installed subwoofer, rattling from shelf!
Hey All,
Wondering if some of you who have installed subwoofers can help me.
I just put in a 900W rms soundstream sub in a sub box into my s2k's boot. The boot doesn't rattle much at all, however the shelf where the soft top sits on when its put down (parcel shelf?) rattles like a bitch. The installers have taken it out. At the moment because the boot isn't sealed off from the cabin the bass is loud but a lot of noise which should be kept in the boot is coming to the cabin.
I have two options from here-
1) Put two ports on the OEM shelf, hopefully this will minimise the rattle with air being able to pass through. Perhaps after this is done, stuff a shit load of insulation material between the shelf in the gap in the boot.
2) Get a custom shelf made up out of MDF.
Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it? new shelf or port existing?
Many Thanks,
Wondering if some of you who have installed subwoofers can help me.
I just put in a 900W rms soundstream sub in a sub box into my s2k's boot. The boot doesn't rattle much at all, however the shelf where the soft top sits on when its put down (parcel shelf?) rattles like a bitch. The installers have taken it out. At the moment because the boot isn't sealed off from the cabin the bass is loud but a lot of noise which should be kept in the boot is coming to the cabin.
I have two options from here-
1) Put two ports on the OEM shelf, hopefully this will minimise the rattle with air being able to pass through. Perhaps after this is done, stuff a shit load of insulation material between the shelf in the gap in the boot.
2) Get a custom shelf made up out of MDF.
Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it? new shelf or port existing?
Many Thanks,
Have you tried Dynamatting the underside of the rear deck? Also, I have read on here that if you stick match sticks (with ignitor removed, of course) into the seams it tightens it up quite a bit.
I would try the match sticks first, then go for dynamat (or equivalent).
Oh, and just about everyone has this problem.....I am only pushing 283WRMS and it rattles on me quite a bit. Most people get rid of it by sound-proofing it with dynamat.
John
I would try the match sticks first, then go for dynamat (or equivalent).
Oh, and just about everyone has this problem.....I am only pushing 283WRMS and it rattles on me quite a bit. Most people get rid of it by sound-proofing it with dynamat.
John
thanks for the info!
i will try the matchsticks trick and see how that goes. with 'dynamat' is this just the soundproofing sheets that they use in doors etc; I would stick this to the bottom of the whole tray i assume?
I'll give it a try.....you reckon worthwhile doing the ports?? i might try this first then do the port.
i will try the matchsticks trick and see how that goes. with 'dynamat' is this just the soundproofing sheets that they use in doors etc; I would stick this to the bottom of the whole tray i assume?
I'll give it a try.....you reckon worthwhile doing the ports?? i might try this first then do the port.
I've had my sub in my car in a custom ported box (well this year
) but I've had a sub in the car for a few years not in different setups and just today I heard a slight rattle. I have my entire tray Dynamated. It didn't do it all the time but just once in a while but it was coming from the tray. But this is the first time I've had any rattles for about 3/4 years in the car... that's pretty good... course I only have 300 running my sub.
900 watts is a LOT in an S2K
It must rattle like crazy
) but I've had a sub in the car for a few years not in different setups and just today I heard a slight rattle. I have my entire tray Dynamated. It didn't do it all the time but just once in a while but it was coming from the tray. But this is the first time I've had any rattles for about 3/4 years in the car... that's pretty good... course I only have 300 running my sub. 900 watts is a LOT in an S2K
It must rattle like crazy
I pulled my deck apart & used rubber D-shaped window gasket & all vibration noise is gone.
I dont know if the matchstick thing actually works....I have just heard it mentioned on here before. If you compress the gaps in the panels, so there is no roof for movement, the vibration will still be there, but no rattling, as the panels will never touch each other (or if they do, its through some sort of buffer).
I would not port the panels. That will not help much. All the movement in the panels is being caused by physical vibration (which I know is the movement of air), but the porting would only really help if it was a compressed compartment, which the trunk is not. Not to mention that it will probably be just as loud (or close to it) as with panels removed.
John
ok ok....so i just get weather stripping, stick it all around the shelf and jam it in; i'll also put soundproofing under the shelf.
thanks for the input guys looks like i might have to go down to the local hardware store after work.
thanks for the input guys looks like i might have to go down to the local hardware store after work.


