First, thanks for the previous input guys. I decided to go with the Kappa Perfects up front, and am waiting for them to ship. So now the system will look like this:

Alpine 9831, PG 500.4 Ti, Kappa Perfects.

My question regarding the Perfects is about installing them. I have Lucid's adapter rings -- am I going to have to cut the stock basket if I use them? I want to take the cautious route and protect the speakers from water damage -- so if I will still have to cut the baskets I was planning on getting the XTC baffles from crutchfield (and cutting the bottoms). Also, any issues I should be aware of with installing the tweeters?

Now for my main question: subwoofer options given my amp. I am looking for an 8" to put in a wlaurent enclosure. I was reading about the JL 8W3v2 but 250w is the max of the JL red zone and I bet my amp is underrated. So..the 8w3v2 comes in 3 flavors: DVC 4ohm,6ohm,8ohm. Do you think I could get the dual 6ohm, wire it for a 3ohm load and run it off my rear channels bridged? Will my amp be able to handle bridging the channels into 3ohm mono? This would probably put me somewhere around 200rms? Thoughts? Other suggestions?

Thanks!

 

honestly and in order:

good job doing your research.

go to this page and read up the specs on the 500.4
http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/titaniumamps.html

the 500.4 makes 250 Wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms when a channel is bridged. so, even at 4 ohms, you'll be making 250 Wrms rated. (and you probably will make more...)

3 ohm into that JL? no. i've talked to one of the tech support engineers at PG regarding the Tantrum and Ti lines. they are 2 ohm stable when mono bridged, but do not scale upwards beyond their 4 ohm power load (they are current limited designs).

3 ohm bridged mono ok for the amp? yes. it's stable to 1 ohm stereo or 2 ohms mono (see the page i linked above)

see above -- sorry, this won't put you at 200 Wrms.

my advice -- look for an 8" sub that can handle 250-300 Wrms and that can be wired to a total load within 2 - 4 ohms.
regretfully -- i have been in a similar boat, and it's not an easy task. thankfully -- you've got a nice range to work with...

 

And regarding the perfects question....

You dont need the lucid rings. Just cut off the stock baskets, and leave the rings...attach the ring to the speaker using the provided Infinity foam gasket, (youll see what I mean when you get them) and put them back. The only reason for using the STOCK rings is so that you dont have to drill new holes into your 30,000 dollar piece of metal.

 

I used Lucid rings with my Perfects, but the position of the mounting slots on the speakers are a little different to Lucids rings (suspect due to metric vs imperial speaker sizes). So the bolts used to screw into the rings just catch the edges of the speaker, just enough to keep it secure, but you have to be patient to get it all lined up.

I did just take some pictures last night, but my microdrive in the camera had a minor failure (bad sector) which resulted in loosing all the pictures after a certain point on the drive.

Martin

 

looks like you're gonna have a great set up! can't wait to see it.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3

the 500.4 makes 250 Wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms when a channel is bridged.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by NFRs2000NYC
You dont need the lucid rings.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bdoob
So given that I want to take the (perhaps over-)cautious route of protecting the speakers from water damage, I would need to cut the stock baskets, re-use the ring, but add the XTC baffles with the bottoms cut out in between the ring and the door?
Thanks for this -- did you use the Lucid rings to avoid having to cut the stock baskets?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by bdoob

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3