Help! REAR blinkers not working
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Joined: Nov 2021
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My guessis its the led bulbs. The signal light circuits were built to sense and respond to the resistance of the specified incandescent bulbs (when you go to buy these, don't ask for halogen like you said you were going to get. You'll just confuse anyone trying to help you. You want incandescent bulbs. IE; old school light bulbs).
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
Led bulbs can have very different electrical resistance spec from the incandescent they replace. Doesn't always play nice with a cars electronics. I have led side markers, and they work fine for several years now (and I use my blinkers obsessively, and sometimes prove my age by driving down the road having not realized they didn't cancel). So its probably just a case of finding bulbs with spec that works.
Other possibility is the ground. The rear light harness has a ground at the back of the car. I reused as ground for my rearview camera mod. Look for ths ground. Remove it, clean it up with scotch pad. The eyelet and where eyelet meets body, as well as the bolt and its threads. Then lube all of it up with a light coat of antiseize, which will aid conductivity and prevent corrosion (most antiseize has metallics and is conductive). Note, some advocate using dielectric grease on ground terminals. This is a deliberately non conductive grease. Seems completely counterintuitive to me. Use the most conductive product that will also prevent corrosion is my suggestion.
I can see a scenario where a slightly resistive ground combined with off spec of led bulb resistance creates the odd scenario where some circuits using that ground work (taillights, brake lights, etc), but others (turn signals) don't.
can it be a relay issue?
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Chesterfield VA
The wiring diagram (Page 110-8 of the Wiring Diagram) shows the Turn Signal Hazard Relay as a simple On/Off relay with one (1) power wire exiting it to all the turn signals/hazards. If it's bad nothing works.
If it's not a ground my next long range guess is the connectors to the rear lights that show in the same diagram. That diagram probably has the key.
-- Chuck
If it's not a ground my next long range guess is the connectors to the rear lights that show in the same diagram. That diagram probably has the key.
-- Chuck
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,222
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From: stockbridge
the diagram shows G602 for everything on the tails. if the running lights, reverse and stop works its likely not the culprit. the front, side and rear are all tied together on the same wire.
are you sure you used the correct bulb. i've seen people socket in a bulb that even though it fit, it was wrong. i've seen people slot a dual filament into a single filament socket.
get a meter. test the voltage at the socket. go from there.
are you sure you used the correct bulb. i've seen people socket in a bulb that even though it fit, it was wrong. i've seen people slot a dual filament into a single filament socket.
get a meter. test the voltage at the socket. go from there.
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Joined: Nov 2021
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the diagram shows G602 for everything on the tails. if the running lights, reverse and stop works its likely not the culprit. the front, side and rear are all tied together on the same wire.
are you sure you used the correct bulb. i've seen people socket in a bulb that even though it fit, it was wrong. i've seen people slot a dual filament into a single filament socket.
get a meter. test the voltage at the socket. go from there.
are you sure you used the correct bulb. i've seen people socket in a bulb that even though it fit, it was wrong. i've seen people slot a dual filament into a single filament socket.
get a meter. test the voltage at the socket. go from there.
I got all the bulbs from autozone. They looked up the bulb size in their system and picked it for me. It fit perfectly when I installed them. Dont remember the sizes off the top of my head.
Looks like if none of this works, I literally have to follow the wire harness through the car all the way to the back to inspect it Yes?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,222
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From: stockbridge
Thanks, will test with a multimeter at the socket when I get home.
I got all the bulbs from autozone. They looked up the bulb size in their system and picked it for me. It fit perfectly when I installed them. Dont remember the sizes off the top of my head.
Looks like if none of this works, I literally have to follow the wire harness through the car all the way to the back to inspect it Yes?
I got all the bulbs from autozone. They looked up the bulb size in their system and picked it for me. It fit perfectly when I installed them. Dont remember the sizes off the top of my head.
Looks like if none of this works, I literally have to follow the wire harness through the car all the way to the back to inspect it Yes?
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 2,116
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From: Connecticut :(
I have to ask: Did this JUST start happening? OR did the car have LED bulbs installed prior and you switched them out for brand new incandescent bulbs? I saw you mentioned you replaced all of the bulbs recently, so I'm just trying to be helpful here. I'm going to throw my hat into the ring on this because I helped someone with an issue similar to this a while back and the culprit was something you wouldn't typically expect.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
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Joined: Nov 2021
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I have to ask: Did this JUST start happening? OR did the car have LED bulbs installed prior and you switched them out for brand new incandescent bulbs? I saw you mentioned you replaced all of the bulbs recently, so I'm just trying to be helpful here. I'm going to throw my hat into the ring on this because I helped someone with an issue similar to this a while back and the culprit was something you wouldn't typically expect.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
YES there were LED bulbs installed when I got the car. This is the first time I am replacing them with incandescent bulbs so you might have a point here. I was busy yesterday and didn't have time to get to my car. I'll check voltage with a multimeter tonight and report back.
I really appreciate everyone who has chimed in to help!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 17
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I have to ask: Did this JUST start happening? OR did the car have LED bulbs installed prior and you switched them out for brand new incandescent bulbs? I saw you mentioned you replaced all of the bulbs recently, so I'm just trying to be helpful here. I'm going to throw my hat into the ring on this because I helped someone with an issue similar to this a while back and the culprit was something you wouldn't typically expect.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
IF the car had LEDs or even a different manufacturer of bulb installed, something to look for would be to ensure that proper contact is being made with the bulb by the contacts inside of the socket. Some bulbs like aftermarket LEDs or even replacement bulbs don't always have the exact same physical dimensions as what they're replacing. In the case I mentioned above, in particular, the LED bulbs he was replacing were actually overall longer than the replacement incandescent bulbs he was trying to get to work. What happened was/is the longer bulbs pushed down the bottom "spring" contact, and upon removal, the contact didn't return to the same height as it would have if an incandescent bulb was installed. So when he installed the new incandescent bulbs, the contact point at the bottom of the bulb wasn't physically reaching the contact in the socket anymore.
First thing to do is to see if you even have voltage there; if you do, it's a guarantee that's what the issue is, and it's very easily remedied by simply bending the bottom contact up a little more with a small screwdriver. So long as the bottom and side contact inside of the bulb socket are touching the bulb, and you have voltage, it should absolutely work, obviously lol.
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Mr. Eryozgatliyan
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May 9, 2008 10:58 AM