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Before going into details, I just wanted everyone to know I was a complete noob at electronics and installs prior to researching the forum. On my last car, I just overpaid someone for the products and installation, but for the S....I wanted it done right. After a lot of research, I wanted to make it easy for people doing similar installs to be able to find all the necessary links I used so, these will be posted through this topic. Here is a walkthrough my unfinished product.
Here is a list of my components
HU:-------------Alpine cda-9857 (will prob trade this out for a jvc kd-avx33 when I have $$)
Amps:----------Jl 300/2 (for components)
Amp2:----------Alpine mrp-m650 (for sub)
Speakers:-----Infinity kappa perfect 6.1 components
Sub:------------Jl 10w6v2
Box:------------Custom fiberglass (purchased of s2ki member)
Insulation:----B-Quiet Ultimate 150ft (so far only used 120ft)
Wires:---------50 feet (12 gauge speaker wire)
20 ft (4 gauge power wire)
8ft (8 gauge ground/power for amp)
20 ft signal wire
3 sets of 2 channel Knukoncepts Krystal RCAs
Accessories:--Distribution block, fuse, grounding clamps etc.
NO DCI YET
Total cost thus far: Looking around $1400 if you wait for good deals
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****Very First thing I did, Install Insulation****
The Floor
Sorry, no pics of the doors, will take some when I install the speakers, but you can find some in the links
*****Special thanks to VintageMac for this idea******
Got my car up on racks and matted underneat the transmission tunnel and along the header, cat, and exhaust area. PICS TO COME SOON
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1. First thing I did was build speaker brackets for the kappas.
Special thanks to PAS2KNut for this How-to-Guide https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...aker+spacer+mdf
Here is my finished product. Not as good as his, but still does the job.
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2. Second was to build amp racks.
I used a roll of aluminum and drilled some holes for air circulation. Hope this works out as well as it fits, but the full install has not been completed. The dimensions are 19 long X 10 wide, with a small half circle cut out near the rubber area to ensure the metal doesnt rub and cut through.
*****I Opted out of this method and today built a new amp rack. Modeled this new install after Oths. The original link is posted above******
Thanks Oth!
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Process:
1. Found some foam. Cramed it in there pretty good and estimated where to make cuts with marker.
2. Made first cuts, but be sure to leave room outside the lines for error.
3. Good thing, b/c my estimates were off. Arrow points to where new cuts need to be made.
4. There is a pipe(not sure what its for) in the rear part of the trunk. The #2 arrow points to the cut out needed to get around this pipe for a good fit. As you can see, this took two estimates as well.
5. The #3 arrow points to cuts needed to be made to not interfere with a line coming out of the "hump". Im assuming this is the fuel line, but I coudl be completely wrong.
6. Trace template onto material. Use a straight edge where needed. Im using drywall. Its more thin than the 3/4 mdf board I used(its probably 1/3" or less) and it has some flexability to it as well. Also, it is very easy to cut. Mdf board is actually quite difficult to cut, atleast using my tools Not the best stuff around, but gets the job done.
7. I wrapped the edges in duct tape so that the dry wall wasnt flaking everywhere.
**edit**
-after test fitting. The nearest left corner was rubbing into wires that are mounted on the left side. I made the new cut out to get around these and allow the rack to go beneath them...also to take off some of the pressure on the gas tank injection area.(That black rubber thing on the left side- Im guessing thats what it is???)
8. Drilled Some holes for better air circulation. Taped up the holes
9. Added liner
10. Test fit. Fits awesome!
11. Checked compatability with amp. It is a very tight fit, and I did not believe it woudl work at first, but after a little elbow grease it seems to fit just fine and its not going anywhere.
11. I worry a bit that there may be too much pressure on the "gas injection area(rubber thing)" It looks quite durable, so Im not "Too" worried, but I would like to know others opinions on if you think this is an okay mount.
Appreciate it
I instead used an m650 rather than an f450. Here are my dimensions for the 3/4" mdf board
14.5 wide X 10.5 H X 3/4 Deep
The two smaller peices are
7X1.5 and 2.5X1.5 This allows clearance of the "trunk springs"(not sure if this is the correct term- the Crossing bars)
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Here is my Sub install....basically just put it in
Wiring/HU and amp install will be done this upcoming week. I will make sure to take many pics throughout the process.
----Keep scrolling to bottom of page for more install pics-----
ha. nah, just didnt buy them new. like i said....gotta wait to find good deals to get this system for 1400. That or know the right people. The jl 300/2 is scratched up a bit, but will never see it anyways. So...I dont care one bit.
Hope to finish this soon for you guys.
FORGOT TO ADD...IF ANYONE HAS SOMETHING SPECIFIC THEY WOULD LIKE TO SEE, PLEASE ASK AND ILL DO MY BEST TO SHOW IT. ALSO, IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO TO ADD, ID APPRECIATE IT.
since i'm considering doing this myself very soon. i primarly want to see how wires are run. specific pictures where you tied them up, what gromets, how to get them into the trunk fromt he interior etc... i know they can be found eslewhere on the board, but if you're going to be taking pics anyway... why not? :-)
Nice work. Who made that box? I need a similar one, and if your w6 will fit, my G5 will probably also fit.... hmmm....
As far as the amp rack, I cat a sheet of metal cut and bent to just continue the "hump" across the spare tire area (amps are elevated by using rubber grommets on the mounting screws.... this also leads to better air flow). There is space waaaay to the driver's side of the hump, but it SUUUUCKS getting in there! So I came up with this:
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jun 20 2007, 04:52 PM
Nice work. Who made that box? I need a similar one, and if your w6 will fit, my G5 will probably also fit.... hmmm....
I believe the member said tweeter made the box. I believe he also said he paid somewhere around $300 dollars for it, but dont quote me on that. If you are interested in something similar talk to S4play and check out his box set up. The sub is on the left side, but probably better quality as well. I cant remember the price s4play quoted for making a box, but I know it was not cheap either. If you want a cheaper method check out the boxes that mount along the trunk well. Save cash, but lose space. In my opinion, the custom box is the way to go and worth the extra cash. Havent heard it yet, but Im assuming it should sound just fine.
I will definitely be taking many pics throughout the wire installation process. I still do not completely know what Im doing although I have a much better Idea than before. I will have a friend helping me with the install so...he should be able to tell me exactly what we are doing.
06-20-2007, 01:25 PM
My In Depth Full Install ****(FINISHED)****
Not the best stuff around, but gets the job done.
