S2000 Electronics Information and discussion related to S2000 electronics such as ICE, GPS, and alarms.

How to make speaker brackets

Thread Tools
 
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #41  
soichiro_h's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Default

Don't you want to protect the rear of your speaker from water with some kind of baffle? I cut the bottom 1/2 to 1/4 off so the woofer isn't sealed in a tiny air volume.

Reply
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:10 AM
  #42  
TrackStar's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,988
Likes: 3
From: Franklin Lakes
Default

Does anyone have a template for these? I no longer have the OEM speaker brackets . . .
Reply
Old Jun 11, 2010 | 03:28 PM
  #43  
Al_G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 665
Likes: 4
Default

Can these type of MDF (or any other type) of space be bought or do you have to make your own?

Just seen these - will they do the job?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882

I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
Reply
Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:48 AM
  #44  
Pinky's Avatar
Community Organizer
25 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,644
Likes: 143
From: Chapel Hill, NC
Default

There are some that fit the OEM basket. I know Pioneer used to have a set that dropped in no issues.

Though typically they are speakers that are driven off a head unit and not off a separate amp. As those units are usually have a deeper mounting depth and bigger magnet.

I been out of the stereo world to long so I don't know the most current PN's that might fit the stock basket.
Reply
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #45  
JDM Junkyard's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
From: Orange County
Default

Originally Posted by Al_G
Can these type of MDF (or any other type) of space be bought or do you have to make your own?

Just seen these - will they do the job?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=310218832882

I presume there are absolutely no speakers which will fit the oem barcket out the box without some sort of modification?
did anybody get these before? I might get them to try them out but the seller doesn't post anything right now.
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 05:36 PM
  #46  
WarrenW's Avatar
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,766
Likes: 8
From: Queens, NY
Default

Revisiting this old thread. Is there a reason people are cutting these brackets with wood and MDF instead of sheet steel or aluminum? Is wood/MDF easier to get a hold of or easier to work with, something else?
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 06:29 PM
  #47  
windhund116's Avatar
Gold Member (Premium)
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 11,349
Likes: 1,794
Default

My guess, is more ppl have tools to work with wood, than metals. I don't think you need aluminum spacer.
Reply
Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:28 PM
  #48  
InterHat's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 458
Likes: 5
Default

Originally Posted by WarrenW
Revisiting this old thread. Is there a reason people are cutting these brackets with wood and MDF instead of sheet steel or aluminum? Is wood/MDF easier to get a hold of or easier to work with, something else?
It needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Do you really want to cut out a complex shape out of 3/4" steel or aluminum? That'd be expensive and you'd probably need a CNC machine. Also it'd probably be prone to resonance, which is the opposite of what you want. You usually want to decouple the spacer from the door with some foam no matter what you're using.

In car audio you either use sealed MDF, birch ply, or stacked HDPE (cutting boards) from least desirable to best for door spacers.
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2016 | 04:43 AM
  #49  
WarrenW's Avatar
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,766
Likes: 8
From: Queens, NY
Default

Originally Posted by InterHat
It needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" thick. Do you really want to cut out a complex shape out of 3/4" steel or aluminum? That'd be expensive and you'd probably need a CNC machine. Also it'd probably be prone to resonance, which is the opposite of what you want. You usually want to decouple the spacer from the door with some foam no matter what you're using.

In car audio you either use sealed MDF, birch ply, or stacked HDPE (cutting boards) from least desirable to best for door spacers.
So if people are making 3/4" spacers it looks like we have a lot of space between the front of the speaker and the backside of the door panel. I've been looking for speakers no taller than the same depth as the stock ones which has been a headache.
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2016 | 05:43 AM
  #50  
oth's Avatar
oth
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 62
From: NJ USA
Default

The spacer is intended to replace the stock plastic speaker basket, which is 1/2" (?) thick,
so going 3/4" moves the speaker out a bit, and getting rid of the basket gives you more depth
to play with in the back.
Most 6.5" speakers will clear the window if you replace the basket with a 3/4" spacer. If
you don't need the extra 1/8", 5/8" will be easier to work with and assure good clearance
with the door panel.
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:09 PM.