Has anyone wired their s2000 to have a keyless start, where you just have to press the start button and have the key in your pocket? Can the immobilizer transponder be boosted, replaced, or physically moved to support this? If this hasn't been done, I have an idea for how to do it.

I realize there are a few problems that are raised by this, but I think they can all be overcome. The start button would need to be stateful, and needs to control the ignition (setting it to the 'on' and 'off' positions) and of course the immobilizer would need to read the key from a greater distance than is possible stock.

I envision the system working like this:
1) The immobilizer reader unit is able to read the key placed in the driver's pocket (or anywhere in the car?). This can be done by somehow boosting the antenna for the device, physically moving the reader from the ignition to the center console or in the seat, or replacing the immobilizer reader with one that has a stronger signal.
2) A keyless start 'black box' would need to be created that takes input from the start button, and sends output to control: the starter (or whatever the start button is connected to stock) and to the ignition (to change modes between 'on' and 'off').

The operation would consist of:

The user enters the vehicle with the key (or even just the immobilizer chip they ripped out of the valet key) in their pocket, purse, etc.

To start the car, the user pushes and holds the start button. This causes the black box to change the state of the ignition to 'on' (the ignition would then send a signal to the immobilizer reader and check for the key), and then the black box would send a signal to the starter for as long as the start button is depressed.

To turn the car off, the user pushes the start button. When the start button is released, the black box sets the ignition to the 'off' position.

The user exits the vehicle with the key (or just the immobilizer chip)

Does something like this already exist? It seems relatively easy to make (possibly aside from the immobilizer boosting/replacement/moving).

 

Alright, so I have a circuit diagram for the ignition replacement circuit sketched out. It involves cutting 1 or 2 wires (depending on where some fuses are located), and soldering a lead on to the light in the start button.

The only bit remaining is to figure out how to increase the range of the immobilizer. Texas Instruments sells some readers, I don't know yet now easy they'd be to replace.

I think that the cost of parts for the ignition replacement circuit would be about $20-30 or so. Pretty cheap. Just a couple of relays, a couple IC chips and some wires.

 

Don't forget you have to unlock the steering wheel somehow unless your going to remove the lock.

 

Not that this is impossible, just a little more complicated than it might appear. Back in '75 I added keypad ignition and starting on my '68 VW Bug, but the car didn't have an ignition lock and I left the key system intact for other drivers and as a backup.

1. You'll need some pretty heavy-duty relays to handle the ignition circuits.
2. You'll need a separate relay for the ACC circuit.
3. How do you turn on just the ACC and not the ignition?
4. How do you turn off the ignition and NOT the ACC?
5. What if the car doesn't start on the first push of the START button? The next attempt will turn the car off.
6. What do you do if the car stalls? Cycle everything off and then back on?
7. What do you do when you bring the car in for service? Training the service tech ain't gonna work, you'll have to maintain the original key system for when other people drive your car, so now we're talking about a duplicate immobilizer reader instead of moving the original.
8. And like darknight said, you've got to disable the steering wheel lock.

To do this right is going to require a micro-controller and software, but that shouldn't be an issue. Micro-controllers are cheap and software has no cost, right?

.

 

Ooo, steering wheel lock. Good catch. I never actually use it that much.

 

Modifry, thanks for your input. Here are my responses to your queries. I'm no electronics wiz like you are, but I know enough to be dangerous. I greatly respect the work you've done for our community


1. You'll need some pretty heavy-duty relays to handle the ignition circuits.

40 Amp automotive relays will work right? They only cost like $6 a piece I think.


2. You'll need a separate relay for the ACC circuit.

Yes, I know that part. I have the circuit diagram for the "Starting System". 4-3 in the service manual. There are 5 power outputs (4 for when the car is ON, and 1 for ACC) and the circuit has them divided in to two groups (ACC, IG1-A, IG1-B, IG2-A) and (ACC, IG2-B).


3. How do you turn on just the ACC and not the ignition?

I was originally thinking of using a simple decade counter to cycle between:
{OFF, ACC, IGNITION}. But with the modifications to the state machine below, you're right, a microcontroller would be better.


4. How do you turn off the ignition and NOT the ACC?

You don't... why do you need to? I may not see the need to do this without going to the OFF state first aside from just because it can be done now If this is necessary, the state transitions could be {OFF, ACC, IGNITION, ACC, OFF} instead.


5. What if the car doesn't start on the first push of the START button? The next attempt will turn the car off.

Whose car doesn't start the first time anyways? I guess going from ACC to ON/IGNITION state would be one push. If the car doesn't start (I'll have to figure out how to tell that the engine is running) by the time the user releases the start button, I could stay in the IGNITION state and let them try to start the car again a few times. If they fail after say, 5 attempts, or if they just tap the button, start button would put them in the OFF state. Thinking of this... I think some cars have a Start/Stop button already, I wonder what their state machine is like?


6. What do you do if the car stalls? Cycle everything off and then back on?

Same as #5, holding the button should start the car. Tapping it should turn it off.


7. What do you do when you bring the car in for service? Training the service tech ain't gonna work, you'll have to maintain the original key system for when other people drive your car, so now we're talking about a duplicate immobilizer reader instead of moving the original.

I would keep the ignition circuit as an input to my microcontroller. When it is in the ACC or IGNITION states, the microcontroller should be in those states too, and the start button should act as it does stock in those two states.

If the immobilizer reader range is great enough (as I hope it can be a few feet?) you should be able to have the key in the ignition or your pocket and have the reader pick it up. This will be the most difficult part to solve, I think. Lots more research needed.


8. And like darknight said, you've got to disable the steering wheel lock.

If the steering wheel lock can be disengaged electronically, cool, this can be done. Otherwise, if users want to use the steering wheel lock (I guess I should be, but don't) then you'll have to use the key, making this mod... pointless for those who use (and need to continue to use) the steering wheel lock. ::

I'll have to look this one up to find out if it can be disenaged electronically. I'm guessing not.

 

Don't get me wrong its a cool idea but harder than it sounds. The wheel lock was the first thing that popped into my head but like modifry said there are many other things to consider as well.

 

Oh but adding a keypad into the circuit would be cool. We're actually adding that to my partners CRX. We've ripped out the old system and now where setting it up for key pad code only start.

 

You could always rip the keyless system out of a lexus

 

I was thinking the same thing...except the way Lexus does it is different. They actually have an ignition that must be turned to start the car. It is as if there is a key in there. Empedocles wants to completely bypass the ignition alltogether.

for the funny though.