How to make speaker brackets
Can these type of MDF (or any other type) of space be bought or do you have to make your own?
Just seen these - will they do the job?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882
I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
Just seen these - will they do the job?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882
I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
There are some that fit the OEM basket. I know Pioneer used to have a set that dropped in no issues.
Though typically they are speakers that are driven off a head unit and not off a separate amp. As those units are usually have a deeper mounting depth and bigger magnet.
I been out of the stereo world to long so I don't know the most current PN's that might fit the stock basket.
Though typically they are speakers that are driven off a head unit and not off a separate amp. As those units are usually have a deeper mounting depth and bigger magnet.
I been out of the stereo world to long so I don't know the most current PN's that might fit the stock basket.
Can these type of MDF (or any other type) of space be bought or do you have to make your own?
Just seen these - will they do the job?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882
I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
Just seen these - will they do the job?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882
I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
Revisiting this old thread. Is there a reason people are cutting these brackets with wood and MDF instead of sheet steel or aluminum? Is wood/MDF easier to get a hold of or easier to work with, something else?
In car audio you either use sealed MDF, birch ply, or stacked HDPE (cutting boards) from least desirable to best for door spacers.
It needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Do you really want to cut out a complex shape out of 3/4" steel or aluminum? That'd be expensive and you'd probably need a CNC machine. Also it'd probably be prone to resonance, which is the opposite of what you want. You usually want to decouple the spacer from the door with some foam no matter what you're using.
In car audio you either use sealed MDF, birch ply, or stacked HDPE (cutting boards) from least desirable to best for door spacers.
In car audio you either use sealed MDF, birch ply, or stacked HDPE (cutting boards) from least desirable to best for door spacers.
The spacer is intended to replace the stock plastic speaker basket, which is 1/2" (?) thick,
so going 3/4" moves the speaker out a bit, and getting rid of the basket gives you more depth
to play with in the back.
Most 6.5" speakers will clear the window if you replace the basket with a 3/4" spacer. If
you don't need the extra 1/8", 5/8" will be easier to work with and assure good clearance
with the door panel.
so going 3/4" moves the speaker out a bit, and getting rid of the basket gives you more depth
to play with in the back.
Most 6.5" speakers will clear the window if you replace the basket with a 3/4" spacer. If
you don't need the extra 1/8", 5/8" will be easier to work with and assure good clearance
with the door panel.










