I

 

If you are looking to push 125WRMS to the speakers, chances are the speakers are 4-ohm impediance (dont know the specs). There is a good deal (or there was a few weeks ago, probably still going on) on cardomain.com. They have the Infinity 7520a (i think) for sale for $80 + shipping. Good amp (IMO). Pushes 125WRMS x 2 @ 4-ohms. If you get two, one can be bridged for 283WRMS @ 4-ohms for a SVC 4-ohm sub, or a DVC 8-ohm sub.

125 is kind of a lot of wattage (make sure the speakers can handle it). Most aftermarket HU's only push 18-25 WRMS, so you are effectively getting 5 times the power of the HU. External amping does provide a better sound, (most of the time) because the filters are usually better.

John

 

Thanks for the information and the link!

Off BA's website the speakers can handle 125W RMS at 3 ohms

 

3-ohms? That is kind of an odd impediance....you shouldnt be able to run a 4-ohm stable amp to that, because of heat issues created by the lower impediance of the speakers (at least this is true with a 2-ohm sub and a 4-ohm amp). On the other hand, you will not get full power out of a 2-ohm rated amp. Might want to ask someone like John (Darkknight1999) about this, he would know more about it than me, and whether the 1-ohm difference will result in the same result as a 2-ohm difference.

Also, whichever amp you get, make sure it is CEA-2006 compliant. This is the universal standard approved at the 2006 Consumer Electronics Show with regards to rating the wattage of amps. Prior to this agreement, there was no universal way to measure watts, so some amps sounded "underrated" and some "overrated."

John

 

3-ohm speakers are not that uncommon in subs. JL's W7 series comes to my mind... As does the SQ series from Audiobahn.

IMHO... You won't do those speakers any justice with the RF amplifier. Look into a better 4-channel amplifier to use with them & bi-amp the speakers.

 

His Pro60 series are components, though. I have not seen any components with a 3-ohm rating. Subs, yes. Components, not yet. Maybe I dont get out enough!

I cant find whether the rated WRMS power is at 2 or 4 ohm impediances. If it is 4-ohm stable (like most AB class amps), it might not support the 3-ohm components.

As stated above, there are subs with 3-ohm impediances, but if you get the package from JL, I think they send a 2-ohm stable amp with it. I would check the impediance ratings on the amp, and see if (if it is indeed 4-ohm stable) it will support a 3-ohm setup.

I agree with DaPuster that RF does not make the best mid/high range amps. I would look at Infinity, JL, Alpine, the upper level Phoenix Golds, Memphis, and Boston Acoustics.

Check out the Boston GT-22. I am going to be getting one of these in the next month or so. It also fits under the driver's seat.

John

 

[QUOTE=Fencer,Aug 30 2005, 09:49 AM] I

 

I don't really want to spend over $300 on an amp. It can be difficult to keep your eyes (and ears) from becoming bigger than your wallet in a car audio store. I was hoping to keep the whole thing at about $600 since I already had the headunit and sub. Is there an advantage to running a single amp for the components and sub? Or can I save money by using the RF with the sub and buying a two channel for the components? It looks like the Alpine MRV-340 or MRV-345 fits the bill for a single amp setup.

I appreciate the input!

 

I would keep the amp you have now for the sub. Apparently, it puts out 600W (dunno if that is peak or WRMS), but that should be more than enough. I would get a 2-channel for the components. The Infinity 7520a can be had for $80 shipped (i think) from cardomain.com and it puts out 125WRMS at 4-ohms, so you will probably get a bit more out than that. Dunno if will be stable at a 3-ohm load.

You can get a tool well box off eBay for $150 shipped. Mounts flush, unlike the JL box, but I like the subtle look of the exposed speaker.

John

 

i would bet the BA components are rated at 3ohms because they expect you to pair them with a BA amp. the GT series amps are stable to 1-ohm stereo or 2-ohm bridged.