals?"
The front turn signals work. Front left blinks fast. Front right is normal. When hazards are on, both Front blink normal. The rear turn signals do not work AT ALL, even with hazards.
The sidemarker bulbs are LED. Does that matter? The right side blinks just fine with an LED side marker bulb.
I'll get new standard halogen bulbs for the sidemarkers anyway just to eliminate that as the potential culprit.
My guessis its the led bulbs. The signal light circuits were built to sense and respond to the resistance of the specified incandescent bulbs (when you go to buy these, don't ask for halogen like you said you were going to get. You'll just confuse anyone trying to help you. You want incandescent bulbs. IE; old school light bulbs).
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
My guessis its the led bulbs. The signal light circuits were built to sense and respond to the resistance of the specified incandescent bulbs (when you go to buy these, don't ask for halogen like you said you were going to get. You'll just confuse anyone trying to help you. You want incandescent bulbs. IE; old school light bulbs).
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
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Did you just change the side turn signals to LED (and forgot to tell us?
) They may be the cause of the problem (see above). Just remove them and insert the old bulbs if you still can find them.
-- Chuck
) They may be the cause of the problem (see above). Just remove them and insert the old bulbs if you still can find them. -- Chuck
replaced the fuse. Even though it was good to begin with.
can it be the turn signal relay?











