Here's the thing. It's going to be hell cutting those angles. I guess that one measurement is off but, I cut a rectangular piece that was larger and then witled it down with the table saw set to diagonal until it fit properly in place.

 

Ahh I see the light! Thanks for the input JasonW, I figured that was what happened. Out of curiosity once you installed the sub in the trunk was there enough room to add a cover piece to hide the sub? It looks like in your picture that one side you have enough room but the other side looks like it sitting flush with the top.

 

I'm pretty sure you could make a cover to fill the hole but I didn't really care about that. I like anything that makes the box easier to remove when I need to.

 

Went ahead with the parts I had cut. Only thing I had to re-cut was the top (needs to be 22"X13.5" if you're using .75" wood, not the 13" the plans call for).

Took some time to get the angles close to right, then just sealed the crap out of the inside of the box.

From there we took the grill and side decorations off of the box the L5 came in and moved them over.

Only thing left is to make a shim/cover in front of the box (it's a bit narrow for the hole) to fill the space.

We mounted the amp where the spare is. We're using the spare-tire hold-down bolt to mount the amp rack.

All in all it was a full weekend, I'll post pics later.

 

This is mostly for the "noob's" but you really should build the box to the manufacture's spec's and then just add the top plate so it looks right. The latest box I built was only a half a cubic foot... and dang that box is small. None of those boxes would even come close, even if it was ported. The box is smaller than the cardboard box it came in... its kinda funny looking.

I'll post pic's once its done. But those boxes won't work for all sub's, just keep it in mind.

 

Oh, I know. The L5 only needs .8 cubes to run sealed. The box was pretty close to what I needed. I've got the amp turned down too, so I'm not overly concerned. Sounds damn good.

Just need to find a way to get the hum/rattle out of the trunk lid. L5 is shaking it apart!

 

Your going to have to put Dynamat on the Trunk lid, the license plate, the trunk vent inthe bumper, and the tray the top folds into. I also did the trunk floor and the walls of the fenders.

 

I've already done most of the inside of the trunk and the cutouts in the trunk lid. Am I going to have to do the whole bottom? Was hoping for a more cosmetically pleasing solution.

Need to go and do the vent too. We talked about it, but I haven't gotten around to it yet (can hear it down there burping).

Waiting on my plate, I'll DM it, of course.

As for the top tray, I've been thinking about removing it, completly, then building a cover to go over the gas tank and amp. Would leave a hole in it so the amp could be seen when the top is up (through the window).

Haven't decided yet.

 

hrm....

thanks for pointing this out. at work now, but i'll try to run the numbers on that box later and see if that dimension is right.

one thing to note is, the problem IS 2D, but the thickness of the MDF is still important as the trapezoidal end piece is going to cover the entire side of the box (including the rectangular thicknesses). even w/ that being true, it appears there is a dimension off somewhere...

if nothing else, i'll link in this thread to the FAQ as a correction.


ok, work or no...

i'd agree that the 6.25" figure seems off. the length of the corrected side DOES appear to be 5.83".
the rectangular sides labeled 12" x 6.25" both should be 12" x 5.83" but need to be compensated some for MDF thickness.



personal keyword: evenflo

 

Thanks for verifying everything PJK3, ultimately that's where I wanted this to head. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy before I started touting that the FAQ should be changed!