My ICE Project
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[quote name='Kodokan_4' date='Feb 7 2005, 08:45 PM'] Yes, I checked out the eD subwoofers.
The one you linked to is an 8" sub with 450W RMS.
The one I selected is a 10" sub with 400W RMS/800 peak power.
I selected it because it is one of the few 10" subs that meets the requirements for the wlaurent subwoofer enclosures. The Alumapros and JL subs need a much bigger enclosure.
The one you linked to is an 8" sub with 450W RMS.
The one I selected is a 10" sub with 400W RMS/800 peak power.
I selected it because it is one of the few 10" subs that meets the requirements for the wlaurent subwoofer enclosures. The Alumapros and JL subs need a much bigger enclosure.
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From: Judo Town, USA
Originally Posted by flitcroft' date='Feb 8 2005, 10:10 AM
http://www.edesignaudio.com/13ov2_spec.htm
Their numbering is funny. This is the 10" one that should fit in the WLaurent box. It's 600 watts RMS.
Their numbering is funny. This is the 10" one that should fit in the WLaurent box. It's 600 watts RMS.The eD 13Ov.2 (10" subwoofer) has a mounting depth of 6.75".
Wlaurent said that the eD Kv.2 (8" subwoofer) is a tight fit with a mounting depth of 5.25".
That's why I previously mentioned the 350W RMS eD Kv.2 (10" subwoofer). It also has a mounting depth of 5.25".
Here's a link to that thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=199959
The AW1000Q and Aw100T (10" subwoofers) that I am looking at both have a mounting depth of 5" and can be mounted in an enclosure as small as 0.25 cu.ft.
-Pete
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Originally Posted by Kodokan_4' date='Feb 8 2005, 04:10 PM
The 600W subwoofer you are talking about will not fit into the wlaurent speaker enclosure.
The eD 13Ov.2 (10" subwoofer) has a mounting depth of 6.75".
Wlaurent said that the eD Kv.2 (8" subwoofer) is a tight fit with a mounting depth of 5.25".
That's why I previously mentioned the 350W RMS eD Kv.2 (10" subwoofer). It also has a mounting depth of 5.25".
Here's a link to that thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=199959
The AW1000Q and Aw100T (10" subwoofers) that I am looking at both have a mounting depth of 5" and can be mounted in an enclosure as small as 0.25 cu.ft.
-Pete
The eD 13Ov.2 (10" subwoofer) has a mounting depth of 6.75".
Wlaurent said that the eD Kv.2 (8" subwoofer) is a tight fit with a mounting depth of 5.25".
That's why I previously mentioned the 350W RMS eD Kv.2 (10" subwoofer). It also has a mounting depth of 5.25".
Here's a link to that thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=199959
The AW1000Q and Aw100T (10" subwoofers) that I am looking at both have a mounting depth of 5" and can be mounted in an enclosure as small as 0.25 cu.ft.
-Pete
I was also going to mention that you can run component speakers for your rears. There's really no reason not to.
Re: Dave's comment - I run 125 watts RMS to the MB Quarts. They could take more power than that without any problem whatsoever. Maybe he's thinking of a different model than the 6.5" QSD 216. Mine hits "ear splitting" way before distortion and shows no signs of ever having too much power, at least in my setup.
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^ Huh? They are rated 90 - 170 watts RMS.
http://www.mbquart.com/2003/en_US/products...1&model=QSD+216
Pete, I think your system is good to go, man. Good luck!
http://www.mbquart.com/2003/en_US/products...1&model=QSD+216
Pete, I think your system is good to go, man. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by Kodokan_4' date='Feb 3 2005, 10:30 PM
The electronics store ordered me the Audiobahn A4125HCT, and I just found out about the Audiobahn A1504DP which is a much better choice. The A1504DP is rated at 150W RMS @ 4ohms, and is wider horizontally. (If I mount the A4125HCT in the trunk well, it will be sideways.)
Audiobahn A1504DP:
Audiobahn A1504DP:
I was looking at this Audiobahn series as a good candidate for mounting in the area next to the spare, but got scared away by some bad reviews regarding the SQ of amps using the Tripath chips.
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^ I have never heard a good class T but would love to (and expect to) be proved wrong any time now. The technology seems like it's there but I have not heard stories of a class T competing meaningfully with a high quality class A yet. They are great for people who want tiny amps to mount under seats and put SQ second but sound quality is really my only concern.
The technology seems like it's there but I have not heard stories of a class T competing meaningfully with a high quality class A yet. They are great for people who want tiny amps to mount under seats and put SQ second but sound quality is really my only concern.
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From: Judo Town, USA
Here's the latest:
I've now decided to go with a single subwoofer, either the Audiobahn 10" AW1000Q or AW1000N (a better choice, but it isn't out, yet).
I've figured out a way to use a larger sub with the wlaurent speaker enclosure, and I'll be posting all of the details with pics as the project progresses.
Part of the difficulty with my system design is that I want to keep the spare tire intact, and still be able to use the trunkwell for tools and carrying a flat tire. This means one of the three amps will need to be located in the cabin.
I haven't made my final decision on the rear speakers and amp, and I'm now looking for a capacitor. From what I understand, a capacitor helps to reduce voltage spikes/drops (from the ICE system) to the electrical system.
Is a capacitor a necessary item on a high wattage system???
I'm starting to get really excited about the project.
I don't want to give away all of the details yet, but it involves A LOT of red vinyl and carbon fiber!
-Pete
I've now decided to go with a single subwoofer, either the Audiobahn 10" AW1000Q or AW1000N (a better choice, but it isn't out, yet).
I've figured out a way to use a larger sub with the wlaurent speaker enclosure, and I'll be posting all of the details with pics as the project progresses.
Part of the difficulty with my system design is that I want to keep the spare tire intact, and still be able to use the trunkwell for tools and carrying a flat tire. This means one of the three amps will need to be located in the cabin.
I haven't made my final decision on the rear speakers and amp, and I'm now looking for a capacitor. From what I understand, a capacitor helps to reduce voltage spikes/drops (from the ICE system) to the electrical system.
Is a capacitor a necessary item on a high wattage system???
I'm starting to get really excited about the project.
I don't want to give away all of the details yet, but it involves A LOT of red vinyl and carbon fiber!
-Pete
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Sounds awesome. Post pics when done!
A capacitor is not needed in any S2000. About a year back there was a huge discussion of all the technical merits of the stock alternator, battery, and fuses and the result of 75 posts of technical calculations and measurements was that in no case should an S2000 need a capacitor. Still, if you notice dimming in your lights go ahead and add one in. I run about 1,000 watts and have never noticed a need for a capacitor. A few people here use them, but their caps are largely for show.
A capacitor is not needed in any S2000. About a year back there was a huge discussion of all the technical merits of the stock alternator, battery, and fuses and the result of 75 posts of technical calculations and measurements was that in no case should an S2000 need a capacitor. Still, if you notice dimming in your lights go ahead and add one in. I run about 1,000 watts and have never noticed a need for a capacitor. A few people here use them, but their caps are largely for show.
