My ICE Project
 

I know it's a good HU (retail is $999) but I'm curious if anyone has heard of problems with this model. I know it needs an external amp.

I've seen it in an older S2000, but one concern is that the drop-out faceplate will hit my '04/'05 center console upgrade.

I'm also looking for solutions to hooking up the OEM controls. I don't think DJQube's mod works with this HU.

I've seen this HU for around $800 new or $400 for factory reconditioned. I would never have thought about a reconditioned unit, but I recently lost my Sony UX-400 PDA and I could only get a reconditioned one. I can't tell any difference in looks or performance from my new one. I'm still considering a new one, though.

http://store1.yimg.com/I/hypeaudio_1826_9383391

-Pete :hello:

High end Sony's have pretty bad reputations in the car audio world. This may be a great HU, but if it were my money I wouldn't chance it. I personally like HU's without internal amplification so that's a plus in my book. If you go with the Sony insist on a longer warranty because the more frequent problems with the decks is that they die after a year or two. There are several threads about Sony decks' unreliability if you do a search. But if you like it, go for it :)

For a great display you may also want to check out these Pioneer Premier decks:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...H-P8MP_big.jpg

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...4DEXP9_big.jpg

The other usual suspects are high end Eclipse, Alpine, and Clarion head units.

motorized sony = :thumbdn:

Go with the top 4.

You mean the ones that flitcroft is recommending?

-Pete :confused:

Yeah....1-Alpine, 2-Eclipse, 3-Clarion, and 4-Pioneer

Pioneer would be my last choice.

Ditto what Dave said.

I'm trying to find something high-end, and also something somewhat rare or unique. I don't want the same thing everyone else has.

I've been looking online, and I get some catalogs, like Crutchfield's, but I haven't found too much to my liking. The Alpines are nice, but the high-end (no DVD/screen) receivers are in the $300 range. I know they are good quality, but because they are relatively inexpensive, it seems like everyone owns one.

Don't get me wrong, I don't prefer to spend a lot of money, but usually it's a requirement if you want something unique.

I might have to start a new thread, titled "What is the best HU available that will fit in the OEM S2000 DIN."

Any recommendations on something outrageous???

-Pete :)

**THANKS FOR THE ADVICE!!**

There was this retro headunit that ff2skip posted awhile back. it looked strait out of the 70's but had a cool look to it. IMO would look wierd in the S, but a nice looking piece. definitely unique.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...020DXZ945.jpeg

This is a high end Clarion Pro Audio deck. Retails for $600, Crutchfield has it for $450. I love my Clarion ProAudio deck in my other car. Best I have listened to so far.

[QUOTE=Will,Jan 6 2005, 07:47 PM]http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...020DXZ945.jpeg

This is a high end Clarion Pro Audio deck.

I have this one and only know of two others in S2000s if that helps. IMHO, it's the best deck you can buy in America. [edit: they usually end up in Ferraris from the high-end tuner shops that get blank checks or in competition audio cars.]

http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/...age/cd8053.jpg

http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/cdtuner/top.html

It's pricey but has everything an audiophile would want, and nothing more. As a big bonus, it has a lifetime anti-theft/relpacement warranty at no extra charge. The Alpine and Clarion in this price range are both also exceptional but I picked the Eclipse and have never doubted that decision.

$380 at eTronics (4.1/5 seller rating): http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?icatid...5mp&svbname=403

One more, a little more showy and unique (with Sirius):
http://store5.yimg.com/I/gadgetpro_1800_4233955

http://www.discountjungle.net/pacq50wx4cdp.html

Well, I've decided to go with the Sony CDX-M9905X. (I'll probably order it later today.)

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...95-f_dmt-.jpeg

After reading the other posts, I realize that Sony doesn't have a good rep like Alpine, Eclipse, etc., but there is no other HU with the features of this one.

This is the only HU that has a video monitor built into the faceplate (fixed, not flip-up). I'm not going to be watching DVD movies or playing video games, and I don't need a NAV unit, but there are some cool things I can do with the HU monitor. I don't want to install a monitor in my dash, so this HU provides a nice option.

I'd like to connect the HU monitor to an electronic switch so that I can toggle through the views on my cameras (front view, rear view, front and rear bumpercams, gaugecam and pedalcam. This is cool because normally I can't see the camera displays while I'm recording. With the HU monitor, I can see to zoom the cameras in or out remotely. Also, if I'm only recording to one camera, I could toggle through the different camera views on the fly to change the image.

I also have a non-linear editing machine, so the HU monitor gives me another venue to display my video creations, which is cool for shows and meets. I can run video in-line with the camera displays, or have different video playing on each one.

Thanks to all for the HU advice. I'll need more advice on the other components as well, and I'll be starting some other threads for those soon! :thumbup:

-Pete :hello:

THere is a reason why we all have pretty much the same headunit, and it isnt money. The sony headunit is extremely inconvenient in the s2000, as the controls are tiny, and very hard to get to while driving a car that bounces. ALso, the screen is pretty much useless, not like youll be watching movies on it. ALso, high end alpine headunits go for over 800.

I picked SONY with a wired DCI.
When I use the Dash Control, HU control is not a big issue for me.
I usually close the radio cover, So I don't see the screen.
BBE MP3 sound enhancement feature is nice. :)

I just ordered the CDX-9905X.


http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...95-Girl_d.jpeg


The CD mechanism includes an improved suspension to resist shocks, a new motor that draws less power, and a fast new low-current pickup that improves durability and CD playback accuracy. The new 52W x 4 S-MOSFET Power IC produces clearer, more accurate sound, less distortion, and a higher signal-to-noise ratio than previous designs.

32,000-color Display: This unit has a 32,000-color Thin Film Transistor (TFT) screen that you can customize with your own digital photos and animations.

Display Mode: You can choose from the following display modes:

Standard Mode: In this mode, the unit displays images and/or pre-stored visual effects with various information. You can choose from the following display patterns: Effect (changing light pattern in the background with a group of lines sweeping across the display), Wallpaper (blue light pattern), Wallpaper & Effect (blue light pattern background with a group of lines sweeping across the display), Panorama (snapshots of sporting events scroll across the display), or Panorama & Effect (snapshots of sporting events scroll across the display, while a group of lines sweep across the screen).

Spectrum Analyzer Mode: In this mode, the unit displays pre-stored animated patterns with various information. You can choose from the following display patterns: Space Producer (black and white checker background with blinking spheres of light that pulse with the music), Type-A (blue light pattern background with a group of squares sweeping across the display, Type-B (geometrical shapes hovering above a moving vortex grid), Type-C (spinning spider web grid with light emanating from the center), or Type-D (alternates between two light pattern images).

Movie Mode: In this mode, the unit displays pre-stored moving pictures with various information. You can choose from the following display patterns: Movie-1 (surface of a body of water in motion), Movie-2 (racing through the streets of a city at night from the driver's point of view), Movie-3 (traveling through space), Movie-4 (bars of light in motion), Movie-5 (pistons in motion with fire in the background), Movie-6 (fiery background), Movie-7 (car gauges in motion), Movie-8 (spinning 3D off-road racecar), Movie-9 (off-road racing), Movie-10 (spinning 3D Formula 1 racecar), Movie-11 (Formula 1 racing), Movie-12 (people surfing and windsurfing), or Movie-13 (video clips from different sporting events).
Video Mode: In this mode, the unit displays video images and/or pre-stored spectrum analyzers with various information. You can choose from the following display patterns: Video Full (shows the video from the source connected to the video input), Video & Spectrum Analyzer (shows the video from the connected video source in the middle of the display, while showing a spectrum analyzer on the left and right sides of the display), Video & Capture (periodically takes a snapshot of the video and shows it in the left portion of the display, while the full-motion video is shown in the right portion of the display), or Video & Slideshow (plays the full-motion video in the center of the display, while a series of snapshots scroll up and down on each side of the display).

Image Settings: You can adjust the following image settings:

Skin: allows you to select the face pattern for displaying information during playback and radio reception. Positions of the display items differ depending on the face pattern.

Character Color: allows you to choose one of the following character colors: blue, white, green, pink, yellow, purple, black, or custom. For the custom color, you can adjust the red, green, and blue levels.

Auto Image: allows you to change the display image automatically at a specified speed. You can choose one of the following speeds: Slow, Middle, Fast, or Off.
Effect: allows you to choose the moving pattern that appears as a visual effect

Wallpaper: allows you to choose different wallpaper patterns. You can also have the unit cycle through the different wallpaper patterns at one of the following speeds: Slow, Middle, or Fast. If you select User, then the unit will cycle through all user stored images, and if you choose All, the unit will display all pre-stored and user stored images in sequence.

Panorama: allows you to choose the panorama image

Aspect: depending on the display mode, you can choose one of the following aspect ratios:

Standard 1: image with an aspect ratio of 4:3
Wide 1: image with an aspect ratio of 16:9
Cinema 1: image with an aspect ratio of 2.35:1
Standard 2: image with an aspect ratio of 4:3, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the display
Wide 2: image with an aspect ratio of 16:9, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the display
Cinema 2: image with an aspect ratio of 2.35:1, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the display
Standard 3: image with an aspect ratio of 4:3, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the area for the Capture and Slide Show mode
Wide 3: image with an aspect ratio of 16:9, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the area for the Capture and Slide Show mode
Cinema 3: image with an aspect ratio of 2.35:1, with only the left and right sides of the image being enlarged to fill the area for the Capture and Slide Show mode

Auto Clear: allows you to turn off the text information automatically, allowing you to enjoy only the images

Snapshot: allows you to store a maximum of 100 images from connected video sources

Delete: allows you to delete unwanted stores images

Opening: allows you to select an image for the start-up screen

MP3 Playback: This unit can play MP3 files recorded on CD-ROM, CD-R, and CD-RW discs in ISO9660 Level 1/Level 2, Joliet, and Romeo formats. Each disc should have a maximum of 150 folders and 300 files/folders. During MP3 playback, the unit displays any recorded ID3 Tag information.

BBE MP: When playing back MP3 files, the BBE MP circuit recovers and recreates harmonics, restoring the detail, warmth and nuances that existed in the original recording.

Dynamic Soundstage Organizer (DSO): Sony's Dynamic Soundstage Organizer uses proprietary circuitry to induce subtle phase shifts, simulating a sound source that is placed higher than the actual speakers in the vehicle. For example, when the DSO function is used in a vehicle equipped with speakers mounted low in the front doors, it creates virtual speakers in the dash to raise the soundstage. This unit offers three levels of DSO, each with a larger and higher soundstage. You can store the DSO setting for each source.

EQ7: You may select one of the following EQ presets: Xplod, Vocal, Club, Jazz, New Age, Rock, or Custom. For each preset, you can adjust the following frequencies: 62Hz, 157Hz, 396Hz, 1kHz, 2.51kHz, 6.34kHz, and 16kHz. The level of each frequency can be adjusted from +10dB to -10dB in 1dB increments.

Source Tone Memory: Each source (AM/FM/CD/Changer) can store its own EQ7 levels.

XM Satellite Radio Controls: This unit can control an optional Sony XM tuner. The optional tuner, along with an antenna and subscription, will allow you to receive XM Satellite Radio. XM Satellite Radio programming features up to 100 channels of digital-quality music, news, talk, sports, entertainment, and children's programming.

SSIR-EXA Adaptive Reception: The SSIR-EXA tuner is equipped with "Adaptive Reception". The Adaptive Reception feature has two modes ("IF Auto" and "IF Wide") for optimizing FM reception. The "Wide" mode decreases the tuner's selectivity but results in better frequency response. The "IF Auto" mode automatically adjusts the tuner for a good balance between frequency response and minimum station-to-station interference. The Adaptive Reception feature cannot be turned off.

Best Tuning Memory (BTM): This feature selects stations with the strongest signals within the selected band and stores them in order of their frequency.

Station Memo: You can assign a name of up to 16 characters in length to each tuner preset station. Station Memos can be used with the List-up function to locate a station.

4 V Mono Subwoofer Preamp Outputs: In addition to the 4 V front and rear preamp outputs, this unit includes one set of 4 V mono subwoofer preamp outputs. Although there are two female RCA subwoofer outputs, the same signal is carried by both connections. A low-pass filter (see below) can be used to filter high frequencies from the signals output by the subwoofer outs.

High-pass Filter: The front and rear preamp outputs have a selectable high-pass filter that may be set to 78Hz, 125Hz, or off.

Low-pass Filter: The subwoofer preamp outputs have a selectable low-pass filter that may be set to 78Hz, 125Hz, or off.

Video Input: The CDX-M9905X has a rear video input that consists of an RCA composite video jack on an 8" pigtail.

Aux Lite Auxiliary Input: The CDX-M9905X has an auxiliary input on the rear panel, allowing you to connect a separate audio source, such as a portable MiniDisc or MP3 player, or the audio output from a mobile/portable DVD player. In the past, Sony receivers required a separate adapter, however, this unit's "Aux Lite" input allows you to directly connect the auxiliary unit to the receiver's stereo RCA input jacks.

Dimmer: This unit is equipped with a wire that Sony calls an illumination lead, however, it acts as a dimmer lead. When the dimmer mode is set to "Auto" and the illumination lead receives power, the display dims to a preset level. The display brightness is not affected by the vehicle's dimmer control. Also, the dimmer feature may be turned off, so dimming does not take place when the illumination lead receives power. You may choose to dim the display at all times by setting the dimmer mode to "On".

Note: For this feature to work, the unit's illumination wire must be connected to your vehicle's dash lights wire.

45-Degree Installation: For flexibility of installation, this unit can be mounted between 0 (horizontal) and 45 degrees.

Wired Remote Compatibility: In addition to the supplied wireless remote, the receiver can be controlled by an optional wired rotary commander (item 158RMX4S). Once the wired remote is connected, you can use the menu system to change the control direction of the remote, depending on which side of the steering wheel you choose to mount the remote.

Changer Controls

Compatibility: This unit is compatible with Sony Unilink CD and MD changers. In addition, this unit can control compatible Sony Mobile Memory Stick players.

Multiple Changer Control: A maximum of 5 CD changers, 5 CD/MP3 changers, or 5 MD changers may be connected to this receiver. When connecting CD, CD/MP3 and MD changers, you may connect up to a total of 7 changers (but there must not be more than 5 of one type of changer). When connecting more than one changer to this receiver, you must use the Sony XA-C30 source selector.

CD/MP3 Changer Controls: When a CD/MP3 changer is connected to this unit, you can perform the following functions: disc skip, track skip, audible track search, album skip, track repeat, album repeat, disc repeat, disc random, album random, changer random (plays all the tracks in the current changer in random order), and all random, which plays the tracks from the disc loaded in the head unit and all connected changers in random order.

CD Text/MD Memo Display: When used with a compatible CD changer and a CD Text encoded CD, this unit will display the CD Text information. When using a compatible Sony MD changer, this receiver can display disc and track names that have been prerecorded on MDs.

Disc Memo: When a changer with the Custom File function is connected to this unit, you can enter names, up to 16 characters long, into memory for up to 110 discs. After a disc has been given a custom title, you may search for the disc, by title, using the List-up function.

Auto Scroll: If the text being displayed exceeds 16 characters and the Auto Scroll function is on, the information will automatically scroll across the screen.

Display Illumination/Clock Display: Pressing the Off button once will turn off audio output, but the clock display and face/button illumination remain on. This makes the clock display and face/button illumination "Keyed" instead of "Unit On" only. To turn the unit off completely, you must press the Off button for two seconds.

-Pete :thumbup:

Beautiful unit! Let us know how it goes.

Just FYI - you may want to look at how that steering wheel remote connects to the HU. The ones I've seen are hardwired which can be great for controlling with no lag, but depending on install, could be a hazard at the race track. If you go that route see if you can have enough slack to go through the plastic shroud in the wheel, or something equivalent.

Got the CDX-M9905X. :)

I still need to order a lot of other parts before I can do the install, but I'm getting right to it!
-Pete :burnrubr:

Woah, you're in Hollywood. We should meetup and check out systems. Are you going to the Curry meet in Pasadena?

I want to go to the Curry Meet, but I'll be starting at a new Hospital in Feb. and I don't know my schedule, yet.

I'll try to make it, but my new system definitely won't be completed by then.

I'm shooting to have the system and CF interior (part 2) completed by the Spugen BBQ, March 26th.

I'll be posting pics of my install as it happens.

-Pete :hello:

Ordered MB Quart QSD 216 speakers.

Does anyone know if I will need adapter rings to mount the 6.5s in the doors? (I have an '02.

-Pete :confused:

I'm a little late to the party, but...

After having owned a motorized-face Sony for several years now (and having it continually break), I will never go that route again. The QA on these units is horrible. The original solder job was extremely poor, and the two repairs weren't any better, causing all kinds of mischief with the buttons and playback. I keep my remote around not for some cool convenience, but to make sure I can close the motorized face when the 'close' button fails me for the day.

The sound is spectacular (I had a vested interest in picking up a Sony), but the rest of the unit was a serious letdown. Sony or not, I won't pick up a motorized face unit again unless I have a VERY good reason... they're just not worth the hassle.

You can do one of three things:

1. Cut the back out of the stock speaker baskets (works great! its what I did)
2. Make a set out of MDF and then clearcoat it or Polyurethane it to protect it from the moisture in the door.
3. You can get a set of Aluminum ones from Lucid

^ I have the MB Quart QSD 216s. My install does #1 above. No reason to do anything else for sound quality.

Thanks for the info!

Aluminum speaker baskets, or aluminum speaker adapters (from Lucid)?

Is Lucid still in business???

I did a search on S2KI using "Lucid" and there were a bunch of posts asking if he is still in business due to the lack of response to e-mail/phone calls/PMs.

I'll send him a PM & e-mail tonight, and see what happens.

-Pete

Oh sorry the adapter from Lucid are Aluminum the stock speaker baskets are ABS plastic and can be cut with a Dremel. Its very easy to cut the stock baskets. I can cut them in about 5 minutes each. Let me see if I can find a picture of the stock basket cut.

I'll have to take a picture of it for you Pete. I have them out of the car at the moment anyway. I snap a few pictures for you.

My website has some pics of cut baskets...

Thanks for the help, guys. I haven't had much experience with ICE installation in the past.

I saw the pic of the OEM speaker basket with the back cut out.

So the proper thing to do is to seal the basket up with vinyl after installing the new speaker, (to protect it from water) - but not to seal it completely, right?

I'll probably order the amp tonight. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the Alpine MRV-F540 to power the front and rear speakers (RMS Power 4 Ohms 4x80Watts; Power at 2 Ohms 4x100Watts; Bridged Power 2x200Watts).

I'm thinking that if I add a sub, I can add another amp at that time. The HU box says 52W x 4, so I guess this HU has a built in amp, as well.

This is your last chance to talk me into a more powerful amp! :D

-Pete

You can use something like this:

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro.../h237xt65.jpeg

Just cut a small 1" slit in the bottom of each baffle to release the pressure, because most 6.5 speaker arn't design to work in a seal enclosure ;)

I think these are the right ones:

Slim Speaker Baffles - Waterproof

Most every replacement speaker going in the door will require a spacer of some kind. Which baffle you'll need regular or slim will depend on your speakers.

I just checked it for you. You'll need a spacer and you'll need the larger baffle.

Nah, forget that. As it is compatible with the RMX4S Just buy Modifry's DCI Sony hardwired version. It'll plug straight in and give you the instant response you want, more controls than standard and even speed dependent volume control. What more could you ask.

Nice choice of head unit! I bought a CDX-M750 in 2000 and it is still going strong.

How much did you end up paying for it? I've seen Crutchfield have it for $499.

Thanks!

With Modifry's Sony DCI, do I have to mount an LED light to trigger the HU?

I'm covering the inside of the radio door and trim with CF, so I don't want to drill any holes.

-Pete :confused:

Nope! It's hard wired. It plugs into the back of the head unit where you would connect an RMX4S.

$447.54 for the Sony HU with tax and shipping.

$540.95 for the MB Quarts with shipping.

I'm definitely going to order Modifry's Sony DCI.

Thanks for the advice!


-Pete :thumbup:

[quote name='Kodokan_4' date='Jan 27 2005, 05:38 PM'] I'll probably order the amp tonight. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the Alpine MRV-F540 to power the front and rear speakers (RMS Power 4 Ohms 4x80Watts; Power at 2 Ohms 4x100Watts; Bridged Power 2x200Watts).

I'm thinking that if I add a sub, I can add another amp at that time. The HU box says 52W x 4, so I guess this HU has a built in amp, as well.

This is your last chance to talk me into a more powerful amp!

If you decided to go PPI you'd be at this amp. This is still a superb model. Not the current garbage of MY04+ stuff:
http://www.discountjungle.net/precpowpc4ch.html

Oh crap!!

I didn't catch your last 2 posts before ordering. :rev:

I just ordered the Alpine MRV-F540.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/pro...00MRVF540.jpeg


Well, hopefully the sound will be decent.

I also ordered Modifry's wired DCI.

Now, I've got to choose some rear speakers, and read through darknight's wiring thread to see if I can make a shopping list for wiring supplies.


-Pete :drunk:

I'm thinking about Infinity Kappa 42.5i speakers for the rear, but I would prefer 52.5i size.

http://www.caraudioimage.com/images/products/343.jpg

I've searched and only found one reference to the 42.5i speaker fitting in the rear, but I'm prety sure about it. I found a thread where xviper mentioned that the maximum magnet width is 4". The cutout diameter for the 42.5i is 3-5/8" (93mm) and the magnets are smaller than that.

The real question is WILL THE INFINITY KAPPA 52.5 SPEAKERS FIT IN THE REAR?

Cutout diameter: 4-11/16"
Mounting Depth: 2-1/16"

I know that depth is not really an issue with the rear speakers, I just put it there for reference. I think the magnets may be small enough, but the speaker housing on the rear is large (I can't find a pic to post).


-Pete :rev:

That alpine amp isnt good for the Qs. You need more power.

:rev:

The website states:

Power Range
90-170 Watts

I agree as well. I don't know what the Crutchfield return policy is (can you send back an open box after trying the amp out?) but I would try to get a beefier amp. You spent a lot on speakers; make sure they get enough power to sing for you.

Why not get MB Quarts for the rear as well? You can get a good coaxial set or get the Premium 5.5s instead of the huge QSDs. In general, I like matched sets of speakers. The MB Quarts are quite different than normal in the way the sound. You may want to listen to them for a while before you pick a rear speaker (and in my car I don't think it's too necessary).

Help me out here guys!

Could someone break it down for me?

How many watts will the HU and amp put out to the speakers???

HU Specs: Max power 52W x 4; 23W per channel minimum average continuous power into 4 ohms

Amp Specs: Max Power (EIAJ) 150Wx4 (4ohm; Stereo) 250Wx2 (Bridged 4ohm;)

Hey Kodokan,

If you are going to use the Alpine amp then you wont be using the power from the radio. Same applies vice a versa, you can only use either the amp in the radio, or your Alpine amp you bought, but not both. So when you hook up the amp, basically you are bypassing the power from the Headunit.

I think in your amp's case, you can bridge the front and the rear for 200 watts. So you would essentially be converting your amp from a 4 channel to a 2 channel, and YOU DONT WANT TO RUN 200 watts rms to those MB Quarts, not to mention by bridging it you might be dropping it down to 2 ohms (not sure on this).

That amp you got is not optimal for the speakers you bought. You should at least be looking at 100 watts rms per channel. Just like Flithcroft said, you should check out the Sound Stream Van gogh 500.4, 125 watts rms per channel. Very nice amp, yet I am a bit partial since I own one. You can pick one up for about $400, I think I paid that much for mine.

Honestly If I where you, I would skip the speakers in the back, use the front two channels of the amp to power the door speakers, and bridge the rear channels for a sub in the back. I am running Focal Utopias in the front and I have more than enough sound with just the door speakers and the rear fill of the sub.

By the way, post some pics of your system as you go along.

Pete, I don't know what you're looking at for those numbers. The Alpine amp is 80 watts RMS x 4 channels at 4ohms. You want 100-150 watts RMS to your QSDs.

In general, you're looking for 12v power at 4 ohms of resistance.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hkVXsk7qICW/c...sp?I=500MRVF540

Did you buy that from Crutchfield like your picture says?!! $600! The Soundstream Van Gogh (125 watts x 4 at 4 ohms) is a much better amp with 50% more power at 2/3 the price. I know Crutchfield ships a UPS return label all filled out for you. Get ready to peel and stick :rev:

You won't use the power from your headunit. That Alpine amp is probably about 13" long x 10" wide, right? How great do you think the power from a headunit is going to be when they also have to fit a CD player and a computer board in there? That's why my headunit has no power output. They're all garbage for high end components so there's no need to have power in high end HUs anyway.

Pete, are you going to the headquarters meet? If so, I'd be your team leader and we can compare systems :rev:

Go sign up, dammit! https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...=258827&st=450

Unfortunately, I didn't buy anything from Crutchfield. I'm an unemployed student, so I usually gamble and buy from the low-ball internet electronics sites. (I've been lucky in the past and haven't had any problems.) I think the Alpine amp was $305 including shipping. Crutchfield wants $599 + shipping.

The price difference is insane, right? As long as nothing goes wrong with the deal or the product, it's all good. Except this time I blew it and ordered the wrong amp, and I doubt this place will let me refund.

The only amp on their site that meets the power requirement is the RF T15004, and I measured everything, and that monster is not going in the trunk (It's almost 3 feet long and over a foot wide!)

Now I want the AUDIOBAHN A4125HCT 125W x4, so I e-mailed the vendor and asked if they could get it for me as an exchange. If not, I'll probably have to buy the Alpine, and resell it for a loss.

-Pete :rev:

Sorry to hear that man. I hear you on the price though. That is a bargain. Just turn around and sell it on Ebay. They are going for 299 on there. If anything you will gain because of the charging of shipping. It will bring the total over 305.

^ or try selling it locally in the SoCal forum. Nearly any set of speakers will be maxed out with 80 watts RMS. You just happen to have gotten monsters that suck up energy like a Hummer H1 :rev:

I believe Lucid is out of business. :drunk:

I never got a response to my e-mail, and his last post on S2KI was in June of 2004.

I'll start searching for some other speaker adapters.


-Pete :rev:

Well I've made another mistake in my choice of amplifier. :rev: :drunk:

The electronics store ordered me the Audiobahn A4125HCT, and I just found out about the Audiobahn A1504DP which is a much better choice. The A1504DP is rated at 150W RMS @ 4ohms, and is wider horizontally. (If I mount the A4125HCT in the trunk well, it will be sideways.)


Audiobahn A1504DP:
http://store1.yimg.com/I/millionbuy_1826_566380

Now I'll have to buy both, and sell the A4125 for a loss. :(

Man, it's a good thing I'm buying at a discount!

-Pete :)

I'd have sympathy for you but that head unit looks so good I'm not sure you deserve it. :rev:

:drunk: ...I don't really need sympathy, but I do need good advice on my ICE install. :rev:

Here's my plan:
(Hopefully, SOMEONE will stop me if I'm making another mistake!)

PART I -
HU = Sony -M9905X + Lucid hard wired DCI
Doors = MB Quart QSD 216 separate midwoofer/tweeter (90-170W @ 4 ohms)
Amp #1 = Audiobahn A1504DP (150w x4 @ 4 ohms)


PART II -
Rear speakers = BOSS RIP-524 (300W peak power @ 4 ohms) - I can't find the RMS wattage or dimensions online, so I'm contacting BOSS to find out:

http://www.ugonet.com/images/products/boss/RIP524.jpg


Amp #2 = Audiobahn 1502DP (150W x2 @ 4 ohms):


PART III -
Sub = Audiobahn AW100T (400W RMS; 800W peak power)

http://www.audiobahninc.com/products...ers/AW100T.jpg

Amp #3 = Audiobahn A18001DT (600W x1 @ 4 ohms mono)

-Pete :(

I wouldnt get the Audiobahn sub. They arent the best quality. The amps are nice tho. Also, why did you buy from this site again if they dont let you exchange it??? thezeb.com has GREAT prices on audiobahn, so try to get it from them.

Also, you dont need three amps....what for? A 4 channel amp and a 2 channel for the sub is MORE than youll ever need.

[quote name='NFRs2000NYC' date='Feb 6 2005, 12:40 PM'] I wouldnt get the Audiobahn sub.

I had to change the subwoofer selection. Wlaurent said the AW1000Q won't fit in the speaker enclosures.

Are 2 lower powered subs better than 1 higher powered one? (See above)

-Pete :rev:

I really fail to see how you (or anyone) could possibly want or need more than 400w going to your sub... in the S2k. Also consider the weight penalty. Save the dual sub setup for the Escalade, dude. :rev:

[quote name='Will' date='Feb 6 2005, 10:17 PM'] I really fail to see how you (or anyone) could possibly want or need more than 400w going to your sub...

^ I don't think you understand subs too well if you say this. :rev:

Pete, I'm running two 8" subs at 350 watts each for exactly the opposite reason that was posted above. There is a considerable weight savings if you get the right subs (two eights weighs less, in general, than an equivalent twelve inch sub). You'll also get more accurate bass that is generally tighter and more musical. I highly recommend considering two WLAurent enclosures. Try checking out the new eD sub that he sells for his enclosures.

Second, what's the RMS power rating for those rear speakers? 150 watts seems too high for anything but MB Quarts and Focals :drunk:

Finally, I agree with Dave in that you should look for one four way amp for the speakers and one two way amp for the subs or mono amp for a single sub. A single four way sub will make your HU's fader and balance work easier. In my experience, two amps for speakers doesn't always work well when you are trying to do fine tuning on your sound positioning.

My current choices for rear subs are the following:

(1) Sub: AW100T (400W RMS/800W peak) + Amp: A18001DT (600W x1)
OR
(2) Subs: AW100T (400W RMS/800W peak) + Amp: A1504DP (300W x2)


I would like to use one amp for the front and rear speakers, but I think the speakers require too much juice. The 4 speakers in the door (2 mids/2 tweets) will take 170W each, so I found one amp that puts out 150Wx4.

The rear speakers are also high power and are rated at 300W peak, so they should be 150W RMS. The amp for those puts out 150W x2.

None of the amps will max out the speakers, and I can't find an amp strong enough to power the 6 cabin speakers (at least not one that will fit into the S).

I hope it's not too difficult to install/tune 3 amps vs 2.

-Pete :rev:

Have you looked at the Soundstream Van Gogh 500.4? It's 125 watts RMS x 4? That's the perfect amount of power for the MB Quarts and it fits fine. Pikkashoe runs that amp and loves it. Trust me, there are many good amps that produce 600 watts RMS :rev:

Why would you add $36 rear speakers on top of $1400 MSRP front components? That probably will hurt your overall sound quality. Plus, $36 speakers will not take 150 watts of RMS power, guaranteed. They're either going to suffer in sound quality or just malfunction with that much current.

What makes you want the Audiobahn subs? I just haven't heard many good things about them for this level of gear. I'd check out the eD subs, Alumapros, and JL before I would look at Audiobahn. And for no amount of money would I want a paper cone on a sub. That's just personal perference :drunk:

Have you seen this eD one? It's a small enclosure sub with a big punch:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/11ov2_spec.htm

The reason I can get great sound in two tiny subs is that the subs I run have really long travel (excursion). The one above is similar, but less extreme (it has more square inches to push air so it doesn't need to have so much excursion).

Yes, I checked it out. I'm listening to all of the advice you guys are giving.

Soundstream Van Gogh 500.4:

Yes, I checked out the eD subwoofers.

The one you linked to is an 8" sub with 450W RMS.

The one I selected is a 10" sub with 400W RMS/800 peak power.

I selected it because it is one of the few 10" subs that meets the requirements for the wlaurent subwoofer enclosures. The Alumapros and JL subs need a much bigger enclosure. The eD 10" sub is only 350W RMS.

-Pete

High powered separates are easy to find, but it's difficult to find high powered 5.25" coaxials. (Money certainly isn't the issue.)

I can put the same wattage through these as the Quarts. Since they are rated for 300W peak power, I don't think I'll blow them with 150W. Even if I do, they're cheap, so it's no big loss.

I may go for less power and better quality for the rear speakers, but I'll have to do more research.

-Pete

[quote name='Kodokan_4' date='Feb 7 2005, 08:04 PM'] Yes, I checked it out. I'm listening to all of the advice you guys are giving.

Soundstream Van Gogh 500.4:

[quote name='Kodokan_4' date='Feb 7 2005, 08:45 PM'] Yes, I checked out the eD subwoofers.

The one you linked to is an 8" sub with 450W RMS.

The one I selected is a 10" sub with 400W RMS/800 peak power.

I selected it because it is one of the few 10" subs that meets the requirements for the wlaurent subwoofer enclosures. The Alumapros and JL subs need a much bigger enclosure.

The 600W subwoofer you are talking about will not fit into the wlaurent speaker enclosure.

The eD 13Ov.2 (10" subwoofer) has a mounting depth of 6.75".

Wlaurent said that the eD Kv.2 (8" subwoofer) is a tight fit with a mounting depth of 5.25".

That's why I previously mentioned the 350W RMS eD Kv.2 (10" subwoofer). It also has a mounting depth of 5.25".

Here's a link to that thread:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=199959

The AW1000Q and Aw100T (10" subwoofers) that I am looking at both have a mounting depth of 5" and can be mounted in an enclosure as small as 0.25 cu.ft.

-Pete :drunk:

Under no circumstances are you to send 170watts to the mbquarts. They will blow so fast you wont even have time to say sh!t there goes 500 bucks.

Nore more than 100wrms to them please.

D'oh. You are correct there :drunk:

I was also going to mention that you can run component speakers for your rears. There's really no reason not to.

Re: Dave's comment - I run 125 watts RMS to the MB Quarts. They could take more power than that without any problem whatsoever. Maybe he's thinking of a different model than the 6.5" QSD 216. Mine hits "ear splitting" way before distortion and shows no signs of ever having too much power, at least in my setup.

they recommend 90...125 is pushing it, but its still ok (Im running 125 to my Perfects) 170 will destroy them. Trust me....Ive seen a few QSDs go in my day.